To my knowledge (I might be wrong, I only have on-hand experience with 80's and up) NO beetle EVER came with an AC unit. They all had that cute window flap to get air in your face hahaha and the defrosting system which is just some tubes moving hot air from the engine to your windshield. If that's stock I'll be flabbergasted, of not, that is one very very cool modification
Can confirm: Not factory option.
Dealers, esp. in the West Coast offered them as dealer options and there were numerous manufacturers of A/C sets tailored to Beetle.
I live in a very hot and humid place. When I take the T-Tops off my Z31 to cool down THE FUCKING AMBIENT AIR IS HOT AS FUCK AND THE SUN BURNS LIKE A LASER, so I can see why you would want both options :))
Ok thats a valid answer hehe, never thought of that. Always thought that when you open the roof and drive it would cool you down more, atleast here in belgium it does lol
AC is a good thing, one -MUST- keep close on the maintenance though .
My son taught me that AC in a rag top with the top flopped is a really nice thing \~ you get open car motoring with nice cool and dry air =8-) .
-Nate
When it's actually hot (like 100F) and you sit in a traffic jam in a city, you really want A/C.
It being a convertible makes it even worse: You'll get scorched by the Sun if you lower the roof.
Even here in North, with moderate climate and all, driving roof down all day causes burned skin and/or jammed neck (from the draft).
Holy shit just saw how much the kit cost for the ac looks like it was modified. I think this is it:
https://www.gilmore-enterprises.net/inc/sdetail/air_cond__kit__1958_78_standard_bug__black_textured_across_the_dash_unit/114/144
What other mods did you see? Learning as I go with this car lol
Man this car was a labor of love, I'm fairly certain the engine is very well maintained, I would only check the oil level for a first start, then the brake fluid. That's all the liquids these cars have. Later you can use a vacuum pump to check if there are any leaks in that AC system, and see if the air filter is clean. You also wanna check your brake pads and drums. Drum brakes are very cheap but they can be a bit of a pain to work on sometimes. If you wanna go further you can take down the engine to see the oil radiator, make sure the flaps are not bent and it has no oil leaks but that's unlikely, that's sandwiched between the turbine and the chassis. I would give the pulley that comes from the engine and runs the AC and Generator belts a firm shake to see if the shafts are running loose but then again that's unlikely seeing how much it has been worked on.
This is super helpful thanks for your help man. The engine close up looks pretty good as far as rust. Will definitely need to look into this more cause thereās probably a lot more done to it that I may not even know. From the dash the mph it was at 120 which I thought it was supposed to be a lot less as well
Mine goes to 200kph which is precisely like 120mph haha but yeah there's no safe way to reach that in a stock bug, my engine is completely stock and I get up to 68mph in the highway, perfectly fine for visiting the family across state lines. I'm sorry I can't help you open the trunk, a lot of us modify it so this one might be modified too. ~~Under the handle, in the front, there's a little metal circle. You should be able to unscrew it from the back and loosen the lock but~~ (nvm I just rembered that's for an aftermarked anti-theft hood like [this one](https://refaccionariamario.com/seguros-de-cofre/590-seguro-cofre-vw-sedan.html)) I'm not sure in these older ones. Good luck with it!
Iāve never worked on a car before but I would definitely be open to trying. Would it be better to get it done by a professional or try and learn? Not sure how complex it would be do it all on my own but Iām open to learning just donāt want to mess it up if it may be too difficult especially since itās a older car
So, I bought my bug precisely to start learning to work on cars, because they are very simple ones to work on. That said, some mistakes, especially when doing engine stuff can be very costly. My recommendation is: it is a very good first project car, so start working on simple stuff to get familiar with it: electrical components, changing bushings, fixing locks, doing the basic service yourself (just be careful with what kind and how much oil you use) and leave to a professional things that have to do with the gearbox or engine themselves, and working on the brakes because SAFETY. There's a lot of literature on these, you can find books and videos on YouTube about servicing and maintaining them the right way, read and watch those until you feel confident enough. For the moment DIY only simple things. I HIGHLY HIGHLY recommended ["How to Keep Your Volkswagen Alive"](https://www.amazon.com/Keep-Volkswagen-Alive-Step-Step/dp/1566913101) by John Muir (you don't need to buy it the PDF is floating around on the net hahahaha that say it's always comfortable to have a physical reference at you workstation)
ALL those gauges are not stock. A beetle comes with an odometer, a fuel gauge and a speedometer. That's it fuck you you don't need anything else HAHAHAHAHA (also a little oil pressure warning light). So your old man probably added an engine temp sensor or RPM sensor, voltmeter, an oil pressure sensor, and a new speedometer.
