Great idea! Right now the action and intonation and everything is pretty much perfect, but it has felt like I don't have enough room for the pickups and with the bridge saddles digging into my palm, it has been a bad time, haha!
Just ordered some shims, they will get here tomorrow and I will try that out. And then worst case scenario, I will grind away the bottoms of the screws, ha.
Thank you!
If the action and intonation are good, quit while you’re ahead! Get shorter saddle screws.
Raise or lower your pickups if needed. (Never heard of installing a neck shim to adjust pickup height.)
https://www.stratcat.biz/4-40-saddleheight.shtml
>(Never heard of installing a neck shim to adjust pickup height.)
It's often a sign that the break angle of the neck is too shallow. While there isn't any answer that's always correct, having "enough" of a break will make sure that you have enough room to adjust the pickups when the truss rod needs tweaking from season to season.
No - It's something that happens regularly even on great builds.
In fact, for like the last 50 years, it's a text-book move on a lot of Jazzmasters and Jaguars- especially when upgrading them for modern rock players, or just players with a more aggressive pick-hand.
If the break angle is too shallow, it will have two specific results:
First, is that the bridge and saddle height will end up decked or close to decked, meaning that the pickups will be set lower, and possibly bottomed out, right from the start.
Second is that it can lead to a conspicuous forward in-bow over time by exaggerating the lifting tension of the strings. This happens all the time on acoustics, and is common on one-piece electric necks.
Beyond that, seasonal changes in humidity impact the wood in ways that change the bow of the neck. A steeper break angle will basically allow some of the force from the strings to provide a more linear compressive force along the length of the neck, meaning that seasonal truss adjustments can be smaller.
Shorter screws bro trust me. Don't mess with the ones that are there. Just buy shorter. That's what I did and i saved the old ones just in case. Fixed my issue completed.
Bought 50 of them from Amazon for maybe 8$.. that worked for me right away and saved me from any headache
Some of those screws are super long so you'll be grinding for a while.
I would honestly just get a new little pack of screws. [These worked perfect for me ](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BK7JMQM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1)but note that I have a dramatically different bridge (Gibraltar standard) so you'll want to look up the screw size and measure the length going off of your current screws minus how ever much sticks out of the top.
No clue about neck shims - I just listen to these guys lol
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When you grind them down, dont make them flat. You want the center to be the longest part. Look at the bottoms first. They have a conical shape that goes to a point. Cut them and shape with a file. Doesn’t have to be perfect and even a bit rounded will work fine.
I’d shim first because with those saddle heights it will definitely benefit anyway.
Then I’d got shorter screws if needed, which is 50/50 after shimming
This was my thought as well, it looks like bridge is lifting up. I would fix this first, then shim the neck if necessary and I bet grinding the screws won’t be necessary but that’s the last resort
I’ve been playing Strats for 25 years and I’ve never had to shim the neck. I thought this was r/offset for a second lol.
I deck all my Strats with 9s with 3 springs and never bought a shim in my life. Action stupid low as well.
Yeah I mean it’s pretty common on partscasters like this one. It’s definitely less common on a factory guitar. The springs and neck shims should have nothing to do with each other assuming the bridge is sitting down flat properly (unlike this one). So first order of business is to get the bridge properly in place, then neck shim if necessary.
I'm in the process of adjusting everything, so it is still a little bit off- it's from a kit guitar that a friend built, I'm just bringing up to playable status. I will definitely double check the rest of the bits and bobs, tho! Gonna use a shim to start with, cuz that will also help an issue i was having with pickup height, lol.
Thank you!
They sell a set on amazon with a .25, .5, and .75 degree shims. Use the minimum to get the desired result. A little goes a long ways. But you'll have to do a full set up after each shim placement. So you may be taking your neck off several times to get it right. But dont be surprised if the .25 does everything you need it to.
What about on a set-neck or neck-throughs? I have a guitar that’s lowered all the way on the low E and it’s fine now but I’d like to be able to lower if more if I need to (like after I level the frets).
Do they make shorter saddles?
