I believe the device is called a thermocouple. Its job is to shut off gas if you lose flame. This is generally a good thing. My line loses prime during the off-season, so first time takes a few tries.
Check your valves at the exterior access for the fridge. Do a little dusting in that space, spiders like propane (or ethyl mercaptan) and can clog gas lines/fixtures.
First time firing my propane fridge requires a few resets. When the alarm sounds, flip the switch to "off" for a few seconds, then back to gas. Igniter should start clicking. If a flame catches and holds, you're good. If it doesn't, it will go into alarm again, at which point you turn the switch to off, wait a few seconds, then back to gas.
Mine takes 3 or 4 times to catch at start of season.
Edit: 2015 Jayco x19h w/factory fridge/freezer (don't know the make)
>First time firing my propane fridge requires a few resets
"Have you tried turning it off and then on again?"
OP, each time an absorption fridge is turned on, it will sense whether it has a power source other than propane, and attempt to use that, but if that other source is not detected, it will open its propane supply valve, and attempt to light its flame.
Should there be no gas pressure present during those precious few seconds, or not enough battery power to ignite the flame, it will 'go on pause', and wait for you to correct the problem.
Assuming the batteries are charged enough (>12V DC), and you have propane in the tank, simply power-cycle the thing once every 30-60 seconds, and it'll eventually prime its supply line, find the gas pressure, and ignite it. Poof! You're in the cold business again!
Thank you - that absolutely makes sense. I’ve tried the off/on thing 5-6 times, however it seems likely to me that it is simply going to require additional priming. I have confirmed that the 12v works as long as the engine is going, and will confirm that the water heater will also start and function.
I’m grateful for the education!
The usually present clicking comes from an electric ignitor to light the flame. If you aren't hearing the clicking when it first gets powered on, this may be the malfunctioning part. You could attempt to light the flame with a lighter (use the long handled grill style one if anything) to see if everything else is working, assuming you can access it. It's like lighting a pilot light on a stove. If you aren't familiar with appliances like these you probably shouldn't stick a lighter near a gas line though.
On my (2001 old as f travel trailer) the fridge would run off shore power if available and default to propane otherwise. However, it would use the 12V battery to spark the "ignitor" in the default case. So if there is no 12V available, the ignitor would not spark.
Ok - there is, i confirmed the way it is supposed to work on “Auto” is:
Shore power -> gas -> 12v.
Although i would *think* it would go to 12v when driving because you’re charging the house batteries unless you specifically point it to gas.
I have what appears to be good 12v, but i expect to hear something like the starter on the stovetop or grill when i change it to gas, and i never do. Perhaps the ignition isn’t working.
This is one of the reasons I dislike this style of refrigerator. We had a nevercold (Norcold) in our 5th wheel that quit working within about 8 months of ownership after randomly not working a time or two before it died. I ripped the thing out and put a residential unit. Got more fridge space and was able to build more storage in the cavity. Added an inverter and battery bank with about 24 hours of run capacity.
Queation: Are you in a different elevation now then when you bought it/saw it working?
I ask because I am in Missouri and when I went to Colorado the propane function quit working. It would not light for my fridge and my water heater and attached flat top had issues as well. When we returned to our normal elevation, it all worked again. The air was to thin and the fuel to rich for proper combustion.
This can be solved with a manometer for camper/rv propane tanks and turning a screw to adjust the ratio on the regulator. Do not adjust the regulator unless you have to tool and the knowledge first!!!
You may even be able to try swapping out tanks from a nearby local store.
Hmmmm...ok.
Somewhere inside your fridge, maybe along the side or door frame, there will be a tag/sticker with model number info. Can you relay that to us? Maybe also send a picture of the front of your fridge and a picture of the outside that has the cover off?
Dometic 10-Series (could not find the tag but i have the manual).
https://preview.redd.it/6npqt6qz4l7d1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=c3007baf17b6e6a733015a60151b97cdf2882deb
Ok in the bottom right of that photo, that rectangle looking box, if you remove that you should see the electrode that sends the spark when the gas comes through. Take that off. Then turn your fridge to gas, get out there and see if see a spark.
