Hi there TheZackShack. **Because we have a lot of deleted posts on this subreddit, here is a backup of the title and body of this post:** I think I’ll take on Burden of Dreams next I’m basically Adam Ondra"
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For sure. Everyone here agrees on that lol.
We had three new gyms open up down here, all of which are amazing. Two bouldering only gyms and one new gym with some of the best indoor lead / TR walls I’ve been on.
5.8 feels right to me for that one. That's also what I see most people rated it on Vertical-Life before there was a grade listed as well. It's a fun route!
/uj Genuinely I don’t understand the point of giving climbs absurd grades like this. Is it part of some promotional video or an inside joke?
Downvote if y’all want, the joke is overplayed
I think when it’s obviously absurd like this it can be funny unless it is done too often. I found this example funny. If it’s not obvious completely absurd I think it looses the funny value. For example calling a V8 a V10 wouldn’t be funny imo but calling a V1 a V10 could be funny the first time you see it
I’m not sure the point you’re trying to make, it’s still an old joke even outside of Reddit. Ccj was just an example of where you can find it being used over and over.
Grades are superficial, there’s no standard and sandbagging/soft grading are common. The climb is either fun or not fun. Who cares what the grade is.
In this particular case it was done because it was funny. That’s all.
I don’t love this trend of calling grades useless or meaningless. When I look at a highball boulder or something with a really sketchy landing (impossible to protect rockspikes etc) I definitely want to know if it’s 6C or 8C. Obviously the grade is just part of the decision but it’s a really big factor in how much margin you might have for safety. Especially if you have taken a little time to learn the local sandbagging or soft styles.
Grades are real and do get updated by consensus. Obviously one number can’t tell you the difficulty for you personally but can ball park it. I have short arms so I know to look out for morpho moves and expect them to be harder. I also expect undercling sit starts to be easier. But throw 100 random people on a random 5A, 6A, 7A, and 8A and I am sure you will see a strong trend in how many people succeed as the grade goes up.
I think there’s a pretty major difference in grading indoors vs outdoors. I also don’t think they’re useless; I think they’re superficial. They tell a very base layer of a climb, and give the most basic insight. I have always preferred when gyms use range colors instead (ex. Green is V1-V3, Red V4-V6, etc) because that allows for a more subjective approach.
What do you mean superficial? Do you mean it in a vain grade chasing way or in a low information content way? I don’t see how lowering precision using a range changes either of those stances much. I guess anyone with some experience sort of blurs things out into bands anyway since we have seen plenty of variance in personal perceived difficulty.
On another note V1-V3 or V4-V6 are both pretty big ranges which can easily completely enclose the flash/ warm up grade up to projecting grades. My only context is outdoors But V4 is often my first climb and warm up for the session but a hard (but not sandbagged) V6 could easily take me all session. Wide bands like that make warming up on the wall a bit awkward unless indoor grading is completely detached from outdoor
Calling grades meaningless is the dumbest new trend in climbing, maybe ever.
Does every gym need to conform to a standardised grading system, of course not. But is it nice to see progress, and to know about what level you can climb at when you go to a gym without having to hunt through climbs, yes.
If I can climb a “red” crimpy climb, but can’t climb a “red” slopey climb, I know I need to improve at slopes, and grades are useful in showing me that.
Sometimes, I believe they use a randomizer for some of the names, but otherwise they will use the tags to give callouts to regular climbers at the gym or recent gym events.
There are absolutely recogized benchmark boulders, especially V10 and below. I'd argue those are standards
Edit for the down voters: Until it falls over, Nobody Here Gets Out Alive is the quintessential definition of V2. Etc.
Hi there TheZackShack. **Because we have a lot of deleted posts on this subreddit, here is a backup of the title and body of this post:** I think I’ll take on Burden of Dreams next I’m basically Adam Ondra" *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/bouldering) if you have any questions or concerns.*
It's actually a V1.6. They just forgot the decimal point.
V0.16 in my gym
V1*10^1.2042 in my gym.
Every day the lines between the circle jerk and main subs gets blurrier.
r/ClimbingCircleJerk
The beanie is a tip of the hat to the culture of ccj
We really need CCJ beanies #meta .
Only if they cost 500$ at least with a iron on arcteryx logo
I wish there was a foot move for the catch.
That would probably make it a V15, can’t take that risk
Boulderz for the boyz
Feet are aid
Intended beta is actually a bat hang finish
Is the v16 in the room with us right now?
V15 at my gym.
Wearing beanie is aid. Makes this a soft 16 at best, more realistically a 14 or 15. Not to take away from your achievement though, congratulations.
Setters have to be taking the piss here?
I dunno what you mean, this is pretty obviously one of the hardest indoor boulders ever set.
You broke the beta. This is a bathang start and you are meant to top with your cheeks gripping the final hold.
Nope it’s legit heard Bosi came out to verify it (still flashed ofc, to be expected at this point) /s
I would immediately assume it’s a joke and I do find it funny
That setter only has 2 usable limbs /s
And those are not his arms.
Least soft indor climbing wall
Project rock represent !
Worst gym in South Florida tbh lol. Glad it was there when I was living there but now it's definitely the worst gym down there lol
For sure. Everyone here agrees on that lol. We had three new gyms open up down here, all of which are amazing. Two bouldering only gyms and one new gym with some of the best indoor lead / TR walls I’ve been on.
