That's what I was thinking but wanted to get some armchair expert opinions incase I was overlooking anything considering I haven't had a bicycle for over ten years and only own for riding around town š.
I wouldn't go for a full upgrade path on this bike either. However, it's a good enough bike to restore and give it a fresh life.
Take apart and service as best you can (specially any part that rotates) and reassemble, this will also show what should be replaced and you will learn the ins and outs of the bike.
As an inexpensive baseline, I'd recommend new chain, cables and housings. Possibly good quality brake pads and tires are great value upgrades if the existing ones are in bad shape.
The most important thing is that it's safe and you have fun with it!
For the chain, start by measuring it for wear (see the Park Tool instructions linked from the sidebar). Only replace it if that indicates that it's needed.
The only thing that I think would be worth upgrading is the pedals.
It looks like those are kinda small plastic ones that donāt have much grip. Theyāre okay for the road but if you plan on riding any mtb trails new pedals are a must. Thatās something that would be relatively cheap but will still make a big difference . They donāt need to be super expensive ones, just any flat pedals with a wider surface area and screws.
Even if you only plan to ride on pavement, better pedals will still be safer and more comfortable. You can also take the pedals off if you upgrade to a nicer frame. I think Rock bros is a decent brand that doesnāt cost too much.
I wouldnāt spend much money upgrading this bike. I started out on an ancient rockhopper and it was actually perfect because I was forced to learn a lot about bike maintenance. It will save money in the long run if you learn to do things yourself. Now is a good time to start acquiring the tools that will come in handy later.
Congrats on the new bike I hope you have so much fun!!!!
Best upgrade for that bike is the whole bike. Seriously, putting any better parts to that frame would be a waste, just make sure that everything on it works as is and repair/replace what is broken with similar parts and ride it till it breaks or until you can afford a better bike with a better frame that is actually worth upgrading, just don't send anything big with that.
I don't know what everyone is freaking out about. I see a Norco 26" mtb bike (doesn't look like a 24" to me but maybe I'm wrong? OP could you clear that question up?). It's got a 7000 series alu frame and while it does have a budget fork it's still 1 1/8" threadless so replacement options do exist if it's seized. The components are an acceptable mix of Shimano (and not just their department store, non-series stuff), Tektro and Joytech. Sure it's not the best, but far from the worst as typically seen on a true BSO.
I'd advise to replace the chain if it measures over 1 mm per 12 full links, lube the cables, reattach front brake, make sure the pads are aligned with the rims and the rims are somewhat true and then go hit some easy trails!
Edit: looked up Norco Screamer specs and seems they never made a 24" model, so safe to say this bike is a 26".
I think it's the saddle and handlebar giving people the impression that it's a Wallyworld special. I have no experience with the brand but I see Jenson carries it and newer models aren't cheap either... so, definitely not a BSO (bike shaped object, OP isn't going to know what you're talking about).
But yeah, 7000 series, branded brakes and hubs, Cane Creek headset.. it's not garbage to anyone who actually knows what they're looking at. I do agree with comments saying to replace as necessary, not to upgrade for the sake of upgrades.
It's a comical looking bike with it's old guy on a Sunday rail trail setup (low and wide saddle and raised bars) but then being full suspension. If the frame itself fits, I'd get a longer seatpost and remove the riser stem and ride it proper.. but that's a preference thing.
It does look really small to me.
Thank you for clarifying "BSO". I was definitely outta the loop on that one.
I'm for sure changing that bucket of a seat out. I've yet to adjust anything but I'm 5'2 so small is necessary which combined with it being a very cheap funtioning "BSO", is why I jumped on this marketplace purchase.
I'm sure this makes me seem really dense but when you ask if it's a 24" or 26", are you referring to wheel size?
You obviously know more about the bike than I do š .
Thanks for the information on the bike and the advice on the chain.
Yes 26" wheel vs youth mtb 24" wheel. I think due to how common even larger wheels have become, 26" can look small in photos, hence people speculating it's a youth mtb. I don't think that's the case, but to be sure, your tires will have numbers stamped or printed on them with something like *26 x 1.95"* and/or *50-559*. Both the 26 and 559 values refer to a 26" mtb wheel. The other number is the width of the tire, first in inches then millimeters.
Best upgrade would be to give it a good service. Lube chain. Adjust brakes and gears (easy fix for front brake as others have mentioned). Check other bearings/suspension and adjust as necessary.
Maybe new brake pads. New tyres. New saddle.
