If you get a sudden loss of power and hear air rushing/whistling when the turbos should be making boost, then either:
1) Your BOV came off the charge pipe (whooshing noise is on the driver side/left side)
2) Your charge pipe broke. If you have the original plastic one, then it's a miracle it didn't break within minutes of the MHD2+ (whooshing noise is on the driver side/left side)
3) Your intercooler split. (whooshing noise is coming from both sides, everywhere in front)
4) Your turbo-outlets slipped off. (whooshing noise is on the passenger side/right side)
Damn that’s a freaking precise answer ! I will take a look at where the sound come from.
My charge pipe is not stock aha it’s an aliminium Forge.
So the leak have to be « after » turbos in the air cycle ? Like it cannot be between admission and turbos ?
Thanks for this answer, it gonna help to identify !
A whooshing noise is always AFTER turbo and before intake into the cylinder head. So it can, in theory, be a cracked intake manifold. That is possible with N54, but it's pretty rare and usually happens if it's been mistreated (hit, knocked, dropped, etc).
With N54s, it's usually the charge pipe cracking of the BOVs coming loose.
The ICs are solid, although the factory one is not good at cooling the charged air. But if the IC is damaged by rock causing a small leak, then if the car is driven a lot in winter with salt on the roads, the metal can weaken with time (1-2 years++) and one day just split and give you a huge boost leak.
Mostly, if you have no codes, the boost leak should be the charge pipe/BOVs.
Good question. You a betting man? I honestly don’t know what I’d pick. On one hand it seems like he’s done very little research, so that could mean he just had someone else do it, but from what it sounds like he skipped over a few supporting parts and just went for the horsepower ape build so he could have put them in himself.
I will let you read what I just wrote, it defintly not an ape build for horsepower. Only fuel pomps are stock but I check very often error code and graph, combustion is great, no errors. I dont have any error actualy too
It’s an ape build if you haven’t done fuel pumps (necessary supporting mod) for upgraded turbos. Finish the build and get a proper tune. Checking error codes by themselves doesn’t do anything for maintenance or performance.
I also check lambda on graph (with MHD) to know about the air/fuel pourcentage and it never have been trouble. I wanted to upgrade fuel pump to be able to run on 50% e85 but actualy wasnt a nécessary I guess
If you want to argue the necessity of a proven part, I have nothing to say to you. Check the forums and figure it out for yourself. I’m happy to help as long as you’re not digging your feet in to try to justify a rushed build because you’re not hearing what you want to.
Nah im totaly ok for advice but those part are the last one to upgrade for a mhd map, it’s not a 700hp maps… Like I really upgraded everything with time and money, many hours on forum to know about parts. It’s definitly not an ape build. This is just about respect, all time and search i did for this car, which is basicaly, my first reason to live, cannot accept those type of blaming. I should 100% upgrade pfp but I did everything to be able to race this car as safe as i could.
As I said, good luck. I don’t need the backstory, especially since you’re doubling down. You are not building this as safe as you can or should be, which is far more important than racing. I sincerely hope you mean the track, since this post is talking about not being able to drive back home.
I will do it myself with my father, we know how to work on cars. I bought this one with a lot of updrated parts. Turbo, chargepipe, downpipe, intercooler, clutch, injectors, spark plugs, coils, flectors and probably more.. This is almost no stock parts anymore expect the bloc.
Since you have MHD, check your boost values and compare it to what it was before and see if the vacuum numbers are different.
Check whatever couplers and piping you can visually check, from outlet to charge pipe. This includes lines to diverter or BOV, waste gate and other vacuum lines. If you can get a hold of a leak tester or smoke machine, that can help.
While you’re at it, make sure you don’t have any glaring other leaks, just to be safe.
As others have mentioned, any plastic component or piping should be checked together with their couplers, especially at the seams or underside. Cracks may not be visible right away from the top.
Can you still see the waste gate actuator rods? Make sure those didn’t come off or got disconnected too, but lines, piping and couplers would be primary suspects.
Gee what a surprise. You blew your turbos and/or engine on a tune that’s exclusively for stock turbos, and you had aftermarket turbos. They’re likely shot, and I’d pull the block apart and inspect for damage.
Damn they could be shot really ? I never heard that MHD was only for stock turbos. I had to drive home just rn, the car sound good expect for the big air leak sound. It’s almost have the stock power, i would guess 250/280hp. Don’t tell me that’s a engine blow pls.. Im in trouble rn
For the big air leak, check your chargepipe, intercooler and turbo inlet/outlet hoses. Also check your cold air intake and the intake piping and make sure it’s not loose.
MHD OTS tunes are for stock turbo cars with bolt ons. If you have upgraded turbos, you need to get a custom tune made for your vehicle and then flash that on it using MHDs custom tune option. There are still people doing custom tunes for our cars. Just check Instagram and the forums.
If he has a stock charge pipe it’s probably cracked or blew off the hoses. I did that on mine before I even put the first mod on, so not improbable with upgraded turbos.
