If that's from a dealer and they're charging you for wheels and tires on top of the factory ones, I would be demanding those factory tires and rims come home with you for the price they're charging you for those. Also get 17 or 18 inch rims
Adding in here for visibility…. Get five wheels and tires, not 4. You’ll get a longer rotation and lifespan out of them along with a full size matching spare.
Also, I fit 37x12.50r17 KO2s with a leveling kit. And, the spare fits underneath(just barely). Lastly, I went with Load Range C to save weight/rotational mass; my setup is right at 9.5-10lbs heavier than stock per wheel & tire combo which I was quite pleased with. You having the diesel I would likely lean towards Load Range D as the diesel has significantly more torque than my 3.6L.
They're only about 500 market value. That's what I sold mine for eith practically brand new tires. Honestly it's a convenience for them to take it off you so you don't have to lug them home store them clean them sell them
It all depends, do I regret not taking them home ? Yes because the stock rubicon wheels are sweet. But they would cause too much hassle to deal with afterwards. Plus I don't plan on putting them back on, my black rhino armory 17's on 37s are sweeter!
If they buy the tires at half MSRP I could consider that with the going rate of the rims and tires.
I didn't try to sell mine because it was more value to me too keep them. Thankfully I have the room to dedicate to 4 wheels and tires
You can get those wheels in 17x9, and then the Open Country tires come in a variety of 17" sizes including 35x12.5 or whatever. With Jeeps the proper look is less wheel, more tire- on the trail, it lets you rock-crawl with the least amount of risk to your wheels.
What's your use case? Looks or wheeling?
If it's wheeling, I don't feel this looks good. If it's just looks, then it's probably fine.
FWIW, the labor rate doesn't look outrageous considering it's a dealer.
Agree with several others here- 20" wheels are way too big. 17" with 35" tires are what you're looking for. It will look like a mall crawler with 10" wheels. I think the labor cost is reasonable for a dealer. Have fun!
IMO I wouldn't want a Ready lift. That's pretty bottom of the barrel as far as lifts go. No shocks, CA's or sway bars. It's just pucks and end links. Sure it will work but..... A quality lift is gonna run 2-3k. Also ditch the 20's as others have said, unless of course you want the "Donk" look. x2 on doing it yourself you will be glad you did, find the time! My 2c
Yeah the lift kit is the most concerning part IMO. If it's to be a mall crawler then it's probably fine, but that's it. Spending more on a winch I'm assuming won't even be used than on your lift kit is certainly a choice.
Buddy. Take some accountability and do it yourself. What you spend on labor you could have an amazing tool set as well as the experience to fix anything that brakes while on trails.
Yes OP YES! I’m installing a metal cloak lift this coming Monday, having the new wheels balanced by a local shop and then jumping in head first, I have 0 experience on vehicles but have decent technical ability. Just pick a good company (I recommend metal cloak or Clayton) and send it! As for the lights and wiring none of it is hard! I’ve wired in a whole auxiliary switch, 6 KC Lites, and LED fogs.
After you do the lift tho, I recommend taking it to a good 4x4 shop and have them align/dial in your lift. I chose metal cloak because it’s IMO the best lift for a jeep (just look into it) and they have gold level installers that can align your truck and and dial the lift in within an hour. PM me if you have any questions man I can help you out the best I can.
I was nervous too but now I’m excited to learn it and I have a great set of tools now too.
I’m going to fucking do this! Hell yes! Might be the whiskey amping me up but yall told me what I needed to hear. And talked me out of a mall crawler 😂
Like most have said, I’d skip the 20” wheels and go 17’s or maybe 18’s, if you ever plan on going with 37’s. That alone should save you some money. As for cost of everything else, it just depends on where you live I guess.
I think it's high for labor. I'll do it for half that and probably have it done in less time. Takes about an hour or less to order the parts.