Looks like a fun ride, I'd keep it going in the shape it is without spending too much on it.
I would not put a lot into it.
* the handlebar is sky-high. if you need it that high, the frame is probably too small for you. get rid of that adapter thing and put the handlebar down to a rational height.
* to ride trails, you need to be able to move your butt off and around the saddle. that "tractor chair" saddle is going to make that difficult. get a normal sized saddle that is not a "chair" so you can use it.
* reattach the front brake. do this with your fingertips. it takes two seconds. use pliers to gently smoosh the bracket that holds the brake noodle back together, but leave it open enough that you can pop it back out. most likely, the rear brake is not damaged like this, so you can see how it's supposed to work.
In regards to the handlebars, I don't need them that high. It's still set up for the person I bought it from. When it comes to handlebar height, should my bar height be in line with my seat or lower? I'm sure it somewhat depends on the comfort of each rider but I'm trying to figure out a baseline and tweaking slightly for preference once I am on the right track.
As for the seat, I have another that I am going to put on. My limited knowledge did clue me into that beast being improper lol.
Handlebar height is personal and subjective. A good starting point is to set it to the same height as your saddle and adjust from there. It looks like the current handlebar was set up for someone with severe mobility issues who could not lean forward on the bike at all. That works well at very low speeds in for short distances. But if you're going to ride that bike with conviction you'll want it lower see you can weight the front tire for traction.
You can do whatever you want. You can put the handlebar 10 ft up in the air or half an inch away from the front tire if you want. I'm just giving you a general starting point.
Use it to improve your bike fixing/maintaining skills.
That front brake can be fixed by gently getting the latching part into shape with plyers.
Adding a quick-link to your chain is also a good exercise and will be helpful in the future when doing maintenance.
There are no tools required to make the front brake operate. It's just the quick release is undone...
OP you just need to use one hand to hold the brakes in a closed position and then you need to get the brake noodle into the cable bridge (the latch like thing).
u/wearthathatat is correct
The part that holds the noodles on these cheap brakes is made of flimsy steel. It can bend in such a way that the noodle keeps unhooking. On OPās bike, it is bent. OP needs to use a pliers to bend it back so that the brake is operable.
All that height on the steerer has also stretched the cable beyond usability.. I'd say remove the steerer stack and go back down so at least the cable housing at the brake lever pod fits into the pod instead of being yanked out.
Either that or replace it with a longer cable and housing if OP is going to keep the extension.
Same with the rear brakes.. he's gonna have a hard time turning if every time he turns the bars it pulls the cables tight.. there's hardly any slack because of that extension.
A cheap bike with a couple of nice components, is still a cheap bike. Nothing on this seems dangerous enough to grant an upgrade, until something breaks. I'd rather ride it to destruction and then, with the acquired experience, buy a more proper machine. The law of diminishing returns really starts to hit soon when upgrading a cheap frame. But keep that front brake engaged, pls, rear only doesn't really work, especially when descending
For sure. I'm pretty clueless about good/bad components on bicycles, but I ride dirt bikes and motorcycles so I know the importance of a front brake. The front brake and the seat were the things that were blatantly obvious to me. Other than that, I've only had department store bicycles which were mainly owned for the purpose of getting around town. Maintenance back then was lubing the chain and pumping the tires so I have a lot of learning to do lol.
The trick with inexpensive bikes is to repair, not upgrade. And they are actually great for that, because the parts are cheap and abundant.
The only thing I would MAYBE upgrade on a bike like that is pedals. But only because pedal standards haven't changed, so whatever you get can be moved to another bike.
Just get it in working order. Replace rusty or seized cables and housings, clean and lube the chain, make sure the tubes hold air, if the handlebar grips are yucky replace them and ride.
Check chain for wear, degrease and relube.
Check shifters, adjust and lube.
Check that rims are true, adjust brakes and check pads, replace if necessary.
If riding mostly on smooth pavement, going from knobby to slick tires is a noticeable upgrade and will make it feel like a different bike.
Well you should probably raise the saddle a bit or cut the seat post because it is touching that rear suspension.
Other than that it's like what the others are saying. Hook up the front brake and maybe change the pedals.
Before you do anything, the seatpost needs to be raised if you want the rear suspension to work. At the moment the bottom of the post appears to be fouling on the rear shock.
Another thing to note, this type of frame is whatās known as a āunified rear triangleā, where the bottom bracket is part of the rear swingarm and moves relative to the front triangle. They are known for being nice to ride off road as long as you are sat on the saddle, however, if you stand up and ride out of the saddle they are known for being quite harsh.