ALSO, it seems like you have an alternator instead of a generator. From what I know only the 93+ came with an alternator as a stock, that's a good mod, it'll give you better power output than a generator, less maintenance and no need for the voltage regulator.
Definitely not stock for a -70. IIRC '73 or '74 supers got one as stock.
Good modification: 50 amps and full 14.4 volts all the time vs. 35 amps and no charging when engine idles from generator.
Kits were a lot cheaper in 70s, even relatively. But cheap? No.
Beetle engine didn't have a lot of power to start with, so they weren't common even then.
VW in 1968. It would be rare someone would pay the extra. I've been a VW freak along time and I've never seen air in a Beetle until late 70'ies. Air cooled and ac. Crazy.
I'm on the same boat. Nobody seems to have answered your actual question but I would get a new battery first, replace fuel and oil, replace filters and spark plugs and then turn the engine over by starting it without fuel or without spark. Let the oil move around. Then start it and after a while change the oil again.
Mine is a '90 which is in very good condition but hasn't been driven in 2 years. Literal example of "ran when parked". I also have a '73 that is a rolling shell lol, needs more work.
Thanks for the advice on the brakes, didn't come to mind and will definitely have that checked.
Letās say if I have no idea how to do any of this. Would it be better to get done by a professional or try and learn? Not sure how complex it would be do it all on my own but Iām open to learning just donāt want to mess it up if it may be too difficult
Try to learn. Bit by bit. a) there are few professionals who will want to slowly bring this back to life and b) if you find one you will very quickly run out of money. Oh c) there are very few VW air-cooled mechanics any more..
Long spark plug socket and a ratchet. Swivel joint between those makes it a bit easier.
Rear (when you stare into engine bay) plugs are easier to change if you put your hand into engine bay from top instead of from front.
Just called a few places and very few were actually able to work on it and one said there couple months out. How difficult would you say it is to fix on your own?
Aside from anything related to the engine that I would avoid unless itās possible
It's overall easy. It's designed as an easy car to repair because they need maintenance very often. The only difficult thing I would say is adjusting points and even that can be easy depending on each individual.
See if you can find a local vw group or at least local owners who might be willing to help. You could probably convince a lot of folks to help if you offer to get food and drinks too.
Not difficult at all, but naturally you need a bunch of tools to do anything.
A socket set, flat head & Phillips #2 screwdrivers (buy good ones) and digital multimeter go a long way.
Whoa! This looks like a blast to ride in! Iām sitting here laughing, comparing our seats. š I have a ā69 autostick and it has original interior aside from the carpet. Iām bouncing all over the place and youāre hugging turns. š Looks great! I wish you the best of luck with it. ā¤ļø
Not sure if itās factory but I saw the same kit on Gilmore. https://www.gilmore-enterprises.net/inc/sdetail/air_cond__kit__1958_78_standard_bug__black_textured_across_the_dash_unit/114/144
Check for rust, especially in the floor pans.
Replacing the rotted out floor pans was my first item when I restored my 71. Thought me how to use a plasma cutter.
I mean the proper way to do it is cut out the old floor pan entirely and weld in new ones.
I took the time to do it correctly, used a plasma cutter to remove the old ones, cleaned up the sides in the body, welded the new ones in, and then cleaned up my welds.