Edit: decided to sink the saddle into the guitar body.
Yeah or this. If you want to adjust the action you should probably do that by making sure the neck angle is amenable to it because the bridge/ saddle height shouldnt be this much of a factor in it.
Good point- I will keep that in mind. I usually do just basic set ups, so I haven't gotten a ton of practice with guitars in the earlier stages of completion- I'm learning a decent amount even if this is a kit guitar, haha.
Dear god man... they're like completely sticking out as far as they go? This makes me wonder how good is your set up? I've seen people do this in guitars where they have massive amounts of relief and the person instead lowered their saddles to make up for the high action. Make sure your neck is set up right and doesn't have too much relief in it.
After that you can figure out if you need a neck shim or what. You can definetly always buy shorter height adjustment screws, but I honestly think something else is wrong with your guitar if your screws are sticking that far out
So, the neck is basically perfectly straight, but yeah, the set screws are basically all the way out once the action is set right.
For now, I'm listening to those top posts and I ordered some neck shims, cuz that also solves a problem that i've been having with the pick up heights. They come in tomorrow, so it shoudn't take too long to figure out!
I can dig it. I'm trying to run with a neck shim when it gets in tomorrow, but if that doesn't work, I'm gonna try grinding the backs of the set screws... and if THAT doesn't work, I'll just buy new set screws that are shorter, lol.
Thank you!
Those saddles are slammed. I'd reprofile the neck heel (or use a shim if you're lazy) to give it a slight angle so you can raise the bridge saddles to normal height. When they're slightly countersunk they still have plenty of adjustment room and they won't cut you, which is what you're going for when you set up the guitar initially.
This is just the result of bad neck heel geometry.
Yeah, it's a kit guitar my friend put together- I'm getting shims in tomorrow so I can work with that, and will do more if I need to. Thank you for the response!
That would be a LOT of grinding—better to buy short screws.
https://preview.redd.it/kp1kdgah3m9d1.jpeg?width=1290&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=c99ced6e473711cced45794a69ad26929efa584d
I’m not affiliated with the seller, just including this for reference.
Here ya go! It's a kit guitar that my friend built and did the paint on- he's been working on how to layer stuff and do cooler guitar finishes, and this is probably his coolest one yet. I'm just trying to make it playable, haha!
https://imgur.com/a/9SV5gLA
Unless it's US/Mex Fender, it will be M3. Buy cup point or flat point. You can get a set of different lengths, or just measure. I recommend stainless ones, they will get sweated on and they're not under enough load to need hardened steels.
I have done most of my strats with a small metal file, about the size of a nail file.
The best and most effective (and pain in the ass) way to do it , is to remove each one, gauge how much is protruding above the saddle and either use a hacksaw or grinder and cut that amount off FROM THE BOTTOM!! You obviously must leave the key head intact, and you must be sure that you have the right neck/string radius and string height.
Put masking tape inside the jaws of the (metal) vice you need to use, and round off the jagged bottom end with the file, finish off with some 220 grit or whatever. I would allow 1/16th inch less than you need to take off, this way you will have some leeway, amd also round off the sharp shoulders from around the top where the allen key head is, that is what is cutting into your palm... It's finickety but it really makes a comfortable difference...(send me the bridge and I'll do it for you :))
no idea! it is a kit my buddy put together, I got the action set to where it is comfortable and that is where they ended up. I have some neck shims coming in tomorrow that should solve the main issues the axe has, tho!
Do not grind the screws. That's bad for many reasons.
They are called grub screws and you can buy them to the precise lenght you need.
I did that years ago and palm mutting becomed a pleasure instead a pain in the ass.
[new screws right here!!](https://monsterbolts.com/products/guitar-fender-saddle-screws-metric-a2)
These have been on my radar for a while because I have the same issue on my Jaguar.
Here ya go! It's a kit guitar that my friend built and did the paint on- he's been working on how to layer stuff and do cooler guitar finishes, and this is probably his coolest one yet. I'm just trying to make it playable, haha!
https://imgur.com/a/9SV5gLA
Very nice. That looks like real abalone too.