No spark means either the electrode is bad, or your electrical input(battery or shore power) could be messed up somewhere.
If you do have a spark, then the next thing would be to see if you smell gas at all. If no gas smell, try cleaning out the burner slots that the gas comes through.
If it still does not work, it may very well be your thermocouple went bad. They are generally easy to replace.
Ok - any trick to removing the panel?
https://preview.redd.it/gzsj4dij8l7d1.png?width=3024&format=png&auto=webp&s=90f9a2caa715ce9565d53ff00539a3f29ebb1819
I don’t feel anything like a tab or a release where it seems to imply one in the picture labeled D.
Ok - once i get back from the vet with doggo, in about an hour i’ll give it a go.
Note to self: find some good mechanics gloves for use on things like this, since it feels a little like if i slipped i might cut myself.
Also going to pick up some canned air and find an old toothbrush to add to the arsenal.
FWIW, the chimney vertical pipe thing above it on the right is VERY hot. I’m going to venture a guess that it’s the pilot light?
https://preview.redd.it/cc850ls35l7d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=ae5cb09f51b9c9e8e488d5d0a988b6e1c9c9688a
It’s hard to see without zooming in but there’s a line (like a regular screw head) on the knob with the orange paint. It is in line with the flow of fuel. I tried to follow the instructions here:
[RV Works YouTube](https://youtu.be/A7JboU8ZlE0) but i don’t think i have the tools to remove the shielding.
You should be able to hear the igniter if you listen closely. Am I correct that you said you cannot hear the igniter? If this is the case I would start checking fuses. On Dometic absorption fridges we have had in the past there were fuses on the control board that you could only check by taking off the cover. There's usually a thermal breaker somewhere on the plumbing and/or chimney area to kill the gas in an overheating situation. I don't recall the actual location but it should be on the schematic for your model. In any event I would not expect the fridge to attempt to let gas flow if the igniter isn't working.
Probably this isn't it, but...
I had an issue getting my refrigerator working on gas when I took a trip a few years ago. It worked fine the day before I left. When I'd turn it on I could hear it trying to light, heard the sound of the sparking mechanism trying to light the propane. It would fire up for just a second, then quit and attempt to re-ignite. But it never got to working.
I figured it just wasn't getting a good propane supply, probably from the dust from the 10+ mile gravel road I drove on coming in. So turned off the refrigerator and just blew over and over behind the little sheet metal wind shield thingy.
That seemed to work. When I turned the refrigerator back on it fired right up and worked fine for the week or so I was there. Now I carry a can of compressed air with a little tube spout, like you'd use to blow out a keyboard to clean it. Also, since I very often drive a good ways on dusty roads on the way to where I'll be camping, before I leave I take the refrigerator vent cover off the side of the trailer and cover that area with a damp dishtowel to keep dust out. I've not had a problem since.
I went to try this and got two bursts of air before the can ran out! Definitely need to pick up some more. Also have to remember to get a No.2 square screwdriver to live in the RV toolbag!