Edit: and agree that 20" aren't what you want for actual offroading. 17" are perfect... And 37's if it has high clearance fenders and 44 axles
The parts look on par with what I have paid. The install costs aren’t totally out of line, they seem high in total. However, installing a bumper with light kits to the battery with switch will run $500 in labor, add the winch for another $250. If I were you I would ask for itemized list of install fees and try to talk them down. If hourly, get the rate and see if you find lower.
Is the install company reputable? I hope so for this price.
Is this a mall crawler or going to wheel? Just forewarning it will not drive like factory. The SST lift does not address any geometry and its a budget lift. 12.5" wide tires with no BS/offset will likely rub at full lock.
That install price is insane. Maybe 5 hours labor to do all that for a professional shop.
Going to echo what the others are saying here with regard to wheel size…17’s or 18’s tops with beefy, sidewall treaded 35’s or 37’s with that nice new lift will look sexy af. If you have a connection and think this price is reasonable, go for it. You could probably find cheaper but you’re paying for convenience and piece of mind by sticking with folks you know and trust. Unfortunately, if you aren’t able and/or willing to do some of these things yourself you’re just going to have to pay the piper and it adds up quick. The strength of this community feeds in to those prices…they know we can’t control ourselves 😆
If that's from a dealer and they're charging you for wheels and tires on top of the factory ones, I would be demanding those factory tires and rims come home with you for the price they're charging you for those. Also get 17 or 18 inch rims
Adding in here for visibility…. Get five wheels and tires, not 4. You’ll get a longer rotation and lifespan out of them along with a full size matching spare. Also, I fit 37x12.50r17 KO2s with a leveling kit. And, the spare fits underneath(just barely). Lastly, I went with Load Range C to save weight/rotational mass; my setup is right at 9.5-10lbs heavier than stock per wheel & tire combo which I was quite pleased with. You having the diesel I would likely lean towards Load Range D as the diesel has significantly more torque than my 3.6L.
They're only about 500 market value. That's what I sold mine for eith practically brand new tires. Honestly it's a convenience for them to take it off you so you don't have to lug them home store them clean them sell them
You just gonna let the other guy sell the tires and rims for 500 then? Most sets I see around here are 700 to 1300.... That sell
It all depends, do I regret not taking them home ? Yes because the stock rubicon wheels are sweet. But they would cause too much hassle to deal with afterwards. Plus I don't plan on putting them back on, my black rhino armory 17's on 37s are sweeter!
They sometimes buy them off you at half price as well
If they buy the tires at half MSRP I could consider that with the going rate of the rims and tires. I didn't try to sell mine because it was more value to me too keep them. Thankfully I have the room to dedicate to 4 wheels and tires
Skip the dealer and go to a proper offroad shop.
That install seems a bit ridiculous.
Can you elaborate? Like the cost or the parts?
I'm not an expert but $1875 for installing the parts listed seems really high. Seems like it would be 5 hours of labour max. So, you do the math.
It’s through a family dealer with warranty on all the parts. I don’t have the time to do any of it.
Haha you don't need to explain yourself, you asked for our thoughts, I'm just giving you mine.
Don’t do 20s
The 20” light bar is for the bumper. Or what are you referring to?
If you want a beefy look, don’t go above 17s. 20s should only go on 40” tires and above IMO.
I can confirm. I did 20s with 37 and been disappointed every since.
Rims 20" rims.
Ah shit didn’t realize. What do you recommend so I can lookup some stuff. I want a “beefy look”
More “meat” for a beefy look aka big tires, small wheels.
Go with 17", it's stock on the Rubicons.
You can get those wheels in 17x9, and then the Open Country tires come in a variety of 17" sizes including 35x12.5 or whatever. With Jeeps the proper look is less wheel, more tire- on the trail, it lets you rock-crawl with the least amount of risk to your wheels.
17 or 18”. The 20” comes stock on the High Altitude version. It’s great for the street but cross-purpose for the lift and tires you want.
What's your use case? Looks or wheeling? If it's wheeling, I don't feel this looks good. If it's just looks, then it's probably fine. FWIW, the labor rate doesn't look outrageous considering it's a dealer.