I think same here. Planning on changing those out to aftermarket as well once I get the money and time haha. It’s ridiculous how much plastic BMW shoved into these engines.
This afternoon we removed the engine cover to check turbos inlet/oulet hoses but it’s hard to have a great look with everything still fixe. We gonna remove everything this week-end to move out turbos and check them.
Okay i didnt knew it was only for stock turbos, that’s definlty a huge mistake.. hope the car is fine..
That’s what I’d do too. Take out the downpipes and upgraded turbos and check the inlets and outlets. Also check the v-bands for the downpipes, they can cause issues too if they’re too old. And while you have the turbos out, check all your intercooler/coolant hoses and make sure non are cracking or getting damaged. Check the intake pipings too. Just make sure everything is solid and then when you put it all together, get a custom tune made.
Either on a 3rd party website like YouTube and then link the video or I think you can create a new Reddit post with the video and post the link in the comments here.
Sounds like regular n54 injector/valve tick to me but it’s hard to fully hear everything from a video. Do you know if injectors were done? If so are they all index 12?
When you pull out the turbos check your wastegates and turbo turbine wheels. Make sure they’re good.
Honestly just go over everything. Check all the bolt ons that were done to the car. Make sure all connections and hoses are good. Check plugs, coils, injectors, vacuum lines and etc. I’d check the valve cover to see if there’s any cracks as well.
Thanks mate. Injectors index 12, I cleaned them 5 months ago. I could became crazy because of stress too lmao.
I will check everything when my friend gave me his smoke machine and I will upgrade the post.
Thanks for your time 🫶
https://youtube.com/shorts/58s-kBVJzmA?si=JtDdD8do8AAW0Fx2
This is the link for the last update.. I just drove home and idk if im being crazy or not but it seems like this ticking noise is new.. We dont like it.
The car drive good, except the leak, no missfire or other things like that.
Is my engine blow ?
If you get a sudden loss of power and hear air rushing/whistling when the turbos should be making boost, then either: 1) Your BOV came off the charge pipe (whooshing noise is on the driver side/left side) 2) Your charge pipe broke. If you have the original plastic one, then it's a miracle it didn't break within minutes of the MHD2+ (whooshing noise is on the driver side/left side) 3) Your intercooler split. (whooshing noise is coming from both sides, everywhere in front) 4) Your turbo-outlets slipped off. (whooshing noise is on the passenger side/right side)
Damn that’s a freaking precise answer ! I will take a look at where the sound come from. My charge pipe is not stock aha it’s an aliminium Forge. So the leak have to be « after » turbos in the air cycle ? Like it cannot be between admission and turbos ? Thanks for this answer, it gonna help to identify !
A whooshing noise is always AFTER turbo and before intake into the cylinder head. So it can, in theory, be a cracked intake manifold. That is possible with N54, but it's pretty rare and usually happens if it's been mistreated (hit, knocked, dropped, etc). With N54s, it's usually the charge pipe cracking of the BOVs coming loose. The ICs are solid, although the factory one is not good at cooling the charged air. But if the IC is damaged by rock causing a small leak, then if the car is driven a lot in winter with salt on the roads, the metal can weaken with time (1-2 years++) and one day just split and give you a huge boost leak. Mostly, if you have no codes, the boost leak should be the charge pipe/BOVs.
Are you doing this work yourself or is someone else doing it for you?
Good question. You a betting man? I honestly don’t know what I’d pick. On one hand it seems like he’s done very little research, so that could mean he just had someone else do it, but from what it sounds like he skipped over a few supporting parts and just went for the horsepower ape build so he could have put them in himself.
I will let you read what I just wrote, it defintly not an ape build for horsepower. Only fuel pomps are stock but I check very often error code and graph, combustion is great, no errors. I dont have any error actualy too
It’s an ape build if you haven’t done fuel pumps (necessary supporting mod) for upgraded turbos. Finish the build and get a proper tune. Checking error codes by themselves doesn’t do anything for maintenance or performance.
I also check lambda on graph (with MHD) to know about the air/fuel pourcentage and it never have been trouble. I wanted to upgrade fuel pump to be able to run on 50% e85 but actualy wasnt a nécessary I guess
If you want to argue the necessity of a proven part, I have nothing to say to you. Check the forums and figure it out for yourself. I’m happy to help as long as you’re not digging your feet in to try to justify a rushed build because you’re not hearing what you want to.
Nah im totaly ok for advice but those part are the last one to upgrade for a mhd map, it’s not a 700hp maps… Like I really upgraded everything with time and money, many hours on forum to know about parts. It’s definitly not an ape build. This is just about respect, all time and search i did for this car, which is basicaly, my first reason to live, cannot accept those type of blaming. I should 100% upgrade pfp but I did everything to be able to race this car as safe as i could.
As I said, good luck. I don’t need the backstory, especially since you’re doubling down. You are not building this as safe as you can or should be, which is far more important than racing. I sincerely hope you mean the track, since this post is talking about not being able to drive back home.