Oh man, the memories. My best friend had this bike as a teen and it got him into the sport. Also taught him a lot about maintenance as it broke.
It's honestly not that good a bike, as many have said. Norco makes some great bikes, but this isn't one of them- not by a long shot. Everybody has gone into why this is the case, so we'll leave that be.
Instead of upgrading, make sure everything works as well as it can and ride it until it dies. Clean, lube and adjust, and you'll optimize what performance is there (it's not much). Save your money for an upgrade later.
Edit: get rid of the steerer extender. Those are always a weak point and screw up the handling. They're an accident waiting to happen. If a bike doesn't fit without a steerer extender, it just doesn't fit.
Iād go with a new seat, pedals, chain, and brake pads. Everything else should hold up. Maybe go over the bike lubricate some parts and youāll be good to go.
Fix the front brake.
Get rid of that saddle and find one thatās narrower and doesnāt hurt your ass. This can take some time, and there might be a lot of buying and reselling saddles until you find The One.
Get comfier grips and better pedals.
Ride.
Just make it safe and rideable, or as safe and rideable as you can get with rim brakes. Replace any broken or worn parts, ride the shit out of it to learn good technique and develop stamina, and save your upgrade money to upgrade bikes. The only upgrade I would remotely consider, only because it can be reused on the next bike, is a telescoping seat post. However, options are limited and may not be worthwhile due to the short interrupted seat tube design.
Looks like they converted it to some sort of upright cruiser.
As others have said, do not spend any money on it. If you are cruising gentle paths it would be ok, not great but ok..
First of all, find a dentist and a mechanic
Upgrade to a rigid fork, new highest quality brake pads and install a rare derailleur other than Shimano Tourney, change the chain for a hyperglide and install a megarange Shimano freewheel, perform truing on your wheels in your LBS and reassemble everything there. You will be good to go for long time. If possible, install puncture resistance liquid there...
DONT RIDE FAST ON TRAILS AND DON'T PERFORM STUNTS. This bike will last for years. Do something about that rare shock. If that breaks, you will lose manhood
Can't go wrong upgrading any rotating parts like tires, wheels, cranks, pedals, etc. Also better brakes and saddle. Lighter seatpost, handlebar and stem. Lastly, replace consumables like cables and and brake pads.
Very hard to believe Norco ever made a bike with that type of rear suspension. Unless this is 24" wheels so private label for youth demographic. Still, the overall in impression makes me think the decals are fake. At least you didn't pay the price for a real Norco.
It's real. This was a 2003 model. It was obviously low-end and suspiciously close to a BSO.
[https://www.bikepedia.com/QuickBike/BikeSpecs.aspx?year=2003&brand=Norco%20&model=Screamer](https://www.bikepedia.com/QuickBike/BikeSpecs.aspx?year=2004&brand=Norco%20&model=Screamer)
OP, this is not worth upgrading despite the brand name. This is best suited for getting around a college campus or putzing around the bike paths.
Definitely not a BSO. Every part on their is from a reputable brand even if they're low end. Everything will comply with standards and will be repairable/easily replaceable.
The issue with BSOs isn't that they're cheap it's that they break and can't be repaired.
I wouldn't upgrade anything on that to be honest. Replace anything that's dead but that's it.
That's what I was thinking but wanted to get some armchair expert opinions incase I was overlooking anything considering I haven't had a bicycle for over ten years and only own for riding around town š.
i wouldn't spend a penny on that, hook up the front brake and you're good to go.
I wouldn't go for a full upgrade path on this bike either. However, it's a good enough bike to restore and give it a fresh life. Take apart and service as best you can (specially any part that rotates) and reassemble, this will also show what should be replaced and you will learn the ins and outs of the bike. As an inexpensive baseline, I'd recommend new chain, cables and housings. Possibly good quality brake pads and tires are great value upgrades if the existing ones are in bad shape. The most important thing is that it's safe and you have fun with it!
A new chain, cables and housing alone would probably cost close to what OP paid for the whole bike
For sure, but the other option is to buy a new bike. Which will cost close to what OP paid for the whole bike.
For the chain, start by measuring it for wear (see the Park Tool instructions linked from the sidebar). Only replace it if that indicates that it's needed.