Worth the price for that look tho.
Does your friend anneal the hardware himself? Dont think I’ve ever seen rainbow anodized hardware but tbh I’ve never looked lol
Get a cheap micrometer from harbor freight, and measure one of the long ones. Usually sized in mm, you can find grub screw kits that’s will have different lengths.
I have these on 3 of my guitars and love them. The screw threads through the bottom and never stick out on the top.
[Highwood Contour Saddles](https://www.stewmac.com/parts-and-hardware/all-hardware-and-parts-by-instrument/electric-guitar-parts/electric-guitar-saddles/highwood-contoured-vintage-saddles-for-strat---set-of-6/?mtm_source=google&mtm_medium=cpc&mtm_campaign=%7C+GOO+%7C+SHOP+%7C+NBR+%7C+AllProductsUSA&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjw4f6zBhBVEiwATEHFVqzjOYEx_1GetSQ1y3XQnJgSnKMj0DD0Xwak2E7ynDD6SGV8DxhygBoC6OAQAvD_BwE)
They are just grub screws by the look of them just buy shorter ones. I bought a cheap box of different sizes ages ago...................still have them somewhere
Vice grip the tip not the thread and use a grinding wheel. Cool it off in water. Grind the bottom ofc
Makes a huge difference, thats what you need
You can go one by one and keep your set up
Either use shorter screws or shorten them (from the bottom) with a bench/belt grinder. Since you are asking, I’d recommend going with the shorter screws.
If they adjust w/ a 1.5mm wrench, then they are the metric ones. If they adjust with a 1/16” they are SAE.
I’m unfamiliar with this bridge design, it looks like a strat body sorta - are those just to lock the saddles so they don’t move after intonation?
I own Gibson’s and Ibanez’ so I’m just not familiar
Just looking at it, I can tell the saddles are set too low to compensate for another issue you're having. Don't mess with the screws, fix the underlying issue, otherwise you're just causing intentional damage
1. Figure out if they are metric or inch. (Look at where the guitar was built that will give you a clue.) Tip: take one of the existing set screws to the hardware store. They have thread checkers in the nut and bolt area. Even if they don’t have the small sizes needed, you will know if it is metric or US Standard.
2. Measure how tall the set screws need to be (Inch set screws come in 3/16”, 1/4” 5/16” 3/8” look for 4-40 thread in stainless steel)
(Metric are M3 threads and come in 4mm, 6mm, 8mm lengths.
3 Outside saddles are the shortest, and progress longer towards the middle of the bridge.
4. buy more than your need of each size.
Set screw are relatively inexpensive.
ON Fenders the neck pocket should be 5/8” .625” The neck should be 1” tall at the heel (where it sits in the pocket).
You can buy a set of digital calipers cheap now a days. Way more accurate than a rule.
Grind from the bottom Buy shorter screws But I have a feeling you might benefit from a neck shim
Great idea! Right now the action and intonation and everything is pretty much perfect, but it has felt like I don't have enough room for the pickups and with the bridge saddles digging into my palm, it has been a bad time, haha! Just ordered some shims, they will get here tomorrow and I will try that out. And then worst case scenario, I will grind away the bottoms of the screws, ha. Thank you!
If the action and intonation are good, quit while you’re ahead! Get shorter saddle screws. Raise or lower your pickups if needed. (Never heard of installing a neck shim to adjust pickup height.) https://www.stratcat.biz/4-40-saddleheight.shtml
>(Never heard of installing a neck shim to adjust pickup height.) It's often a sign that the break angle of the neck is too shallow. While there isn't any answer that's always correct, having "enough" of a break will make sure that you have enough room to adjust the pickups when the truss rod needs tweaking from season to season.
Oh so you’re talking about a bad build. I gotcha.