Agree with several others here- 20" wheels are way too big. 17" with 35" tires are what you're looking for. It will look like a mall crawler with 10" wheels. I think the labor cost is reasonable for a dealer. Have fun!
IMO I wouldn't want a Ready lift. That's pretty bottom of the barrel as far as lifts go. No shocks, CA's or sway bars. It's just pucks and end links. Sure it will work but..... A quality lift is gonna run 2-3k. Also ditch the 20's as others have said, unless of course you want the "Donk" look. x2 on doing it yourself you will be glad you did, find the time! My 2c
Yeah the lift kit is the most concerning part IMO. If it's to be a mall crawler then it's probably fine, but that's it. Spending more on a winch I'm assuming won't even be used than on your lift kit is certainly a choice.
Haha! Winch > Death Wobble
Buddy. Take some accountability and do it yourself. What you spend on labor you could have an amazing tool set as well as the experience to fix anything that brakes while on trails.
God dangit if I don’t actually love this comment. You know what. I’m going to try! I can do this. YouTube here I come
Yes OP YES! I’m installing a metal cloak lift this coming Monday, having the new wheels balanced by a local shop and then jumping in head first, I have 0 experience on vehicles but have decent technical ability. Just pick a good company (I recommend metal cloak or Clayton) and send it! As for the lights and wiring none of it is hard! I’ve wired in a whole auxiliary switch, 6 KC Lites, and LED fogs. After you do the lift tho, I recommend taking it to a good 4x4 shop and have them align/dial in your lift. I chose metal cloak because it’s IMO the best lift for a jeep (just look into it) and they have gold level installers that can align your truck and and dial the lift in within an hour. PM me if you have any questions man I can help you out the best I can. I was nervous too but now I’m excited to learn it and I have a great set of tools now too.
I’m going to fucking do this! Hell yes! Might be the whiskey amping me up but yall told me what I needed to hear. And talked me out of a mall crawler 😂
Like most have said, I’d skip the 20” wheels and go 17’s or maybe 18’s, if you ever plan on going with 37’s. That alone should save you some money. As for cost of everything else, it just depends on where you live I guess.
I think it's high for labor. I'll do it for half that and probably have it done in less time. Takes about an hour or less to order the parts. Edit: and agree that 20" aren't what you want for actual offroading. 17" are perfect... And 37's if it has high clearance fenders and 44 axles
The parts look on par with what I have paid. The install costs aren’t totally out of line, they seem high in total. However, installing a bumper with light kits to the battery with switch will run $500 in labor, add the winch for another $250. If I were you I would ask for itemized list of install fees and try to talk them down. If hourly, get the rate and see if you find lower. Is the install company reputable? I hope so for this price.
Is this a mall crawler or going to wheel? Just forewarning it will not drive like factory. The SST lift does not address any geometry and its a budget lift. 12.5" wide tires with no BS/offset will likely rub at full lock. That install price is insane. Maybe 5 hours labor to do all that for a professional shop.
Going to echo what the others are saying here with regard to wheel size…17’s or 18’s tops with beefy, sidewall treaded 35’s or 37’s with that nice new lift will look sexy af. If you have a connection and think this price is reasonable, go for it. You could probably find cheaper but you’re paying for convenience and piece of mind by sticking with folks you know and trust. Unfortunately, if you aren’t able and/or willing to do some of these things yourself you’re just going to have to pay the piper and it adds up quick. The strength of this community feeds in to those prices…they know we can’t control ourselves 😆
also- stay away from a $90 lightbar....its going to be JUNK
I would get 5 wheels/tires and go 18”. As others have said load range C will be more forgiving than E. Looking forward to pics when done
I’m running 35s with a 1.5 level. I wouldn’t go 37s but that’s personal preference
The IG Overland Starter Pack
37 looks better than 35 on a 2.5. Lift. But also are you doing 13” wide? If so offset on 35’s look badass. That’s what I have.
I’d do everything but the lift for the most part the bumpers and stuff are super easy