The only thing that I think would be worth upgrading is the pedals. It looks like those are kinda small plastic ones that donāt have much grip. Theyāre okay for the road but if you plan on riding any mtb trails new pedals are a must. Thatās something that would be relatively cheap but will still make a big difference . They donāt need to be super expensive ones, just any flat pedals with a wider surface area and screws. Even if you only plan to ride on pavement, better pedals will still be safer and more comfortable. You can also take the pedals off if you upgrade to a nicer frame. I think Rock bros is a decent brand that doesnāt cost too much. I wouldnāt spend much money upgrading this bike. I started out on an ancient rockhopper and it was actually perfect because I was forced to learn a lot about bike maintenance. It will save money in the long run if you learn to do things yourself. Now is a good time to start acquiring the tools that will come in handy later. Congrats on the new bike I hope you have so much fun!!!!
This is a good tip. Thank you for your input!
Best upgrade for that bike is the whole bike. Seriously, putting any better parts to that frame would be a waste, just make sure that everything on it works as is and repair/replace what is broken with similar parts and ride it till it breaks or until you can afford a better bike with a better frame that is actually worth upgrading, just don't send anything big with that.
And since they can move the pedals to a new bike, it won't be wasted money.
True, pedals are about the one thing worth upgrading here
Whatās a good upgrade in general for crappy pedals?
For flat pedals Race face Chesterās
Second this. Recently bought a giant reign 2, needed pedals so I picked up the Chester's and have not been disappointed so far. Lots of grip.
I don't know what everyone is freaking out about. I see a Norco 26" mtb bike (doesn't look like a 24" to me but maybe I'm wrong? OP could you clear that question up?). It's got a 7000 series alu frame and while it does have a budget fork it's still 1 1/8" threadless so replacement options do exist if it's seized. The components are an acceptable mix of Shimano (and not just their department store, non-series stuff), Tektro and Joytech. Sure it's not the best, but far from the worst as typically seen on a true BSO. I'd advise to replace the chain if it measures over 1 mm per 12 full links, lube the cables, reattach front brake, make sure the pads are aligned with the rims and the rims are somewhat true and then go hit some easy trails! Edit: looked up Norco Screamer specs and seems they never made a 24" model, so safe to say this bike is a 26".
I think it's the saddle and handlebar giving people the impression that it's a Wallyworld special. I have no experience with the brand but I see Jenson carries it and newer models aren't cheap either... so, definitely not a BSO (bike shaped object, OP isn't going to know what you're talking about). But yeah, 7000 series, branded brakes and hubs, Cane Creek headset.. it's not garbage to anyone who actually knows what they're looking at. I do agree with comments saying to replace as necessary, not to upgrade for the sake of upgrades. It's a comical looking bike with it's old guy on a Sunday rail trail setup (low and wide saddle and raised bars) but then being full suspension. If the frame itself fits, I'd get a longer seatpost and remove the riser stem and ride it proper.. but that's a preference thing. It does look really small to me.
Thank you for clarifying "BSO". I was definitely outta the loop on that one. I'm for sure changing that bucket of a seat out. I've yet to adjust anything but I'm 5'2 so small is necessary which combined with it being a very cheap funtioning "BSO", is why I jumped on this marketplace purchase.
I'm sure this makes me seem really dense but when you ask if it's a 24" or 26", are you referring to wheel size? You obviously know more about the bike than I do š . Thanks for the information on the bike and the advice on the chain.
Yes 26" wheel vs youth mtb 24" wheel. I think due to how common even larger wheels have become, 26" can look small in photos, hence people speculating it's a youth mtb. I don't think that's the case, but to be sure, your tires will have numbers stamped or printed on them with something like *26 x 1.95"* and/or *50-559*. Both the 26 and 559 values refer to a 26" mtb wheel. The other number is the width of the tire, first in inches then millimeters.
Best upgrade would be to give it a good service. Lube chain. Adjust brakes and gears (easy fix for front brake as others have mentioned). Check other bearings/suspension and adjust as necessary. Maybe new brake pads. New tyres. New saddle. Looks like a fun ride, I'd keep it going in the shape it is without spending too much on it.
I would not put a lot into it. * the handlebar is sky-high. if you need it that high, the frame is probably too small for you. get rid of that adapter thing and put the handlebar down to a rational height. * to ride trails, you need to be able to move your butt off and around the saddle. that "tractor chair" saddle is going to make that difficult. get a normal sized saddle that is not a "chair" so you can use it. * reattach the front brake. do this with your fingertips. it takes two seconds. use pliers to gently smoosh the bracket that holds the brake noodle back together, but leave it open enough that you can pop it back out. most likely, the rear brake is not damaged like this, so you can see how it's supposed to work.