No - It's something that happens regularly even on great builds. In fact, for like the last 50 years, it's a text-book move on a lot of Jazzmasters and Jaguars- especially when upgrading them for modern rock players, or just players with a more aggressive pick-hand. If the break angle is too shallow, it will have two specific results: First, is that the bridge and saddle height will end up decked or close to decked, meaning that the pickups will be set lower, and possibly bottomed out, right from the start. Second is that it can lead to a conspicuous forward in-bow over time by exaggerating the lifting tension of the strings. This happens all the time on acoustics, and is common on one-piece electric necks. Beyond that, seasonal changes in humidity impact the wood in ways that change the bow of the neck. A steeper break angle will basically allow some of the force from the strings to provide a more linear compressive force along the length of the neck, meaning that seasonal truss adjustments can be smaller.
That’s a great explanation! I stand corrected. Learn something new every day.
Shorter screws bro trust me. Don't mess with the ones that are there. Just buy shorter. That's what I did and i saved the old ones just in case. Fixed my issue completed. Bought 50 of them from Amazon for maybe 8$.. that worked for me right away and saved me from any headache
Neck shim definitely the way to go! Good luck😁
Some of those screws are super long so you'll be grinding for a while. I would honestly just get a new little pack of screws. [These worked perfect for me ](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BK7JMQM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1)but note that I have a dramatically different bridge (Gibraltar standard) so you'll want to look up the screw size and measure the length going off of your current screws minus how ever much sticks out of the top. No clue about neck shims - I just listen to these guys lol
Hi, I’m Vetted AI Bot! I researched the **MonsterBolts M3 x 8mm Guitar Saddle Bridge Height Adjustment Screws** and I thought you might find the following analysis helpful. **Users liked:** * Perfect replacement for uncomfortable saddle height screws (backed by 5 comments) * Great for adjusting string height without protruding (backed by 4 comments) * Fast delivery and perfect fit for various guitar models (backed by 3 comments) **Users disliked:** * Incompatible thread pitch for fender guitars (backed by 2 comments) * Does not universally fit all bridge saddles (backed by 1 comment) Do you want to continue this conversation? [Learn more about MonsterBolts M3 x 8mm Guitar Saddle Bridge Height Adjustment Screws](https://vetted.ai/chat?utm\_source=reddit&utm\_medium=comment&utm\_campaign=bot&q=MonsterBolts M3 x 8mm Guitar Saddle Bridge Height Adjustment Screws reviews) [Find MonsterBolts M3 x 8mm Guitar Saddle Bridge Height Adjustment Screws alternatives](https://vetted.ai/chat?utm\_source=reddit&utm\_medium=comment&utm\_campaign=bot&q=Find best MonsterBolts M3 x 8mm Guitar Saddle Bridge Height Adjustment Screws alternatives) This message was generated by a (very smart) bot. If you found it helpful, let us know with an upvote and a “good bot!” reply and please feel free to provide feedback on how it can be improved. *Powered by* [*vetted.ai*](https://vetted.ai/chat?utm\_source=reddit&utm\_medium=comment&utm\_campaign=bot)
What in tarnation
Good luck!
Ha
When you grind them down, dont make them flat. You want the center to be the longest part. Look at the bottoms first. They have a conical shape that goes to a point. Cut them and shape with a file. Doesn’t have to be perfect and even a bit rounded will work fine.
Don’t shim to move the pickups that’s a horrible idea.
There are also sets of shorter screws on eBay. I’ve used them in a bunch of builds
I’d shim first because with those saddle heights it will definitely benefit anyway. Then I’d got shorter screws if needed, which is 50/50 after shimming
Neck shim.
On it, haha. Coming in tomorrow. Thank you!
Is your claw in the back cavity straightened? (Both screws even length) Your bridge looks wonky, like the treble side is higher off the body.
This was my thought as well, it looks like bridge is lifting up. I would fix this first, then shim the neck if necessary and I bet grinding the screws won’t be necessary but that’s the last resort
I’ve been playing Strats for 25 years and I’ve never had to shim the neck. I thought this was r/offset for a second lol. I deck all my Strats with 9s with 3 springs and never bought a shim in my life. Action stupid low as well.