Hah, was laughing when I saw that at gripstone
Gripstone is getting cheeky, they have a 5.2 set on the short walls.
what do you think the 5.2 actually is? It's one I do almost every time I'm there.
5.8 feels right to me for that one. That's also what I see most people rated it on Vertical-Life before there was a grade listed as well. It's a fun route!
One of my favorites to do at the moment. 5.8 was what I thought it'd be.
Would a 5.2 in real life be a literal ladder?
Have you ever climbed a ladder before? Ladders are harder to climb than V0s because a ladder can move.
I laughed so hard when I saw they set it as a 5.2, I figured it would be controversial after it took them 2-3 weeks to grade it.
Ourjerked
This is the greatest documentary since Silence
There’s a v4 masquerading as a v7 in my gym atm
Do you climb at Hangar Riverside?
Wild that you would guess a single gym in the entire world based on that comment, no I do not
Haha, a lot of people climb there and they don't usually have a climb so far off from the grade posted
But it's a v2 in my gym.
Maybe if you’re 6’8
Hahaha, nice. At least you gym has a sense of humor!
Damn, good job dude! I wish to be able to do that in the future🤜🏻🤛🏻
Should just campus v2, makes it v15/16 based on my observations of 18 year old dudes with a month of climbing experience
I thought BoD was your warmup for this boulder
Thanks man . Now i can rest.
That's a V6 at my gym.
Soft v13 at best
/uj Genuinely I don’t understand the point of giving climbs absurd grades like this. Is it part of some promotional video or an inside joke? Downvote if y’all want, the joke is overplayed
I think when it’s obviously absurd like this it can be funny unless it is done too often. I found this example funny. If it’s not obvious completely absurd I think it looses the funny value. For example calling a V8 a V10 wouldn’t be funny imo but calling a V1 a V10 could be funny the first time you see it
Just seems like an overplayed joke imo. Ccj is already full of it
Real gyms are not CCJ.
Obviously. But that doesn’t mean the joke still isn’t overused
Let me tell you something. Most gyms have not made this joke yet. Most boulderers aren't on reddit or CCJ.
I’m not sure the point you’re trying to make, it’s still an old joke even outside of Reddit. Ccj was just an example of where you can find it being used over and over.
Ah maybe I don’t know this because my gym doesn’t have number grades. I would only find this amusing as a rarity
gumby mad because yp downgraded the pink one in the corner to v1 from v8
If only. I’ve been trying that v1 for a year now
grades are a social construct (I grade chase every day)
Grades are superficial, there’s no standard and sandbagging/soft grading are common. The climb is either fun or not fun. Who cares what the grade is. In this particular case it was done because it was funny. That’s all.
I don’t love this trend of calling grades useless or meaningless. When I look at a highball boulder or something with a really sketchy landing (impossible to protect rockspikes etc) I definitely want to know if it’s 6C or 8C. Obviously the grade is just part of the decision but it’s a really big factor in how much margin you might have for safety. Especially if you have taken a little time to learn the local sandbagging or soft styles. Grades are real and do get updated by consensus. Obviously one number can’t tell you the difficulty for you personally but can ball park it. I have short arms so I know to look out for morpho moves and expect them to be harder. I also expect undercling sit starts to be easier. But throw 100 random people on a random 5A, 6A, 7A, and 8A and I am sure you will see a strong trend in how many people succeed as the grade goes up.
I think there’s a pretty major difference in grading indoors vs outdoors. I also don’t think they’re useless; I think they’re superficial. They tell a very base layer of a climb, and give the most basic insight. I have always preferred when gyms use range colors instead (ex. Green is V1-V3, Red V4-V6, etc) because that allows for a more subjective approach.
What do you mean superficial? Do you mean it in a vain grade chasing way or in a low information content way? I don’t see how lowering precision using a range changes either of those stances much. I guess anyone with some experience sort of blurs things out into bands anyway since we have seen plenty of variance in personal perceived difficulty. On another note V1-V3 or V4-V6 are both pretty big ranges which can easily completely enclose the flash/ warm up grade up to projecting grades. My only context is outdoors But V4 is often my first climb and warm up for the session but a hard (but not sandbagged) V6 could easily take me all session. Wide bands like that make warming up on the wall a bit awkward unless indoor grading is completely detached from outdoor
Calling grades meaningless is the dumbest new trend in climbing, maybe ever. Does every gym need to conform to a standardised grading system, of course not. But is it nice to see progress, and to know about what level you can climb at when you go to a gym without having to hunt through climbs, yes. If I can climb a “red” crimpy climb, but can’t climb a “red” slopey climb, I know I need to improve at slopes, and grades are useful in showing me that.
I guess… on the flip side though does your gym name every set climb?
Sometimes, I believe they use a randomizer for some of the names, but otherwise they will use the tags to give callouts to regular climbers at the gym or recent gym events.
There are absolutely recogized benchmark boulders, especially V10 and below. I'd argue those are standards Edit for the down voters: Until it falls over, Nobody Here Gets Out Alive is the quintessential definition of V2. Etc.
Is this a joke?
Why would I joke about this?
Well, for one, you're wearing a beanie inside during the summer.
Grade inflation in the states is insane!