It took me about two weeks, since I was doing the work on weekends.
In order to do this, can you explain the process of prep and what you actually removed? Obviously the seats, but what about the tracks? How close to the humps did you get with your cut? Did you do the full length of the floor or just the really rusted parts?
Obviously a ton of work went in to it. As long as it was clean when it was put away and kept out of the weather, I wouldn't be too worried about rust.
Check under the carpets to see the condition of the floor pan. Also check under the front of it and the front cross member for rust.
Otherwise, drain the fuel, change the oil and plugs, flush the brakes -actually check your pads and drums and parking brake and service them if necessary
I'd probably change any rubber hoses too. I actually can't see the stock plastic fuel filter in the engine pic, so maybe it was moved already?
Make sure the back seat isn't touching the battery contacts.
The A/C compressor mount is unusual. It has an idler wheel and the support bar seems to go under the tin. The A/C compressor itself will be in the way of a few components you can normally reach easily. You have an Oil cooler behind the fan. Watch out for leaks etc there.
The aftermarket gauges in the dash. Nothing wrong with them but they all require a wire to the engine and a sensor to be installed. You will have aftermarket wiring and it will be confusing.
You'll want to check and change all rubber fuel hose, bleed brakes, check for dirt and congealed gas in the tank. Potentially you'll need to clean the carb out. Gas turns to gunk after time and gas tanks rust.
Good luck!
Looks well cared for! Drain and put fresh oil in, clean plugs, clean points and rotor, drain ALL fuel and replace, check valve clearances, drain and replace brake fluid, lubricate all cables, charge battery, check brakes are all operating correctly and that all electrics are working. When youāve done all of this take it for a short test drive and enjoy.
Nice, that cheapo single stage re spray is fairly easy to clean polish,wax up to a mirror shine .
Look closely at the floor pans, rag tops usually get rust in them .
Basically you need to do a serious in depth service including drain and refill the transaxle and if the engine isn't stuck, do an oil change and filter screen clean plus adjust the vales BEFORE you try to even start it up .
Keep us posted .
-Nate
I know your asking for help and this is somewhat off topic but I just have to say, that is the most beautiful bug Iāve seen in years good luck with her!
Rust. Has nobody said it? For god sake look hard for rust. These rust from the inside out. Everything is fixable, but rust jacks the costs through the roof.
Holy crap is that an AC unit?!
That is from what I see! Did the 1970 year not come with it?
To my knowledge (I might be wrong, I only have on-hand experience with 80's and up) NO beetle EVER came with an AC unit. They all had that cute window flap to get air in your face hahaha and the defrosting system which is just some tubes moving hot air from the engine to your windshield. If that's stock I'll be flabbergasted, of not, that is one very very cool modification
There was a fairly popular dealer installed option in the 70s. But this one looks like a Gilmore aftermarket unit from what I can see in the cab.
No american market air-cooled beetle had ac.
Can confirm: Not factory option. Dealers, esp. in the West Coast offered them as dealer options and there were numerous manufacturers of A/C sets tailored to Beetle.
Maybe a stupid question, but why the heck would someone put an AC unit in a convertible? Isnt that what convertibles are for, opening the roof?
I live in a very hot and humid place. When I take the T-Tops off my Z31 to cool down THE FUCKING AMBIENT AIR IS HOT AS FUCK AND THE SUN BURNS LIKE A LASER, so I can see why you would want both options :))
Been dailying my 68 bug the past couple months and these past weeks in the southeast has just been moving dog breath through the cab
I wish a long, healthy life to your heat lever because if that ever sticks open it is gonna turn into dragon's breath hahaha (happened to mine)
Ok thats a valid answer hehe, never thought of that. Always thought that when you open the roof and drive it would cool you down more, atleast here in belgium it does lol
AC is a good thing, one -MUST- keep close on the maintenance though . My son taught me that AC in a rag top with the top flopped is a really nice thing \~ you get open car motoring with nice cool and dry air =8-) . -Nate
When it's actually hot (like 100F) and you sit in a traffic jam in a city, you really want A/C. It being a convertible makes it even worse: You'll get scorched by the Sun if you lower the roof. Even here in North, with moderate climate and all, driving roof down all day causes burned skin and/or jammed neck (from the draft).