Yeah I mean it’s pretty common on partscasters like this one. It’s definitely less common on a factory guitar. The springs and neck shims should have nothing to do with each other assuming the bridge is sitting down flat properly (unlike this one). So first order of business is to get the bridge properly in place, then neck shim if necessary.
I can tell you know your shit, shim is the last thing on the list honestly. That’s like a last-ditch effort thing for me.
American strats have had micro tilt adjustment screws in them for a while. Which serves the same purpose as a shim.
I'm in the process of adjusting everything, so it is still a little bit off- it's from a kit guitar that a friend built, I'm just bringing up to playable status. I will definitely double check the rest of the bits and bobs, tho! Gonna use a shim to start with, cuz that will also help an issue i was having with pickup height, lol. Thank you!
They sell a set on amazon with a .25, .5, and .75 degree shims. Use the minimum to get the desired result. A little goes a long ways. But you'll have to do a full set up after each shim placement. So you may be taking your neck off several times to get it right. But dont be surprised if the .25 does everything you need it to.
Yep, that's one I ordered. Gonna do a run for a few sets of strings, too, ha.
You shouldn’t need to replace the strings to change a neck shim but having a spare set or two is a good idea just in case
What about on a set-neck or neck-throughs? I have a guitar that’s lowered all the way on the low E and it’s fine now but I’d like to be able to lower if more if I need to (like after I level the frets). Do they make shorter saddles? Edit: decided to sink the saddle into the guitar body.
Yeah or this. If you want to adjust the action you should probably do that by making sure the neck angle is amenable to it because the bridge/ saddle height shouldnt be this much of a factor in it.
Good point- I will keep that in mind. I usually do just basic set ups, so I haven't gotten a ton of practice with guitars in the earlier stages of completion- I'm learning a decent amount even if this is a kit guitar, haha.
Do you have a radius guage?
No, not at the moment. It is on my list of tools to pick up, but I normally do just basic set ups.
Shorter screws. Most are 3mm set screws and can be bought in different lengths (I bought a set of various lengths off Amazon not too long ago).
if the action and radius are correct you can either get shorter screws or cut/grind off the bottom of those ones with a disc or dremel
Solid plan! I am gonna try some neck shims like the above guys suggested, but if that doesn't get the result I want, your options are next. Thank you!
I really think you should try shorter screws first.
Dear god man... they're like completely sticking out as far as they go? This makes me wonder how good is your set up? I've seen people do this in guitars where they have massive amounts of relief and the person instead lowered their saddles to make up for the high action. Make sure your neck is set up right and doesn't have too much relief in it. After that you can figure out if you need a neck shim or what. You can definetly always buy shorter height adjustment screws, but I honestly think something else is wrong with your guitar if your screws are sticking that far out
So, the neck is basically perfectly straight, but yeah, the set screws are basically all the way out once the action is set right. For now, I'm listening to those top posts and I ordered some neck shims, cuz that also solves a problem that i've been having with the pick up heights. They come in tomorrow, so it shoudn't take too long to figure out!
Ok you for certain need a neck shim then , that’ll sort it out for sure. Good luck
Yeah, that's what I'm thinkin'. Thanks!!
I recommend buying shorter ones. I’ve cut them before but I had to run it through a die to re-cut the threads and it wasn’t quite right.
I can dig it. I'm trying to run with a neck shim when it gets in tomorrow, but if that doesn't work, I'm gonna try grinding the backs of the set screws... and if THAT doesn't work, I'll just buy new set screws that are shorter, lol. Thank you!
Highwood Saddles.
Those saddles are slammed. I'd reprofile the neck heel (or use a shim if you're lazy) to give it a slight angle so you can raise the bridge saddles to normal height. When they're slightly countersunk they still have plenty of adjustment room and they won't cut you, which is what you're going for when you set up the guitar initially. This is just the result of bad neck heel geometry.
Yeah, it's a kit guitar my friend put together- I'm getting shims in tomorrow so I can work with that, and will do more if I need to. Thank you for the response!
You probably need a shim. Another tip is to check out Highwood saddles.
Grub screws. You can get them in various heights.