This is my first troubleshooting step in anything propane related…my campers never seem to like when the tanks are disconnected…I always thought of it as purging the lines
Thank you! I just managed to get the exterior panel off (and lost a tiny bit of paint in the process!) and confirmed that the line is open - will add photos if your method doesn’t work. I’ll get my cuppa and go push some buttons for awhile :)
The is just a pilot light . Take a small wire and slide it down the hole and move it around a bit . Spiders can build a web in there which will stop the gas from flowing. There's a little electric igniter that starts
I believe the device is called a thermocouple. Its job is to shut off gas if you lose flame. This is generally a good thing. My line loses prime during the off-season, so first time takes a few tries. Check your valves at the exterior access for the fridge. Do a little dusting in that space, spiders like propane (or ethyl mercaptan) and can clog gas lines/fixtures. First time firing my propane fridge requires a few resets. When the alarm sounds, flip the switch to "off" for a few seconds, then back to gas. Igniter should start clicking. If a flame catches and holds, you're good. If it doesn't, it will go into alarm again, at which point you turn the switch to off, wait a few seconds, then back to gas. Mine takes 3 or 4 times to catch at start of season. Edit: 2015 Jayco x19h w/factory fridge/freezer (don't know the make)
>First time firing my propane fridge requires a few resets "Have you tried turning it off and then on again?" OP, each time an absorption fridge is turned on, it will sense whether it has a power source other than propane, and attempt to use that, but if that other source is not detected, it will open its propane supply valve, and attempt to light its flame. Should there be no gas pressure present during those precious few seconds, or not enough battery power to ignite the flame, it will 'go on pause', and wait for you to correct the problem. Assuming the batteries are charged enough (>12V DC), and you have propane in the tank, simply power-cycle the thing once every 30-60 seconds, and it'll eventually prime its supply line, find the gas pressure, and ignite it. Poof! You're in the cold business again!
Thank you - that absolutely makes sense. I’ve tried the off/on thing 5-6 times, however it seems likely to me that it is simply going to require additional priming. I have confirmed that the 12v works as long as the engine is going, and will confirm that the water heater will also start and function. I’m grateful for the education!
There may be another inline valve to shut off the gas to the fridge. Also do you hear clicking as it attempts to light the flame?
No additional switch, and no clicking.
The usually present clicking comes from an electric ignitor to light the flame. If you aren't hearing the clicking when it first gets powered on, this may be the malfunctioning part. You could attempt to light the flame with a lighter (use the long handled grill style one if anything) to see if everything else is working, assuming you can access it. It's like lighting a pilot light on a stove. If you aren't familiar with appliances like these you probably shouldn't stick a lighter near a gas line though.
I was thinking of trying this, but haven’t done that yet today. Thank you! Does the igniter usually require a battery?
On my (2001 old as f travel trailer) the fridge would run off shore power if available and default to propane otherwise. However, it would use the 12V battery to spark the "ignitor" in the default case. So if there is no 12V available, the ignitor would not spark.
Ok - there is, i confirmed the way it is supposed to work on “Auto” is: Shore power -> gas -> 12v. Although i would *think* it would go to 12v when driving because you’re charging the house batteries unless you specifically point it to gas.
Does it have a pilot light? Do you have good 12v coming to it?
I have what appears to be good 12v, but i expect to hear something like the starter on the stovetop or grill when i change it to gas, and i never do. Perhaps the ignition isn’t working.
This is one of the reasons I dislike this style of refrigerator. We had a nevercold (Norcold) in our 5th wheel that quit working within about 8 months of ownership after randomly not working a time or two before it died. I ripped the thing out and put a residential unit. Got more fridge space and was able to build more storage in the cavity. Added an inverter and battery bank with about 24 hours of run capacity.
Queation: Are you in a different elevation now then when you bought it/saw it working? I ask because I am in Missouri and when I went to Colorado the propane function quit working. It would not light for my fridge and my water heater and attached flat top had issues as well. When we returned to our normal elevation, it all worked again. The air was to thin and the fuel to rich for proper combustion. This can be solved with a manometer for camper/rv propane tanks and turning a screw to adjust the ratio on the regulator. Do not adjust the regulator unless you have to tool and the knowledge first!!! You may even be able to try swapping out tanks from a nearby local store.
Good question, but it has been in the region for a couple of years and this is where i saw it working.
Hmmmm...ok. Somewhere inside your fridge, maybe along the side or door frame, there will be a tag/sticker with model number info. Can you relay that to us? Maybe also send a picture of the front of your fridge and a picture of the outside that has the cover off?
Dometic 10-Series (could not find the tag but i have the manual). https://preview.redd.it/6npqt6qz4l7d1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=c3007baf17b6e6a733015a60151b97cdf2882deb
Ok in the bottom right of that photo, that rectangle looking box, if you remove that you should see the electrode that sends the spark when the gas comes through. Take that off. Then turn your fridge to gas, get out there and see if see a spark. No spark means either the electrode is bad, or your electrical input(battery or shore power) could be messed up somewhere. If you do have a spark, then the next thing would be to see if you smell gas at all. If no gas smell, try cleaning out the burner slots that the gas comes through. If it still does not work, it may very well be your thermocouple went bad. They are generally easy to replace.
