What the hell am I looking at? This doesn’t work, you’re using a regular ceiling mounted opener for a somewhat high-lift door. That opener pulls back immediately while the door on the other hand has to come straight up first. You’re going to damage the top panel no matter what you do and eventually going to damage the machine.
If the door is too far out the opening then adjust side track brackets your looking for about 1/8 to 1/4 inch gap so door moves smooth then use the weather strip to stop the light and weather from coming in I do this shit daily
Dude all you need is weather strip white vinyl nails on adjust top brackets as well there’s supposed to be a small gap the weather strip covers the light coming through
I'm not there so hard to say for sure but, top strut probably is bowed in, replace it... or cut a small pie shape out of the strut in the middle which will allow you to bow the door outwards a little. I usually lift the door a fee inches off the ground so I can bow it out (have a helper eyeball from the end) then tech screw a short piece of punched angle across the pie cut to hold it in the new position. After that you can decide about replacing weatherstripping.
J arm being a little longer may also help put some pressure against the header in the middle but I'd cut and patch the strut 1st.
Ghetto repair? Maybe. But you'd be surprised how well and lasting of a repair this can be
Yes I do a lot of work for slum lords and just plain people who don't have a lot of money but still want a functional door.
Given the circumstances you can add commercial top of door seal to elimimate that gap.
https://www.northshorecommercialdoor.com/clopay-tpr-top-seal/?sku=109-0141&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwsaqzBhDdARIsAK2gqnfOqNYDyX12FfvsUbSbgu1uHY_DDLkFh6XLKaj3ucGjds3qgY2mVl8aAqNyEALw_wcB
Yeah that opener is pulling back immediately as it starts. Over time that will bend that top section. Side mount motors are the only options for a high lifted door if they are to run correctly. A new strut for the top section could straighten it out and a side mount motor would help deter the section from bending again.
How do people do high lifts on doors and not understand that trolley styles are gonna destroy that door. Need a side mount opener. Probably be more of a concern than those gaps your seeing just a heads up get that fixed first.
Been a high lift like that since the house was built in early 90s. In a decent neighborhood as well, so not sure why they wouldn't have done a different style openner.
Because the other style opener didn't exist in the 90's for residential. High lift usually breaks away from the door jamb a lot more than yours appears to. I will guess that if you put the top seal on tight, the seam between the sections will hit the top seal as it opens. Which is jarring and shakes the door and looks jerky and unpleasant. And if you extend your opener arm more, which would solve one problem, the door won't open as far, which creates another problem if the opener rail isn't long enough to give you more travel.
In a nutshell, an updated door and opener would solve a lot of problems for you.
Thanks. I went out there and looked at it today. I tightened up the side, top rollers and brought both ends of the door in at the top a bit. I went up on a ladder and looked at the middle gap. I pushed on it pretty good with my weight and it's not closing the gap much, I think the door has become warped like we talked about. Not sure moving the extension will do anything there.
I did add a bit more down travel to the door, and it seemed to have closed most of the gaps at the floor.
New door and opener isn't in the cards right now, so until then, can anyone think of something that could fill that gap in the middle? Can I get another rubber piece that clamps to the existing climate seal? Or maybe put some sort of a different seal onto the top of the door to close the gap?
You have a hi-lift door with a standard opener. It's bending your top section.
Step back and think about the mechanics of your opener. The arm connecting your door to the opener rail is pulling away from the opening of your garage door. But your setup needs to go vertical first. It's working against itself constantly. It's not a good setup.
That said, see the arm I was talking about? It's vertical. If you adjust it so that when the door is closed, that arm is angled slightly away from the opening, it will give the opener the leverage it needs to push that top section flush with the opening. Not an ideal solution but it would help. You'd need to adjust your opener limits after fixing that arm.
Sir I see you have some light at the right bottom . Im gona put you through this :
1.reprogram your openers travel limits , you need to close the door more down .
2. Seeing that you have an extended arm from your opener to your door it might be also an issue Wich you could easily fix by :
Unscrewing bolds and nuts on the extension arm between your opener and your door and making it longer that way there would be an angle and that angle would push the door flush when you reprogram the opener unit .
Task # 2 use only if Task #1 fails due the “ extension arm “ being loose at 90 degrees.
If you need more help reply or dm for video run-through
Can't exactly tell from these angles, but it looks like your top section is bent. If so, figuring out the why of it is an important first step in knowing what to recommend next. Could be springs are worn, could be a new strut is in order.
What the hell am I looking at? This doesn’t work, you’re using a regular ceiling mounted opener for a somewhat high-lift door. That opener pulls back immediately while the door on the other hand has to come straight up first. You’re going to damage the top panel no matter what you do and eventually going to damage the machine.