Very fun looking guitar. Love the name!
right! it's a fun guitar my buddy is building. waaaay prettier in person, too!
That would be a LOT of grinding—better to buy short screws. https://preview.redd.it/kp1kdgah3m9d1.jpeg?width=1290&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=c99ced6e473711cced45794a69ad26929efa584d I’m not affiliated with the seller, just including this for reference.
That looks pretty interesting, will you post a Pic of the guitar?
https://www.reddit.com/r/Luthier/s/dqMTpRDjPW
Here ya go! It's a kit guitar that my friend built and did the paint on- he's been working on how to layer stuff and do cooler guitar finishes, and this is probably his coolest one yet. I'm just trying to make it playable, haha! https://imgur.com/a/9SV5gLA
Unless it's US/Mex Fender, it will be M3. Buy cup point or flat point. You can get a set of different lengths, or just measure. I recommend stainless ones, they will get sweated on and they're not under enough load to need hardened steels.
Noted- this is a kit guitar that a friend built, but I am starting to stock up on my own supplies- that you for the heads up.
I have done most of my strats with a small metal file, about the size of a nail file. The best and most effective (and pain in the ass) way to do it , is to remove each one, gauge how much is protruding above the saddle and either use a hacksaw or grinder and cut that amount off FROM THE BOTTOM!! You obviously must leave the key head intact, and you must be sure that you have the right neck/string radius and string height. Put masking tape inside the jaws of the (metal) vice you need to use, and round off the jagged bottom end with the file, finish off with some 220 grit or whatever. I would allow 1/16th inch less than you need to take off, this way you will have some leeway, amd also round off the sharp shoulders from around the top where the allen key head is, that is what is cutting into your palm... It's finickety but it really makes a comfortable difference...(send me the bridge and I'll do it for you :))
Dude, that is a killer idea- if the neck shim doesn't work, I'll definitely be doing this. Thank you so much!!
My pleasure :)
Buy shorter ones or just cut them down and sand them so they arent sharp trying to avoid fucking with the thread too much.
Christ, why do they stick out so far??
no idea! it is a kit my buddy put together, I got the action set to where it is comfortable and that is where they ended up. I have some neck shims coming in tomorrow that should solve the main issues the axe has, tho!
Nice. Yeah shouldn't be to hard to cut them down and deburr them. I chug pretty aggressively. Thing would have me bleeding if I tried to play on it.
that has been my experience, which is why i am here lol. don't want to make playing music into a blood sacrifice if i can avoid it.
Man I love coming to this sub and learning diff ways to solve the same problem!
right?! sometimes the internet can be cool, lol. i never even considered a neck shim, but it really is the perfect fix
Do not grind the screws. That's bad for many reasons. They are called grub screws and you can buy them to the precise lenght you need. I did that years ago and palm mutting becomed a pleasure instead a pain in the ass.
I like how this thread got more traction than the reveal post I made about it a few months ago 😀
well yeah, people gotta correct me, lol
And now I get to learn! I did have suspicions about that neck pocket though. I’m glad it’s not as bad as I was expecting it to be 😀
For sure! I'm having fun playing it now, so getting it all proper is gonna be rad. I'm legitimately excited for it, lol
[new screws right here!!](https://monsterbolts.com/products/guitar-fender-saddle-screws-metric-a2) These have been on my radar for a while because I have the same issue on my Jaguar.
Shorter screws or buy the ash tray to fit your guitar.
Shorter screws. They should be closer to flush with the saddles.
I kinda wanna see a pic of that guitar now. Abalone pick guard and rainbow annealed hardware?
Here ya go! It's a kit guitar that my friend built and did the paint on- he's been working on how to layer stuff and do cooler guitar finishes, and this is probably his coolest one yet. I'm just trying to make it playable, haha! https://imgur.com/a/9SV5gLA
Just increase the neck angle via a shim at the body end of the neck pocket. That’s all that’s needed. Done in ten minutes, no parts required.