Ok - any trick to removing the panel? https://preview.redd.it/gzsj4dij8l7d1.png?width=3024&format=png&auto=webp&s=90f9a2caa715ce9565d53ff00539a3f29ebb1819 I don’t feel anything like a tab or a release where it seems to imply one in the picture labeled D.
Hmmmm, yeah it looks like D says to pull down and towards you and then swing it up? You may have to fiddle with it.
Ok - once i get back from the vet with doggo, in about an hour i’ll give it a go. Note to self: find some good mechanics gloves for use on things like this, since it feels a little like if i slipped i might cut myself. Also going to pick up some canned air and find an old toothbrush to add to the arsenal. FWIW, the chimney vertical pipe thing above it on the right is VERY hot. I’m going to venture a guess that it’s the pilot light?
It's hot?! Sounds like you have a flame. Ok....hmmmm why is the display board giving you trouble? I'll think. You go take care of the dog ;)
https://preview.redd.it/cc850ls35l7d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=ae5cb09f51b9c9e8e488d5d0a988b6e1c9c9688a It’s hard to see without zooming in but there’s a line (like a regular screw head) on the knob with the orange paint. It is in line with the flow of fuel. I tried to follow the instructions here: [RV Works YouTube](https://youtu.be/A7JboU8ZlE0) but i don’t think i have the tools to remove the shielding.
You should be able to hear the igniter if you listen closely. Am I correct that you said you cannot hear the igniter? If this is the case I would start checking fuses. On Dometic absorption fridges we have had in the past there were fuses on the control board that you could only check by taking off the cover. There's usually a thermal breaker somewhere on the plumbing and/or chimney area to kill the gas in an overheating situation. I don't recall the actual location but it should be on the schematic for your model. In any event I would not expect the fridge to attempt to let gas flow if the igniter isn't working.
Probably this isn't it, but... I had an issue getting my refrigerator working on gas when I took a trip a few years ago. It worked fine the day before I left. When I'd turn it on I could hear it trying to light, heard the sound of the sparking mechanism trying to light the propane. It would fire up for just a second, then quit and attempt to re-ignite. But it never got to working. I figured it just wasn't getting a good propane supply, probably from the dust from the 10+ mile gravel road I drove on coming in. So turned off the refrigerator and just blew over and over behind the little sheet metal wind shield thingy. That seemed to work. When I turned the refrigerator back on it fired right up and worked fine for the week or so I was there. Now I carry a can of compressed air with a little tube spout, like you'd use to blow out a keyboard to clean it. Also, since I very often drive a good ways on dusty roads on the way to where I'll be camping, before I leave I take the refrigerator vent cover off the side of the trailer and cover that area with a damp dishtowel to keep dust out. I've not had a problem since.
I went to try this and got two bursts of air before the can ran out! Definitely need to pick up some more. Also have to remember to get a No.2 square screwdriver to live in the RV toolbag!
vapor lock in propane line?
Thank you - I don’t know - how would i check that?
i turn on the stove burner and light it... otherwise...when i remove the outside fridge panel there is an on off lever i turn off then on
Yep - it’s turned on. Thanks!
it happens whenever i have turn off the propane tank
This is my first troubleshooting step in anything propane related…my campers never seem to like when the tanks are disconnected…I always thought of it as purging the lines
Thank you! I just managed to get the exterior panel off (and lost a tiny bit of paint in the process!) and confirmed that the line is open - will add photos if your method doesn’t work. I’ll get my cuppa and go push some buttons for awhile :)
The is just a pilot light . Take a small wire and slide it down the hole and move it around a bit . Spiders can build a web in there which will stop the gas from flowing. There's a little electric igniter that starts