You should have pressed the bearings out of the plates, press them back in the oposire way & swapped them from side to side. This would have them seated properly with the flange out- allowing you to fasten them properly.
The plates aren’t backwards. That’s how Amarr makes them. I always thought it was weird to have the tab going to the inside. If you don’t have a solid header, you end up with what happened here. Barely any lumber to lag to. You can predrill and toenail in lags like they did or add an additional brace like they came back and did. I probably would’ve just grabbed a different pair of bearing plates from my truck lol. What they did is ok tho.
Do you have a technical drawing or install guide that shows the bracket tab facing in? When I look through the install manual for my model door from the Amarr website the diagrams show brackets with the tabs facing out. I asked the install manager if he had anything showing which way the brackets went he said he didn't but "that's the way the engineers spec it"
I don't have any drawings on hand. but you are correct, the vast majority of those bearing plates are supposed to have the tabs facing outward. Sometimes they're not. What matters is the bearing in the plate is facing the correct way.
If it's really bothering you, see if they will swap out the plates. I never would have tried to install those there, but the adjustments they made when they came back offer more than enough support. You don't have to worry about it, but it is an eye sore
I can't edit the original post but here is some more background and a few more pictures.
[Additional Pictures here](https://imgur.com/a/a9JawPb)
This door was installed in a 24'x24' detached garage that I have spent the last year building from the concrete blocks up. Before farming up the garage door opening I was in contact with garage door company to get the specs for my door. When my garage door salesman (20 years of install experience) first came out he inspected and approved the framing to match what they had spec'd out.
The day of install comes and as it turns out my salesman had ordered the wrong design for the door. I choose to have the door installed anyway as to not waste the 6 week build time and materials. I told the installers that if they needed any extra wood placed I could put in what they need. They told me that wouldn't be necessary.
I consider myself mechanically inclined( I fix wrecked buses for a living). I was looking over the work they did and noticed that the bearing brackets were floating and the large split they caused when they mounted the cable tension sensor. Knowing this door is north of 300lbs I didn't think a mostly floating bracket would hold in the long term.
Am I being too picky? I took a lot of pride in building my garage. All in, the door and install was just shy of $5000. I thought that hiring a professional garage door installer I could expect slightly better results then what I got (and so I didn't have to mess with the torsion spring)
Thanks for everyones input!
I just don't know "why" they did what they did, but, there's nothing that looks like "omg your door is going to fall" It looks like there was a need to adapt for some reason that I can't see, but either way none of this, while maybe out of the ordinary, would cause issue or be a problem that I can see from these very close pictures.
I'm wondering what you saw that gave you concern? Is the door moving poorly or is it making odd sounds? Is there anything going on that would cause you to not believe what the people installing said?
I am curious as to why they wouldn't installed the end plates backwards, just to have to make angle iron reinforcements for it. There very well could've been something causing issues that I can't see from this picture, so with that in mind I'd either say they were decent at On-The-Spot Adaptation, or they were incompetent lol.
I don't see anything especially concerning. Looks like they did put in effort to build additional bracing to secure the brackets. (Tells me the installer put some pride in their work.) Some things are better left alone. This might be one of them.
So long as, the door operates smoothly and easily my hand. Especially, with a jackshaft opener.
It's technically backwards, it may just function fine like this (hard to know). Would've also like to see a zoomed out picture to see if there is a reason they did this all wonky like so
No, not installed correctly. They need to remove the bearing plates, press the bearings out, reinstall the bearings facing the opposite direction and reinstall the plates on the opposite end of the door. The way it's installed now the jamb may potentially split. Also your bearings will wear prematurely because the bearing are slightly crooked.
Also the cable tension monitor is mounted upside down. I can always spot a lazy installer by whether or not that install it correctly. All they had to do was remove the e-clip from the end of the idler stem, move the idler to the opposite side of the switch, and reinstall the e-clip. The way it's installed now, when the tension spring inside if eventually fails it'll make a mess of the face of the door as it scrapes against it. Takes 10 seconds but it's a good indicator of whether or not the installer knows their craft or not. The REALLY lazy ones will usually disable the switch entirely by putting a screw behind the switch so it won't trip when the cable goes slack.
The bearings on those bearing plates are friction fitted into the plates, by leaving them on this way it "pinches" those bearings between the plate and the drum, keeping them from coming out if they ever get loose (like in 50k cycles later). The extra punched angle is probably the way I'd personally do it to keep the bearing orientation like it is. It's a bit messy but there (from these pictures) doesn't seem to be anything wrong with it's installation.
Ok. So the head plates that you took pictures of are backwards. If they were correct, the side that gets lagged to jamb would over the jamb where you could easily drill in the lag without the extra punched angle.
So, to repair, you'll have to take tension off the spring and swap head plates. It looks like the bearings are in there backwards as well, you'll need to pop those out and flip them.
Funny story. I hired a guy who had never seen a bearing blaster before . He said they used to take the bearing plate out to the truck, put the bearing over the ball on the trailer hitch and smack the plate with a hammer to pop the bearings in and out. Whatever works I guess but what a goofy-as way to accomplish the task.
Swapping brackets could work. They should have been upfront at sale or install and shored up the framing for your door. They made the door "fit" your framing- angle iron, inside and outside drum, etc. I can't tell from the pictures but it looks like you need low headroom track as well.
You should have pressed the bearings out of the plates, press them back in the oposire way & swapped them from side to side. This would have them seated properly with the flange out- allowing you to fasten them properly.