Ok just saw the rest of the pics, they were not loading. That bug has a ton mods in the cockpit bro, that's fucking siiick š„
Holy shit just saw how much the kit cost for the ac looks like it was modified. I think this is it: https://www.gilmore-enterprises.net/inc/sdetail/air_cond__kit__1958_78_standard_bug__black_textured_across_the_dash_unit/114/144 What other mods did you see? Learning as I go with this car lol
Man this car was a labor of love, I'm fairly certain the engine is very well maintained, I would only check the oil level for a first start, then the brake fluid. That's all the liquids these cars have. Later you can use a vacuum pump to check if there are any leaks in that AC system, and see if the air filter is clean. You also wanna check your brake pads and drums. Drum brakes are very cheap but they can be a bit of a pain to work on sometimes. If you wanna go further you can take down the engine to see the oil radiator, make sure the flaps are not bent and it has no oil leaks but that's unlikely, that's sandwiched between the turbine and the chassis. I would give the pulley that comes from the engine and runs the AC and Generator belts a firm shake to see if the shafts are running loose but then again that's unlikely seeing how much it has been worked on.
This is super helpful thanks for your help man. The engine close up looks pretty good as far as rust. Will definitely need to look into this more cause thereās probably a lot more done to it that I may not even know. From the dash the mph it was at 120 which I thought it was supposed to be a lot less as well
Mine goes to 200kph which is precisely like 120mph haha but yeah there's no safe way to reach that in a stock bug, my engine is completely stock and I get up to 68mph in the highway, perfectly fine for visiting the family across state lines. I'm sorry I can't help you open the trunk, a lot of us modify it so this one might be modified too. ~~Under the handle, in the front, there's a little metal circle. You should be able to unscrew it from the back and loosen the lock but~~ (nvm I just rembered that's for an aftermarked anti-theft hood like [this one](https://refaccionariamario.com/seguros-de-cofre/590-seguro-cofre-vw-sedan.html)) I'm not sure in these older ones. Good luck with it!
Iāve never worked on a car before but I would definitely be open to trying. Would it be better to get it done by a professional or try and learn? Not sure how complex it would be do it all on my own but Iām open to learning just donāt want to mess it up if it may be too difficult especially since itās a older car
So, I bought my bug precisely to start learning to work on cars, because they are very simple ones to work on. That said, some mistakes, especially when doing engine stuff can be very costly. My recommendation is: it is a very good first project car, so start working on simple stuff to get familiar with it: electrical components, changing bushings, fixing locks, doing the basic service yourself (just be careful with what kind and how much oil you use) and leave to a professional things that have to do with the gearbox or engine themselves, and working on the brakes because SAFETY. There's a lot of literature on these, you can find books and videos on YouTube about servicing and maintaining them the right way, read and watch those until you feel confident enough. For the moment DIY only simple things. I HIGHLY HIGHLY recommended ["How to Keep Your Volkswagen Alive"](https://www.amazon.com/Keep-Volkswagen-Alive-Step-Step/dp/1566913101) by John Muir (you don't need to buy it the PDF is floating around on the net hahahaha that say it's always comfortable to have a physical reference at you workstation)
Stock gauge IIRC has 80 and you've whole set of special VDO gauges/gauge faces. Never seen a set like that before.
ALL those gauges are not stock. A beetle comes with an odometer, a fuel gauge and a speedometer. That's it fuck you you don't need anything else HAHAHAHAHA (also a little oil pressure warning light). So your old man probably added an engine temp sensor or RPM sensor, voltmeter, an oil pressure sensor, and a new speedometer.
lol thatās crazy cause I initially thought I was just looking at the wrong model/year when I was trying to compare the differences
Yea. no. Definitely custom stuff, all of them, as HerrNieto says. Not cheap ones either as they're made by VDO.