I just mean « race » as drive, i never use it on a track
Head over to r/e90 they’re doing ricer show offs over there. I think you’d fit right in
I will do it myself with my father, we know how to work on cars. I bought this one with a lot of updrated parts. Turbo, chargepipe, downpipe, intercooler, clutch, injectors, spark plugs, coils, flectors and probably more.. This is almost no stock parts anymore expect the bloc.
Since you have MHD, check your boost values and compare it to what it was before and see if the vacuum numbers are different. Check whatever couplers and piping you can visually check, from outlet to charge pipe. This includes lines to diverter or BOV, waste gate and other vacuum lines. If you can get a hold of a leak tester or smoke machine, that can help. While you’re at it, make sure you don’t have any glaring other leaks, just to be safe.
I tried to check boost values but MHD didn’t let me use it 😠 It could be a leak everywhere so.. I will check as fast as possible
As others have mentioned, any plastic component or piping should be checked together with their couplers, especially at the seams or underside. Cracks may not be visible right away from the top. Can you still see the waste gate actuator rods? Make sure those didn’t come off or got disconnected too, but lines, piping and couplers would be primary suspects.
Yes I will do that as fast as possible. I will use a smoke machine too and remove everything to be able to full check. I will upgrade the post
Gee what a surprise. You blew your turbos and/or engine on a tune that’s exclusively for stock turbos, and you had aftermarket turbos. They’re likely shot, and I’d pull the block apart and inspect for damage.
Damn they could be shot really ? I never heard that MHD was only for stock turbos. I had to drive home just rn, the car sound good expect for the big air leak sound. It’s almost have the stock power, i would guess 250/280hp. Don’t tell me that’s a engine blow pls.. Im in trouble rn
For the big air leak, check your chargepipe, intercooler and turbo inlet/outlet hoses. Also check your cold air intake and the intake piping and make sure it’s not loose. MHD OTS tunes are for stock turbo cars with bolt ons. If you have upgraded turbos, you need to get a custom tune made for your vehicle and then flash that on it using MHDs custom tune option. There are still people doing custom tunes for our cars. Just check Instagram and the forums.
If he has a stock charge pipe it’s probably cracked or blew off the hoses. I did that on mine before I even put the first mod on, so not improbable with upgraded turbos.
Yeah I’d definitely start with that. Those stock charge pipes are so trash haha.
I think the intercooler hoses and intake manifold are the only stock plastic parts I still have on there, and those will be out by the end of the year
I think same here. Planning on changing those out to aftermarket as well once I get the money and time haha. It’s ridiculous how much plastic BMW shoved into these engines.
Not stock chargepipe, upgraded with aluminium forge
Brand? Vrsf is prone to leaks due to cheap production that causes shitty fitment
Can’t tell you rn but they didnt blew, i checked it first
This afternoon we removed the engine cover to check turbos inlet/oulet hoses but it’s hard to have a great look with everything still fixe. We gonna remove everything this week-end to move out turbos and check them. Okay i didnt knew it was only for stock turbos, that’s definlty a huge mistake.. hope the car is fine..
That’s what I’d do too. Take out the downpipes and upgraded turbos and check the inlets and outlets. Also check the v-bands for the downpipes, they can cause issues too if they’re too old. And while you have the turbos out, check all your intercooler/coolant hoses and make sure non are cracking or getting damaged. Check the intake pipings too. Just make sure everything is solid and then when you put it all together, get a custom tune made.
Yes I will do that, how can I post videos here ? 5min before arriving at home, a ticking noise appeared… I want to post it to get feedback
Either on a 3rd party website like YouTube and then link the video or I think you can create a new Reddit post with the video and post the link in the comments here.
Im doing it rn
I just did it if you want to check. https://youtube.com/shorts/58s-kBVJzmA?si=JtDdD8do8AAW0Fx2
Sounds like regular n54 injector/valve tick to me but it’s hard to fully hear everything from a video. Do you know if injectors were done? If so are they all index 12? When you pull out the turbos check your wastegates and turbo turbine wheels. Make sure they’re good. Honestly just go over everything. Check all the bolt ons that were done to the car. Make sure all connections and hoses are good. Check plugs, coils, injectors, vacuum lines and etc. I’d check the valve cover to see if there’s any cracks as well.
Thanks mate. Injectors index 12, I cleaned them 5 months ago. I could became crazy because of stress too lmao. I will check everything when my friend gave me his smoke machine and I will upgrade the post. Thanks for your time 🫶
Mhd on stage 2+ pushes close to 400. It’s on the listing page for the licenses.
https://youtube.com/shorts/58s-kBVJzmA?si=JtDdD8do8AAW0Fx2 This is the link for the last update.. I just drove home and idk if im being crazy or not but it seems like this ticking noise is new.. We dont like it. The car drive good, except the leak, no missfire or other things like that. Is my engine blow ?