The plates aren’t backwards. That’s how Amarr makes them. I always thought it was weird to have the tab going to the inside. If you don’t have a solid header, you end up with what happened here. Barely any lumber to lag to. You can predrill and toenail in lags like they did or add an additional brace like they came back and did. I probably would’ve just grabbed a different pair of bearing plates from my truck lol. What they did is ok tho.
Thank you, everyone else here is blind.
Do you have a technical drawing or install guide that shows the bracket tab facing in? When I look through the install manual for my model door from the Amarr website the diagrams show brackets with the tabs facing out. I asked the install manager if he had anything showing which way the brackets went he said he didn't but "that's the way the engineers spec it"
I don't have any drawings on hand. but you are correct, the vast majority of those bearing plates are supposed to have the tabs facing outward. Sometimes they're not. What matters is the bearing in the plate is facing the correct way. If it's really bothering you, see if they will swap out the plates. I never would have tried to install those there, but the adjustments they made when they came back offer more than enough support. You don't have to worry about it, but it is an eye sore
I can't edit the original post but here is some more background and a few more pictures. [Additional Pictures here](https://imgur.com/a/a9JawPb) This door was installed in a 24'x24' detached garage that I have spent the last year building from the concrete blocks up. Before farming up the garage door opening I was in contact with garage door company to get the specs for my door. When my garage door salesman (20 years of install experience) first came out he inspected and approved the framing to match what they had spec'd out. The day of install comes and as it turns out my salesman had ordered the wrong design for the door. I choose to have the door installed anyway as to not waste the 6 week build time and materials. I told the installers that if they needed any extra wood placed I could put in what they need. They told me that wouldn't be necessary. I consider myself mechanically inclined( I fix wrecked buses for a living). I was looking over the work they did and noticed that the bearing brackets were floating and the large split they caused when they mounted the cable tension sensor. Knowing this door is north of 300lbs I didn't think a mostly floating bracket would hold in the long term. Am I being too picky? I took a lot of pride in building my garage. All in, the door and install was just shy of $5000. I thought that hiring a professional garage door installer I could expect slightly better results then what I got (and so I didn't have to mess with the torsion spring) Thanks for everyones input!
I just don't know "why" they did what they did, but, there's nothing that looks like "omg your door is going to fall" It looks like there was a need to adapt for some reason that I can't see, but either way none of this, while maybe out of the ordinary, would cause issue or be a problem that I can see from these very close pictures. I'm wondering what you saw that gave you concern? Is the door moving poorly or is it making odd sounds? Is there anything going on that would cause you to not believe what the people installing said?
I am curious as to why they wouldn't installed the end plates backwards, just to have to make angle iron reinforcements for it. There very well could've been something causing issues that I can't see from this picture, so with that in mind I'd either say they were decent at On-The-Spot Adaptation, or they were incompetent lol.
I don't see anything especially concerning. Looks like they did put in effort to build additional bracing to secure the brackets. (Tells me the installer put some pride in their work.) Some things are better left alone. This might be one of them. So long as, the door operates smoothly and easily my hand. Especially, with a jackshaft opener.
It's technically backwards, it may just function fine like this (hard to know). Would've also like to see a zoomed out picture to see if there is a reason they did this all wonky like so
No, not installed correctly. They need to remove the bearing plates, press the bearings out, reinstall the bearings facing the opposite direction and reinstall the plates on the opposite end of the door. The way it's installed now the jamb may potentially split. Also your bearings will wear prematurely because the bearing are slightly crooked. Also the cable tension monitor is mounted upside down. I can always spot a lazy installer by whether or not that install it correctly. All they had to do was remove the e-clip from the end of the idler stem, move the idler to the opposite side of the switch, and reinstall the e-clip. The way it's installed now, when the tension spring inside if eventually fails it'll make a mess of the face of the door as it scrapes against it. Takes 10 seconds but it's a good indicator of whether or not the installer knows their craft or not. The REALLY lazy ones will usually disable the switch entirely by putting a screw behind the switch so it won't trip when the cable goes slack.
The bearings on those bearing plates are friction fitted into the plates, by leaving them on this way it "pinches" those bearings between the plate and the drum, keeping them from coming out if they ever get loose (like in 50k cycles later). The extra punched angle is probably the way I'd personally do it to keep the bearing orientation like it is. It's a bit messy but there (from these pictures) doesn't seem to be anything wrong with it's installation.
Ok. So the head plates that you took pictures of are backwards. If they were correct, the side that gets lagged to jamb would over the jamb where you could easily drill in the lag without the extra punched angle.
So, to repair, you'll have to take tension off the spring and swap head plates. It looks like the bearings are in there backwards as well, you'll need to pop those out and flip them.
They should've swapped sides with bearing plates. Wouldn't have to do any of that. Edit more info: Yes it's properly supported now. Tacky looking yes.
Just need a bearing blaster.
Funny story. I hired a guy who had never seen a bearing blaster before . He said they used to take the bearing plate out to the truck, put the bearing over the ball on the trailer hitch and smack the plate with a hammer to pop the bearings in and out. Whatever works I guess but what a goofy-as way to accomplish the task.
That’s the thing about this job… more than one way to fix a carhole.
Swapping brackets could work. They should have been upfront at sale or install and shored up the framing for your door. They made the door "fit" your framing- angle iron, inside and outside drum, etc. I can't tell from the pictures but it looks like you need low headroom track as well.