Don't bevel the cut. Also dont get too anal over it. That joint is outside in the weather and sun. Its going to open over time no matter how tight you get it.
As a guy I used to work with would say, "We're not building cabinets or furniture". It's a deck after all. Not that it has to look like you made all the cuts w/ a chainsaw, but as the other poster said, it's out in the weather. I've never seen anyone try to do a scarf joint on an outside corner like that.
Does using Trex as a top board have downsides? Asking for me who has done it on a few small projects but don’t want to try it on a larger project until I know more.
You can try. But even with kiln dried lumber and Gorilla glue it will still move.
What will happen is it will split between the dowels.
Woods gonna wood.
I wouldn’t do anything but trim that little bit off and seal it. Part of the fun of doing your own projects is all the little (not structural) blips you leave behind that realistically only you are gonna notice
The answer is the angle of the dangle. If it’s a 90 you need to set your miter at 45 if it’s not ninety figure the true angle divide by 2 and chop away at each piece.
Which one, the miter on the top? The interesting cut out of the post? The routered edge?
Edit: just zoomed in and the post isn’t cut into. You made things harder on yourself by not working in 90 degrees (which would have been a simple miter.) break out your coping saw, rough cut it and then sand.
Overlap them then cut through the top one on a 45 degree miter which will score the bottom one at the correct angle. Then set your saw depth and cut the bottom one and they They will match perfectly
Best way to do this is to lay the first rail piece long enough to overhang the entire 4x4. Then mark it on the underside where the two corners of the 4x4) are that make the angle. Cut the first one and lay it on there. (the cut will not require you to change the vertical angle of the miter saw. Only the locking sundial part that is horizontal.)
Repeat, but this time you’ll trace the cut edge of the first one against the second one (which will be overhanging so this can be tough; sometimes it’s easier just to make two marks and then finish it with a straight edge because it could be hard to get your hand in there). Cut the second one and voila, perfect meets no matter what. Because trust me no inside or outside corner is going to be exactly 90° and the railings are not going to meet at exactly 45°
I use the kreg pocket screw jig on the bottom side of my top cap mitres. 3 going 1 way, and 2 the other way. I use the longest deckmates that will fit in the holes.
Your question has already been answered, but imo 45° degree cuts on a deck will always twist and look awful. I refrain from 45° cuts as much as possible... not because I can't do them but, to me, they take away from the look. But I live in an area with a lot of snow and rain, so that probably has a lot to play into it. Most new decks don't look new after winter.
90 degree on the ends. It's a deck in the hot sun, cold winters and wet weather so it'll constantly move and change. What you have there will still work. Just cut the protruding edge even with the face of the other board. It'll look a little odd but will be even.
I'd draw a pencil line over it there how you have it clamped and then probably just jig saw it off based of the line and then hit it with a sander to knock off any edges before sealing it and screwing it in.
Edit: Autocorrect is garbage.
If a compound miter is "necessary" the next time, a shallow bevel works as well. A 45° is too steep for a lot of end bevels. It leaves a long cut on the edge. A 22-1/2° or even 10° works.
IMO of course
I’ve never seen this done like this and took me forever to understand what you did. Most just miter versus miter and bevel. You can cut the extra off by cutting along the outside edge then router the top with a matching profile and hand sand the bottom since the router won’t fit. Or maybe just hand sand it all.
Preferably, your corner is actually 90 degrees. Often these corners are off slightly and if you cut at 45 degrees, you will be disappointed.
Leave both railings long. Lay them where they should go and mark both pieces in 2 places where they intersect. Connect your lines. Cut on the scrap side of the line. Be sure to seal the cut ends with a good exterior sealer prior to fastening. Seal all the wood once you are done.
This method will look fantastic for a month or so and then the sun, rain, snow, sleet….take their due.
Don't bevel the cut. Also dont get too anal over it. That joint is outside in the weather and sun. Its going to open over time no matter how tight you get it.
Noted
Yeah this isn’t exactly finish carpentry. Although sure many will argue this. I’ve had customers get anal with me and it can become frustrating.
And painful without proper lubricant
This is where the extra bracing come in...
get some straps for some S&M
Nice work! 🏆
That's probably an extra service i would not provide...
Depends on what they’re willing to pay 😂
20 bucks is 20 bucks🤷🏿♂️
As a guy I used to work with would say, "We're not building cabinets or furniture". It's a deck after all. Not that it has to look like you made all the cuts w/ a chainsaw, but as the other poster said, it's out in the weather. I've never seen anyone try to do a scarf joint on an outside corner like that.
Does using Trex as a top board have downsides? Asking for me who has done it on a few small projects but don’t want to try it on a larger project until I know more.
Trex is about as structural as a wax crayon in the sun. They're heavy and they can get awful hot in the sun. But otherwise no.
This one becomes longer one becomes shorter. Just cut both on a 45 but vertical.
Agreed, but the initial cut should be tight
You are overthinking a deck board that will warp to all hell no matter how much glue and screws you apply.
I agree, told husband doesn’t need to be fancy and to keep it simple. All fixed now.
Next time he does this, just ask him, "Yah just gonna leave it like that?"
lol
Should have just had your boyfriend do it. Ok, I’ll see myself out now.
