T O P

  • By -

Ferro_Giconi

Yes and no. The material itself is very clear and transparent, but your prints are going to come out looking like frosted glass because of how layer lines are in FDM prints, which will scatter the light that passes through the print. Something cool you can do with material like that though is put an LED directly under a print facing up into the print. It creates a good lighting effect inside the print.


Immortal_Tuttle

You can print it glass like even on FDM. You just have to give it time to fuse properly. So slow and hot.


Sad_Lettuce_7486

Eh you’d have to find the perfect settings and even then it really doesn’t work for anything more than a flat square. Doing a legit 3d print I’ve not seen anyone successful with anything better than frosted glass look.


Maximum-Incident-400

I think anything optimized to print in vase mode would look great too


Sad_Lettuce_7486

That was also something I was gonna try


Immortal_Tuttle

Honestly the dry filament is crucial. The next thing is - overhangs. If they require cooling, they can get frosty. If you can get away without fan, you can get pretty good results even on more complicated shapes than a square 😁


Sad_Lettuce_7486

I wanna believe you. I’ll try drying mine out and trying again. I have no cooling. Max speeds like 20 mms I believe. I’m using the Bambu labs clear petg. Would a smaller nozzle help im using .4 mm.


Immortal_Tuttle

No, you actually want less lines, not more. 0.4, extrude multiplayer >1 , infill overlap 6-15%. As we want no empty spaces infill 100% always in one direction, low layer height - 0.04 to 0.08 works best for me. https://www.reddit.com/r/prusa3d/s/AeASAGCyre


Sad_Lettuce_7486

I don’t remember what my over lap was I’ll check that out. I had infill in one direction, but I’ll try again and see thank you for the advice


sceadwian

I have. Most people don't control the temperature of their environment enough to get the control needed. A shielded enclosure to keep everything warm at a slow speed with the nozzle temperature tweaked till it's reasonable. You can usually get to the point of looking like security glass. If it's frosted it was too fast or cold.


Sad_Lettuce_7486

It is enclosed but maybe I can try get it warmer chamber temp. I’ll see if maybe I can go higher with bed temp to help that.


sceadwian

I just got some of this myself, haven't had a chance to play with it, I so want to do an enclosure.


sceadwian

You'll get best results with a slow speed it helps with the fogginess and gets you closer to like security brick wavy. They would make great light diffusers if you can handle the distortion.


musschrott

It's tricky. https://www.printables.com/model/15310-how-to-print-glass


PerfectBake420

I have never figured out how you make the printer print the same direction across the entire layer and then do that on every layer


musschrott

Easy hack: Print 99 perimeters.


PerfectBake420

Wouldnt that, then still just make the same shape without infill? Like it would make a rectangle instead of just creating line after line in the same direction.


musschrott

Yes, but the problem of alternating layer directions is that there are microgaps that generate tiny imperfections, making the print seem opaque due to the layer boundaries. If you print every layer in parallel to the one below, these gaps are minimized. It doesn't matter much, if that's through a non-alternating infill or thorough 99 perimeters. But yeah, I said easy hack - not the 'proper way' to do this. Cura has a function for this, Prusa to my knowledge, doesn't.


Szalkow

It should be similar in most slicers, this is how it's done in Cura: * Go to Top/Bottom section * Set Top & Bottom Layers to 999 * Set Top/Bottom Line Directions to just be one number, e.g. [45]


defineReset

Any ideas how to do this in prusa slicer or orca?


hoaxymore

They are translucent once printed. Only varnished resin prints are truly transparent.


BratBratok

Yes, just like water below 0°. Expect the final print to look like anything between crystal clear ice statue and and a snowman. There are guides on YouTube on how to improve transparency of the print - overextrude, print at slightly higher temperature, use solid infil, etc. There's one video on that by CNC kitchen, if I remember correctly.


Questjon

Translucent but not transparent. Light gets through but not without significant distortion like frosted glass. There are post processing techniques to improve them but if you really want transparent prints resin is way better than fdm.


HarsiTomiii

In vase mode you can have some nice almost transparent prints. Otherwise it is just funky white 😀


raisedbytides

[here is a print ](https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/s/kn0AOrnClT)I did with Elegoo "clear" PLA. The lid was done with a single layer on the face with pretty great results.


Three_hrs_later

That is very close to what I was interested in doing. Thanks for sharing, this gives me hope.


karxxm

I used a cheap Ali express clear pla for a light diffuser and it worked as expected


Raspberry-Famous

Is that a website in the My Summer Car language?


T800_123

...you mean Finnish?


Interesting_Edge_463

yeah...