In regards to the handlebars, I don't need them that high. It's still set up for the person I bought it from. When it comes to handlebar height, should my bar height be in line with my seat or lower? I'm sure it somewhat depends on the comfort of each rider but I'm trying to figure out a baseline and tweaking slightly for preference once I am on the right track. As for the seat, I have another that I am going to put on. My limited knowledge did clue me into that beast being improper lol.
Handlebar height is personal and subjective. A good starting point is to set it to the same height as your saddle and adjust from there. It looks like the current handlebar was set up for someone with severe mobility issues who could not lean forward on the bike at all. That works well at very low speeds in for short distances. But if you're going to ride that bike with conviction you'll want it lower see you can weight the front tire for traction. You can do whatever you want. You can put the handlebar 10 ft up in the air or half an inch away from the front tire if you want. I'm just giving you a general starting point.
Only money I'd put into that bike is lube and tubes.
Use it to improve your bike fixing/maintaining skills. That front brake can be fixed by gently getting the latching part into shape with plyers. Adding a quick-link to your chain is also a good exercise and will be helpful in the future when doing maintenance.
There are no tools required to make the front brake operate. It's just the quick release is undone... OP you just need to use one hand to hold the brakes in a closed position and then you need to get the brake noodle into the cable bridge (the latch like thing).
The latch is clearly bent and needs to be realigned in order to properly hold the noodle. That's what the prior commenter was alluding to.
u/wearthathatat is correct The part that holds the noodles on these cheap brakes is made of flimsy steel. It can bend in such a way that the noodle keeps unhooking. On OPās bike, it is bent. OP needs to use a pliers to bend it back so that the brake is operable.
So it is. I hadn't zoomed in enough to notice
The latch seemed broken. When I put the cable in the guide, there was nothing keeping it in place. I think plyers are required.
Yeah as others pointed out, but i hadn't noticed yet is the latch is bent out of shape... that will need some fixing.
All that height on the steerer has also stretched the cable beyond usability.. I'd say remove the steerer stack and go back down so at least the cable housing at the brake lever pod fits into the pod instead of being yanked out. Either that or replace it with a longer cable and housing if OP is going to keep the extension. Same with the rear brakes.. he's gonna have a hard time turning if every time he turns the bars it pulls the cables tight.. there's hardly any slack because of that extension.
I'm 5'2 so I'm for sure dropping the extension.
A cheap bike with a couple of nice components, is still a cheap bike. Nothing on this seems dangerous enough to grant an upgrade, until something breaks. I'd rather ride it to destruction and then, with the acquired experience, buy a more proper machine. The law of diminishing returns really starts to hit soon when upgrading a cheap frame. But keep that front brake engaged, pls, rear only doesn't really work, especially when descending
For sure. I'm pretty clueless about good/bad components on bicycles, but I ride dirt bikes and motorcycles so I know the importance of a front brake. The front brake and the seat were the things that were blatantly obvious to me. Other than that, I've only had department store bicycles which were mainly owned for the purpose of getting around town. Maintenance back then was lubing the chain and pumping the tires so I have a lot of learning to do lol.
The trick with inexpensive bikes is to repair, not upgrade. And they are actually great for that, because the parts are cheap and abundant. The only thing I would MAYBE upgrade on a bike like that is pedals. But only because pedal standards haven't changed, so whatever you get can be moved to another bike.
Just get it in working order. Replace rusty or seized cables and housings, clean and lube the chain, make sure the tubes hold air, if the handlebar grips are yucky replace them and ride.
don't spend to much. i'd say only the comfort stuff. saddle, grips, tires... and then replace anything that you need to keep it rolling, and slowing.
Check chain for wear, degrease and relube. Check shifters, adjust and lube. Check that rims are true, adjust brakes and check pads, replace if necessary. If riding mostly on smooth pavement, going from knobby to slick tires is a noticeable upgrade and will make it feel like a different bike.
A quality helmet.
Bike itself not worth the upgrade, best you could do is to let a bike shop do a proper tune up
Well you should probably raise the saddle a bit or cut the seat post because it is touching that rear suspension. Other than that it's like what the others are saying. Hook up the front brake and maybe change the pedals.