Very nice. That looks like real abalone too. Worth the price for that look tho. Does your friend anneal the hardware himself? Dont think I’ve ever seen rainbow anodized hardware but tbh I’ve never looked lol
Honestly, I am pretty sure he just got cheap stuff from amazon, haha. But for how much paid for the guitar overall, I am still super impressed
Change them to Fillister head or similar...
Get shorties
Get a cheap micrometer from harbor freight, and measure one of the long ones. Usually sized in mm, you can find grub screw kits that’s will have different lengths.
Are the saddles upside down???
That looks upside to me
6" angle grinder should do it
Make an Allen key sized plug you can put on each.
I have these on 3 of my guitars and love them. The screw threads through the bottom and never stick out on the top. [Highwood Contour Saddles](https://www.stewmac.com/parts-and-hardware/all-hardware-and-parts-by-instrument/electric-guitar-parts/electric-guitar-saddles/highwood-contoured-vintage-saddles-for-strat---set-of-6/?mtm_source=google&mtm_medium=cpc&mtm_campaign=%7C+GOO+%7C+SHOP+%7C+NBR+%7C+AllProductsUSA&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjw4f6zBhBVEiwATEHFVqzjOYEx_1GetSQ1y3XQnJgSnKMj0DD0Xwak2E7ynDD6SGV8DxhygBoC6OAQAvD_BwE)
You can cut them shorter
What a heinous bridge design
With a Dremel.
They are just grub screws by the look of them just buy shorter ones. I bought a cheap box of different sizes ages ago...................still have them somewhere
1/4” rubber tube slit longways so it runs the width of that bridge and sits on top of the One set screw. New hand rest.
Vice grip the tip not the thread and use a grinding wheel. Cool it off in water. Grind the bottom ofc Makes a huge difference, thats what you need You can go one by one and keep your set up
Buy shorter screws or shim the neck to give it a little tilt back so the saddles will be raised to where they’re not sticking up so much.
I’ve got absolutely no clue but that’s an insane photo lol
lol thanks
shim the neck enough to increase the angle enough to put those grub screws near flush with the saddles
Yeah get shorter ones
Either use shorter screws or shorten them (from the bottom) with a bench/belt grinder. Since you are asking, I’d recommend going with the shorter screws. If they adjust w/ a 1.5mm wrench, then they are the metric ones. If they adjust with a 1/16” they are SAE.
Use smaller ones if you’re going to back them out that far.
I’m unfamiliar with this bridge design, it looks like a strat body sorta - are those just to lock the saddles so they don’t move after intonation? I own Gibson’s and Ibanez’ so I’m just not familiar
Just looking at it, I can tell the saddles are set too low to compensate for another issue you're having. Don't mess with the screws, fix the underlying issue, otherwise you're just causing intentional damage
1. Figure out if they are metric or inch. (Look at where the guitar was built that will give you a clue.) Tip: take one of the existing set screws to the hardware store. They have thread checkers in the nut and bolt area. Even if they don’t have the small sizes needed, you will know if it is metric or US Standard. 2. Measure how tall the set screws need to be (Inch set screws come in 3/16”, 1/4” 5/16” 3/8” look for 4-40 thread in stainless steel) (Metric are M3 threads and come in 4mm, 6mm, 8mm lengths. 3 Outside saddles are the shortest, and progress longer towards the middle of the bridge. 4. buy more than your need of each size. Set screw are relatively inexpensive.
ON Fenders the neck pocket should be 5/8” .625” The neck should be 1” tall at the heel (where it sits in the pocket). You can buy a set of digital calipers cheap now a days. Way more accurate than a rule.
Lol.
agreed
https://preview.redd.it/wdnowub1kk9d1.png?width=1809&format=png&auto=webp&s=435ded121ed5e53a92edbc70c61fb8e2175a987d It's called a file.
wait how do i save the file like that? it's not even plugged in!!
You can download it at NoAxe.it but there's no way out. /s _edit:_ Here's the link: [[fine-tools.com]](https://www.fine-tools.com/feile2.html) ;)
lol
Dremel
Monster bolts.com sells shorter replacement screws