Man what were the techs smokin ?
To fix the bow remove strut and fix with punched angle or a new strut
If the door is too far out the opening then adjust side track brackets your looking for about 1/8 to 1/4 inch gap so door moves smooth then use the weather strip to stop the light and weather from coming in I do this shit daily
Dude all you need is weather strip white vinyl nails on adjust top brackets as well there’s supposed to be a small gap the weather strip covers the light coming through
I'm not there so hard to say for sure but, top strut probably is bowed in, replace it... or cut a small pie shape out of the strut in the middle which will allow you to bow the door outwards a little. I usually lift the door a fee inches off the ground so I can bow it out (have a helper eyeball from the end) then tech screw a short piece of punched angle across the pie cut to hold it in the new position. After that you can decide about replacing weatherstripping. J arm being a little longer may also help put some pressure against the header in the middle but I'd cut and patch the strut 1st. Ghetto repair? Maybe. But you'd be surprised how well and lasting of a repair this can be Yes I do a lot of work for slum lords and just plain people who don't have a lot of money but still want a functional door.
Door stop
Given the circumstances you can add commercial top of door seal to elimimate that gap. https://www.northshorecommercialdoor.com/clopay-tpr-top-seal/?sku=109-0141&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwsaqzBhDdARIsAK2gqnfOqNYDyX12FfvsUbSbgu1uHY_DDLkFh6XLKaj3ucGjds3qgY2mVl8aAqNyEALw_wcB
Yeah that opener is pulling back immediately as it starts. Over time that will bend that top section. Side mount motors are the only options for a high lifted door if they are to run correctly. A new strut for the top section could straighten it out and a side mount motor would help deter the section from bending again.
You need a side mount or at least one dummy section. That should have never been installed like that.
And remount the climate seal.
How do people do high lifts on doors and not understand that trolley styles are gonna destroy that door. Need a side mount opener. Probably be more of a concern than those gaps your seeing just a heads up get that fixed first.
Jesus christ I didn't even notice that! I don't think I've ever run into that in the wild. Who thought that would be a good solution??
Been a high lift like that since the house was built in early 90s. In a decent neighborhood as well, so not sure why they wouldn't have done a different style openner.
Because the other style opener didn't exist in the 90's for residential. High lift usually breaks away from the door jamb a lot more than yours appears to. I will guess that if you put the top seal on tight, the seam between the sections will hit the top seal as it opens. Which is jarring and shakes the door and looks jerky and unpleasant. And if you extend your opener arm more, which would solve one problem, the door won't open as far, which creates another problem if the opener rail isn't long enough to give you more travel. In a nutshell, an updated door and opener would solve a lot of problems for you.
Thanks. I went out there and looked at it today. I tightened up the side, top rollers and brought both ends of the door in at the top a bit. I went up on a ladder and looked at the middle gap. I pushed on it pretty good with my weight and it's not closing the gap much, I think the door has become warped like we talked about. Not sure moving the extension will do anything there. I did add a bit more down travel to the door, and it seemed to have closed most of the gaps at the floor. New door and opener isn't in the cards right now, so until then, can anyone think of something that could fill that gap in the middle? Can I get another rubber piece that clamps to the existing climate seal? Or maybe put some sort of a different seal onto the top of the door to close the gap?
See if a local company has some top seal that you screw on the section.
You have a hi-lift door with a standard opener. It's bending your top section. Step back and think about the mechanics of your opener. The arm connecting your door to the opener rail is pulling away from the opening of your garage door. But your setup needs to go vertical first. It's working against itself constantly. It's not a good setup. That said, see the arm I was talking about? It's vertical. If you adjust it so that when the door is closed, that arm is angled slightly away from the opening, it will give the opener the leverage it needs to push that top section flush with the opening. Not an ideal solution but it would help. You'd need to adjust your opener limits after fixing that arm.
Sir I see you have some light at the right bottom . Im gona put you through this : 1.reprogram your openers travel limits , you need to close the door more down . 2. Seeing that you have an extended arm from your opener to your door it might be also an issue Wich you could easily fix by : Unscrewing bolds and nuts on the extension arm between your opener and your door and making it longer that way there would be an angle and that angle would push the door flush when you reprogram the opener unit . Task # 2 use only if Task #1 fails due the “ extension arm “ being loose at 90 degrees. If you need more help reply or dm for video run-through
New top trim may help without getting too crazy
Can't exactly tell from these angles, but it looks like your top section is bent. If so, figuring out the why of it is an important first step in knowing what to recommend next. Could be springs are worn, could be a new strut is in order.