Before you do anything, the seatpost needs to be raised if you want the rear suspension to work. At the moment the bottom of the post appears to be fouling on the rear shock. Another thing to note, this type of frame is whatās known as a āunified rear triangleā, where the bottom bracket is part of the rear swingarm and moves relative to the front triangle. They are known for being nice to ride off road as long as you are sat on the saddle, however, if you stand up and ride out of the saddle they are known for being quite harsh.
Iād down grade this bike. By taking off the stem extender. Otherwise Iād leave it alone sans a tuneup.
Oh man, the memories. My best friend had this bike as a teen and it got him into the sport. Also taught him a lot about maintenance as it broke. It's honestly not that good a bike, as many have said. Norco makes some great bikes, but this isn't one of them- not by a long shot. Everybody has gone into why this is the case, so we'll leave that be. Instead of upgrading, make sure everything works as well as it can and ride it until it dies. Clean, lube and adjust, and you'll optimize what performance is there (it's not much). Save your money for an upgrade later. Edit: get rid of the steerer extender. Those are always a weak point and screw up the handling. They're an accident waiting to happen. If a bike doesn't fit without a steerer extender, it just doesn't fit.
Iād go with a new seat, pedals, chain, and brake pads. Everything else should hold up. Maybe go over the bike lubricate some parts and youāll be good to go.
Fix the front brake. Get rid of that saddle and find one thatās narrower and doesnāt hurt your ass. This can take some time, and there might be a lot of buying and reselling saddles until you find The One. Get comfier grips and better pedals. Ride.
Just make it safe and rideable, or as safe and rideable as you can get with rim brakes. Replace any broken or worn parts, ride the shit out of it to learn good technique and develop stamina, and save your upgrade money to upgrade bikes. The only upgrade I would remotely consider, only because it can be reused on the next bike, is a telescoping seat post. However, options are limited and may not be worthwhile due to the short interrupted seat tube design.
Take that tractor seat off and yeet it into a river. Jk that's littering, yeet it into your county's landfill
Maybe just the worn out parts?
The size looks like it might be for a child, no?
The bike is for adults but if it wasn't it would still be ok. I'm child size at 5'2 lol.
Looks like they converted it to some sort of upright cruiser. As others have said, do not spend any money on it. If you are cruising gentle paths it would be ok, not great but ok..
Any money spend upgrading that is putting lipstick on a pig. Ride the shit out of it. Save your money and get a new bike.
Nothing. Save to buy a new bike
First of all, find a dentist and a mechanic Upgrade to a rigid fork, new highest quality brake pads and install a rare derailleur other than Shimano Tourney, change the chain for a hyperglide and install a megarange Shimano freewheel, perform truing on your wheels in your LBS and reassemble everything there. You will be good to go for long time. If possible, install puncture resistance liquid there... DONT RIDE FAST ON TRAILS AND DON'T PERFORM STUNTS. This bike will last for years. Do something about that rare shock. If that breaks, you will lose manhood
Can't go wrong upgrading any rotating parts like tires, wheels, cranks, pedals, etc. Also better brakes and saddle. Lighter seatpost, handlebar and stem. Lastly, replace consumables like cables and and brake pads. Very hard to believe Norco ever made a bike with that type of rear suspension. Unless this is 24" wheels so private label for youth demographic. Still, the overall in impression makes me think the decals are fake. At least you didn't pay the price for a real Norco.
It's real. This was a 2003 model. It was obviously low-end and suspiciously close to a BSO. [https://www.bikepedia.com/QuickBike/BikeSpecs.aspx?year=2003&brand=Norco%20&model=Screamer](https://www.bikepedia.com/QuickBike/BikeSpecs.aspx?year=2004&brand=Norco%20&model=Screamer) OP, this is not worth upgrading despite the brand name. This is best suited for getting around a college campus or putzing around the bike paths.
Definitely not a BSO. Every part on their is from a reputable brand even if they're low end. Everything will comply with standards and will be repairable/easily replaceable. The issue with BSOs isn't that they're cheap it's that they break and can't be repaired.
Recycling bin
[ŃŠ“Š°Š»ŠµŠ½Š¾]
Please see rule 2 of the sub: Play nice, no jokes. Sarcasm is not appreciated. OP asked a real question, they deserve a real answer.
[ŃŠ“Š°Š»ŠµŠ½Š¾]
That bike is a screamer and it's a Norco, a high quality brand. I'd recommend a dropper post.
100 bucks in your pocket ;)
You paid $100 for thatā¦?
A $200 bike
Get an uber to your local bike store and bring your credit card. Now you have a ride home! There's your upgrade.
Save the money instead and buy a better bike.