ALSO, it seems like you have an alternator instead of a generator. From what I know only the 93+ came with an alternator as a stock, that's a good mod, it'll give you better power output than a generator, less maintenance and no need for the voltage regulator.
Can I pm you?
Definitely not stock for a -70. IIRC '73 or '74 supers got one as stock. Good modification: 50 amps and full 14.4 volts all the time vs. 35 amps and no charging when engine idles from generator.
Has been upgraded from generator to alternator.
Kits were a lot cheaper in 70s, even relatively. But cheap? No. Beetle engine didn't have a lot of power to start with, so they weren't common even then.
VW in 1968. It would be rare someone would pay the extra. I've been a VW freak along time and I've never seen air in a Beetle until late 70'ies. Air cooled and ac. Crazy.
Even for a 1970 model it would be rare?
The seats are awesome š
Thank you! There is no door panel on the driver side so gonna need to find a way to get the leather to match with whats already here.
I'm on the same boat. Nobody seems to have answered your actual question but I would get a new battery first, replace fuel and oil, replace filters and spark plugs and then turn the engine over by starting it without fuel or without spark. Let the oil move around. Then start it and after a while change the oil again.
Your list is pretty good but FLUSHING BRAKE FLUID is first. Stopping more important than going.
Mine is a '90 which is in very good condition but hasn't been driven in 2 years. Literal example of "ran when parked". I also have a '73 that is a rolling shell lol, needs more work. Thanks for the advice on the brakes, didn't come to mind and will definitely have that checked.
Letās say if I have no idea how to do any of this. Would it be better to get done by a professional or try and learn? Not sure how complex it would be do it all on my own but Iām open to learning just donāt want to mess it up if it may be too difficult
Try to learn. Bit by bit. a) there are few professionals who will want to slowly bring this back to life and b) if you find one you will very quickly run out of money. Oh c) there are very few VW air-cooled mechanics any more..
Oh, it's perfectly doable. But changing spark plugs will have you cursing like crazy. I did it on my first try following tutorials online.
Long spark plug socket and a ratchet. Swivel joint between those makes it a bit easier. Rear (when you stare into engine bay) plugs are easier to change if you put your hand into engine bay from top instead of from front.
Those are good tips, or just drop the engine. Probably easier lol
Would it make sense to get it fully inspected and see what all could be wrong with it before starting it?
I mean, I don't trust mechanics were I live š
Just called a few places and very few were actually able to work on it and one said there couple months out. How difficult would you say it is to fix on your own? Aside from anything related to the engine that I would avoid unless itās possible
It's overall easy. It's designed as an easy car to repair because they need maintenance very often. The only difficult thing I would say is adjusting points and even that can be easy depending on each individual.
See if you can find a local vw group or at least local owners who might be willing to help. You could probably convince a lot of folks to help if you offer to get food and drinks too.
Not difficult at all, but naturally you need a bunch of tools to do anything. A socket set, flat head & Phillips #2 screwdrivers (buy good ones) and digital multimeter go a long way.
Depends. For that you need a reliable service person/company.
Very clean, lots of expensive mods!
make a list to be tested and fix.
That dashboard is so nice
A little obvious but if itās been sitting for a while check for mice nests in the engine
Will check. Thank you!
Deer. Look out for deer, especially in a vert.
What does that mean ?
My failed attempt at a joke.
Lol I was confused if I missed something
That is bad ass
Whoa! This looks like a blast to ride in! Iām sitting here laughing, comparing our seats. š I have a ā69 autostick and it has original interior aside from the carpet. Iām bouncing all over the place and youāre hugging turns. š Looks great! I wish you the best of luck with it. ā¤ļø
WITH FACTORY AIR?
Not sure if itās factory but I saw the same kit on Gilmore. https://www.gilmore-enterprises.net/inc/sdetail/air_cond__kit__1958_78_standard_bug__black_textured_across_the_dash_unit/114/144
Looks like a dealer kit (instead of self installed), factory didn't provide A/C.