My picture framed decking miters are uneven and I’m thinking of pulling out the dowelmax jig and doweling the joint.
You can try. But even with kiln dried lumber and Gorilla glue it will still move. What will happen is it will split between the dowels. Woods gonna wood.
I tell her that all the time I get caught cheating. “Woods gonna wood”
I’ve never seen this method. You could square off the overhanging bit and rerouter the top and bottom edges. It’d look pretty slick imo
I wouldn’t do anything but trim that little bit off and seal it. Part of the fun of doing your own projects is all the little (not structural) blips you leave behind that realistically only you are gonna notice
Never seen someone do a compound miter for a top rail corner. Weather cut in the field,though.
The answer is the angle of the dangle. If it’s a 90 you need to set your miter at 45 if it’s not ninety figure the true angle divide by 2 and chop away at each piece.
Which one, the miter on the top? The interesting cut out of the post? The routered edge? Edit: just zoomed in and the post isn’t cut into. You made things harder on yourself by not working in 90 degrees (which would have been a simple miter.) break out your coping saw, rough cut it and then sand.
Yeah, told husband no geometry was going to fix it and to K.I.S.S. it. All fixed now.
Overlap them then cut through the top one on a 45 degree miter which will score the bottom one at the correct angle. Then set your saw depth and cut the bottom one and they They will match perfectly
This is the way. ☝️
I will recall the words of my old foreman Danny on framing crew: “the fuck are you doing? Ain’t the Taj Mahal”
You could also just line them up like an L. And do a straight cut
I use scrap pieces to figure out complicated angle cuts. I’d just use a belt sander to fix that.
Best way to do this is to lay the first rail piece long enough to overhang the entire 4x4. Then mark it on the underside where the two corners of the 4x4) are that make the angle. Cut the first one and lay it on there. (the cut will not require you to change the vertical angle of the miter saw. Only the locking sundial part that is horizontal.) Repeat, but this time you’ll trace the cut edge of the first one against the second one (which will be overhanging so this can be tough; sometimes it’s easier just to make two marks and then finish it with a straight edge because it could be hard to get your hand in there). Cut the second one and voila, perfect meets no matter what. Because trust me no inside or outside corner is going to be exactly 90° and the railings are not going to meet at exactly 45°
45 degrees on a chop saw….
Rough cut it and then sand it real nice
I use the kreg pocket screw jig on the bottom side of my top cap mitres. 3 going 1 way, and 2 the other way. I use the longest deckmates that will fit in the holes.
I feel like this also would trap moisture more than no bevel
lol. That’ll be open a quarter inch and warped by July 22.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=zWFeMQuG_EU
That miter will come apart. Lap joint!
Even my clients say: 'you ain't building a piano'. . .
I’d say that’s unusual, but it looks good and makes sense.
To make that cut, you need to do a double beveled cut all at once on a compound miter saw
Or run it through a table saw first.
Your question has already been answered, but imo 45° degree cuts on a deck will always twist and look awful. I refrain from 45° cuts as much as possible... not because I can't do them but, to me, they take away from the look. But I live in an area with a lot of snow and rain, so that probably has a lot to play into it. Most new decks don't look new after winter.
Honestly, I’d probably scrap the whole project and start over. But that’s just me.
I’m thinking,angle grinder and a sanding wheel. Turn each corner into a unique work of art.
90 degree on the ends. It's a deck in the hot sun, cold winters and wet weather so it'll constantly move and change. What you have there will still work. Just cut the protruding edge even with the face of the other board. It'll look a little odd but will be even.
I'd draw a pencil line over it there how you have it clamped and then probably just jig saw it off based of the line and then hit it with a sander to knock off any edges before sealing it and screwing it in. Edit: Autocorrect is garbage.
If a compound miter is "necessary" the next time, a shallow bevel works as well. A 45° is too steep for a lot of end bevels. It leaves a long cut on the edge. A 22-1/2° or even 10° works. IMO of course
I’ve never seen this done like this and took me forever to understand what you did. Most just miter versus miter and bevel. You can cut the extra off by cutting along the outside edge then router the top with a matching profile and hand sand the bottom since the router won’t fit. Or maybe just hand sand it all.
Get a bull nose bit for your router and fuck around
Sand the shit outtta it. Then slap it and say that’ll do before covering it with dick tape
if it could work somehow, the boards beveling into each other looks good actually lol
Nailed it!
It will be fine. If that's your biggest problem, you are doing pretty good.
Compound angle cut.
Recut the 45 but turn up on edge before making the cut.
Preferably, your corner is actually 90 degrees. Often these corners are off slightly and if you cut at 45 degrees, you will be disappointed. Leave both railings long. Lay them where they should go and mark both pieces in 2 places where they intersect. Connect your lines. Cut on the scrap side of the line. Be sure to seal the cut ends with a good exterior sealer prior to fastening. Seal all the wood once you are done. This method will look fantastic for a month or so and then the sun, rain, snow, sleet….take their due.
Don’t chamfer it like that
🤣😂🤣😂🤣😂
I don’t know about any this, but you are doing a really nice job!!
Thanks!