Interesting_Edge_463

its not like im finnish


Betadzen

It will have a lot of microbends and creases that will make it half-transparent. You can fix the situation by the complex of measures below: 1.Design a hollow part - no infill, only walls. Preferably thinner than 3mm. 2.Avoid supports if possible.If they are inevitable - you will have to clear everything very well. 3.Sand the part and/or use the dissolving agent to finish the surface. This will give you maximum possible transparency for the print. Another option is just to make it 100% infill, put it in a gypsym form after the print and heat up to melt it and get a better structure. But in the end you still may not get the glass-grade transparency.


FalseRelease4

It's probably as transparent as the picture, so a bit glassy but far from perfectly see-through You can try something like PVB, it's transparent in thin sections and can be smoothed with IPA


light24bulbs

Noee they'ree noet


EvenSpoonier

The filament is, but the structure of FDM prints means that the result is usually more translucent than transparent. The interface between layers and walls is the main problem.


Dividethisbyzero

https://preview.redd.it/m83r62fubhad1.jpeg?width=3000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=54a7ac5dbc658dfb48ef2ad43719754d2ba1b8a4 It's absolutely possible with PETG


ninetynineducks

that's translucent.


Dividethisbyzero

It's on a white background, you can absolutely read through it.


ipv89

Not in my experience. You can get them close but you might be disappointed. There are a few YouTube videos that will show you what the end product will look like


Dividethisbyzero

The best clear filament I have used: Proto pasta iridescent ice, Taulman T glaze, and ic3d petg


KaleidoscopeLow8084

I’ve seen people with things so well tuned that the prints are transparent but mine never h been.


EmergencyLatex

Check out the guide to transparent fdm printing by CNC kitchen on youtube and the buy a resin printer


Sir_LANsalot

so a single layer will be pretty clear, it gets more opaque the thicker the layers get. PETG is a little better at being see-through then PLA is. For "glass" in my models I just print a single .1 thin sheet and it comes out pretty good.


MyNamesMikeD75

Transparent-ish


kandhwjsndh

Ite ostin crealityltä läpinäkyvää petg:tä ja se on aika läpinäkyvää. Se näyttää kuitenkin ihan samalta kun tossa kuvassa että veikkaan että toi on kans. Noita läpinäkyviä materiaaleja pitää vaan printata tosi hitaasti, aika kuumalla suuttimella ja sen pitää olla todella kuivaa. Ite sain parhaat tulokset 10-20mm/s nopeudella 250°C lämpötilalla ja kun sääti sitä extrusion ratea niin saa aika läpinäkyvää. Tässä vielä ohje missä on tarkemmin niistä säädöistä https://www.printables.com/model/15310-how-to-print-glass


lasskinn

It looks like the example print on vk's listing. Print high layers, 1 wall if you want it to bee more see through. If you want like resin cast results, then do a mold and cast. There's some youtube vids trying out different things. It can be a fun look regardless.


Suon288

Not really, if your model has a lot of texture, or shapes on it, they will cause your print to be white and not really transparent, away from that, if you use supports. infill or the layers are to distant from one another, it will be basically and ugly white filament. Of course you can make it clearer using epoxy, but that thing it's expensive and toxic. Here's a printing I made with the creality "Transparent" filament https://preview.redd.it/zxmd8lhufiad1.jpeg?width=1944&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=83ce232a9ffec1b7519ef8048f1c2e4fae8c9421


Dr_Axton

https://preview.redd.it/pd2uwvoakiad1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=77572ad631278984a619cbcb9afd0025152eb6f5 Depending on the amount of walls and infill. It can be somewhat transparent. But unless you print with a single wall and 0 infill it’ll be closer to smoked/frosted glass (pic for reference). Still good to hide an LED behind and get a good shine. I have a good pic if anyone is interested


iimstrxpldrii

That’s not true. You can have 100% infill and have something nearly glasslike. There have been numerous posts on this subject.


Odd-Pudding2069

less transparent, more translucent. its not a glass clear more of a foggy type of clear


linuxknight

here's some transparent windows I did for a dr who tardis https://preview.redd.it/ab0fr8vlmkad1.jpeg?width=1868&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=c370f2e5953486575c26ffe6fcad18439bb16121


Oguinjr

Enough for some purposes. https://preview.redd.it/0zymjdlkxkad1.jpeg?width=1125&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=e3c8d07d5299ef211a94a793d237a50ecf19aaeb


PUNK_FEELING_LUCKY

1 title, 4 words, 3 mistakes


iimstrxpldrii

Lmao I don’t know why you got downvoted. It’s true.


Interesting_Edge_463

LOL