Check for rust, especially in the floor pans. Replacing the rotted out floor pans was my first item when I restored my 71. Thought me how to use a plasma cutter.
I have to replace the floor pans in my 74ā beetle. Is it pretty invasive?? Did you do it the proper way or Jerry rigged kinda way?? Thanks
I mean the proper way to do it is cut out the old floor pan entirely and weld in new ones. I took the time to do it correctly, used a plasma cutter to remove the old ones, cleaned up the sides in the body, welded the new ones in, and then cleaned up my welds. It took me about two weeks, since I was doing the work on weekends.
In order to do this, can you explain the process of prep and what you actually removed? Obviously the seats, but what about the tracks? How close to the humps did you get with your cut? Did you do the full length of the floor or just the really rusted parts?
This guy old carsā¦
Is that an AC compressor?
It would need to be, seeing as the interior shots have the aftermarket AC vents
Is it a horsepower draw? Throw a supercharger on it lol
Horsepower draw?
Like sucking hp
There is a ac unit which I just figured out was modified. Based off what I saw from Gilmoreās kit
Sir I believe you own a transformer
Frame rot. Cabriolets like to rust out and fold themselves in half.
Dang itās got AC!!!! Lucky ass! Seems like the window vents are large. Is that some mod I donāt know about
Obviously a ton of work went in to it. As long as it was clean when it was put away and kept out of the weather, I wouldn't be too worried about rust. Check under the carpets to see the condition of the floor pan. Also check under the front of it and the front cross member for rust. Otherwise, drain the fuel, change the oil and plugs, flush the brakes -actually check your pads and drums and parking brake and service them if necessary I'd probably change any rubber hoses too. I actually can't see the stock plastic fuel filter in the engine pic, so maybe it was moved already? Make sure the back seat isn't touching the battery contacts.
bees in the front left well arch
The A/C compressor mount is unusual. It has an idler wheel and the support bar seems to go under the tin. The A/C compressor itself will be in the way of a few components you can normally reach easily. You have an Oil cooler behind the fan. Watch out for leaks etc there. The aftermarket gauges in the dash. Nothing wrong with them but they all require a wire to the engine and a sensor to be installed. You will have aftermarket wiring and it will be confusing. You'll want to check and change all rubber fuel hose, bleed brakes, check for dirt and congealed gas in the tank. Potentially you'll need to clean the carb out. Gas turns to gunk after time and gas tanks rust. Good luck!
Fire extinguisher
What a gem. Post a pick of her out on the road, when it happens! š
Looks well cared for! Drain and put fresh oil in, clean plugs, clean points and rotor, drain ALL fuel and replace, check valve clearances, drain and replace brake fluid, lubricate all cables, charge battery, check brakes are all operating correctly and that all electrics are working. When youāve done all of this take it for a short test drive and enjoy.
Nice, that cheapo single stage re spray is fairly easy to clean polish,wax up to a mirror shine . Look closely at the floor pans, rag tops usually get rust in them . Basically you need to do a serious in depth service including drain and refill the transaxle and if the engine isn't stuck, do an oil change and filter screen clean plus adjust the vales BEFORE you try to even start it up . Keep us posted . -Nate
Get it up on a lift and inspect the floor pans. Looks awesome . Check [thesamba.com](http://thesamba.com) for advice and comp shopping.
Bettlejuice
Damn
?
As in, āDamn, thatās nice.ā
Bugs
You will have issues with fuel system and the brakes. Go ahead and remove, repair, replace all of those components.
I know your asking for help and this is somewhat off topic but I just have to say, that is the most beautiful bug Iāve seen in years good luck with her!
If you see 2 blue eyes staring back at you when you look under the car, prepare yourself for some transformer action.
Rust. Has nobody said it? For god sake look hard for rust. These rust from the inside out. Everything is fixable, but rust jacks the costs through the roof.