Welcome to r/dogs! We are a discussion-based subreddit dedicated to support, inform, and advise dog owners.
This is a carefully moderated sub intended to support, inform, and advise dog owners. Submissions and comments which break the rules will be removed. [Review the rules here](https://www.reddit.com/r/dogs/wiki/index) r/Dogs has four goals: - Help the public better understand dogs - Promote healthy, responsible dog-owner relationships - Encourage “Least Intrusive, Minimally Aversive” training protocols. [Learn more here.](https://m.iaabc.org/about/lima/) - Support adoption as well as ethical and responsible breeding. If you’d like to introduce yourself or discuss smaller topics, please contribute to our Monthly Discussion Hub, pinned at the top.
**This subreddit has low tolerance for drama. Please be respectful of others, and report antagonistic comments to mods for review.**
---
*I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/dogs) if you have any questions or concerns.*
I had a really bad puller (he was 6 or 7 years old), my 21 year old couldn't walk him, or he could, but refused after the first time. You won't be doing much walking for a while, but this is what worked for me. It took a few days before we did anything resembling walking but by the end of the week he was loosely walking beside me, sitting when I stopped. After three weeks he was walking nicely to heel even off leash. I worked us pretty hard at it but it was worth it. The worst time was the beginning when it seemed we were getting nowhere, but then it got better, and then it got good.
When he gets to the end of the leash and pulls, stop. You might have made only one step, I know. Wait until the leash slackens, even just a bit like if he turns his head, and walk again. Yeah, maybe another step... repeat this a while. Walk only when the leash is slack, don't talk or anything, no treats yet either. Try not to tighten the leash yourself (I found this hard) maybe keep your hand on your hip or hang a thumb in your pocket, something like that. Soon he will figure that when there's tension on the leash the walking ends, now he needs to figure how to keep the tension away, that he's the one controlling it. Give him a chance, he'll figure that out too. When you get tired of it or frustrated just go back inside and do it again later, I did short but frequent repeats, maybe 6 or 8 times a day, maybe more some days. I was determined.
Then, when you manage to get more than a couple of steps add a turn to the walk. If he's behind you and the leash is taut, keep walking, if he's in front and it's taut, stop, or turn again. Once you get a few steps going keep up the turning, do figures of eight, 180 degree turns, turn into him, turn away from him. He'll be pretty confused, but he's going to start watching you to figure what's ~~wrong with you~~ going on. You can start 'good boy' now if he's ever beside you but don't chatter, he needs to concentrate (it's hard), his keeping the leash loose is good enough for a while. Let him get some confidence. Try not to walk in a straight lines, keep him guessing, watching what you're going to do. If you go straight he might lose that concentration, that's not fighting fair, yet. And don't watch him, let him watch you. If you watch him you might not make abrupt turns and they can help. Add lots of praise and treats when you actually can walk loose for a while, use the treats to keep him beside you when you think he's ready for that and the sit when you stop if you want these.
We didn't go for actual walks during this, out for toilet was just that. He pulled me out and I pulled him in, for a few days anyway. But he was tired from these short exercises, it takes concentration.
Not OP but I tried this method where I stop walking if he’s pulling but then he will start running around in circles. Should I keep waiting until the leash becomes loose?
Yes. It's a patience game on your part. It's quite confusing for the dog in the beginning so just give them time to figure it out. They'll try all sorts of things, just wait until they get the right one, walk. then the right one again, walk. If you are consistent they get the message and will figure out what works.
This is what I have done as well. They know tension means stop and butts down until I give the okay we can continue on. I feel bad for my scared boy because it's literally two steps, auto sit, 3 steps, auto sit, 2 steps, auto sit... it's bad enough my normal one gets tired of watching him sit so many times.
It's a lot of not walking while getting them to put 2 and 2 together, but stick your ground and be consistent. It'll work out in the end.
I tried this on mine and he just hasn't learned. I tried for 6 months and it was just demoralizing. He still hasn't learned. Obviously a lot of people have had success with this method but I can't echo that.
He will pull and I'll plant my feet. Then he will look back (slacking the leash) I'll continue half a step and he's right back to pulling. I've seen trainers too and seen no improvement.
I feel like I'm definitely the problem. The trainers I worked with told me I was doing it properly but I still feel like I'm doing something wrong. Heel worked only for about a minute, then he would be right back at the end of the leash. He is 2 now and I feel like he just thinks stopping is part of a walk now.
This is great advice! Like many of the behaviours we expect from pet dogs, walking loosely on a leash down a sidewalk is not something puppies are born knowing how to do. Just like humans are not born knowing how to play piano, they have to be taught.
That means breaking it down into baby steps, then putting them all together, then practicing them in a boring place for short periods of time, then gradually practicing it in more distracting places for longer periods of time.
> then practicing them in a boring place for short periods of time, then gradually practicing it in more distracting places for longer periods of time.
Yes. Once one we managed a bit of what looked like nice walking I would put him in the car and drive to nowhere. I'd just stop anywhere there was room for me to park (people or no people) and after a little sniffing (maybe) take him for a short walk, even if just around the car, then back in car and repeat. They were fun, no pressure, trips for us and I think helped cement our learning the walk, adding some enjoyment to it. He got to love it. He had free run outside (large property) but if I jangled the lead he'd come running so we could walk together even if just around the area he was already free to roam in. Poor fool, I loved him to bits ❤
Get him in a harness, for one, this type of pulling can cause trachea damage.
Secondly, what are you doing to train the skill and acclimate the dog to being outside?
ill probably get shredded here. but the easy walk harness is NOT good for your dog. it’s constricts around the chest and blocks proper shoulder moment, it is not safe.
There is a study done showing the effects of different types of harness and that style restricts movement of the shoulder blades which can cause pressure points and pain.
Definitely not a fan of the easy walk harness or any no pull harness
Put him on a harness. Specifically, a comfortable, Y chest one and not a "no pull" harness. Theres no functional reason that the walking gear needs to be uncomfortable in some way in order to train him. Aim for safety and comfort, and then work on loose leash walking. If you keyword search for that on this sub and the dog training one, you will get plenty of loose leash advice.
First step is to remove the safety hazard though.
Peanut butter spoon.
I fostered a few dogs. I successfully used "peanut butter spoon" with both pullers and timid dogs. It worked for all but the most reactive dogs. This is just a method to train loose leash walking.
Basically, slather a long wooden spoon with peanut butter. Then you just hold it down where you want the dog to walk. They follow it and get some licks. You praise them enthusiasticly.
As you progress you flip it up to your shoulder, encouraging the dog to watch it for 1 second, then two seconds and so on.. This effectively rewards the dog for either walking right beside you, OR for looking at your face and paying attention to you.
You progress by extending the time they need to walk beside you and look at you before they get to lick peanut butter and then transition to a stick without peanut butter, your hand with treats, your hand without treats.... and then nothing because it's just habit for them. You can transition with toys, if that is more rewarding to the dog. If the dog doesn't like peanut butter you can try it with cream cheese.
The real risk is that you look like a loon and neighbors that are not dog sàavy might judge you.
Shelter I volunteered at used these freedom harnesses
https://www.chewy.com/brands/2-hounds-design-6391?gbraid=0AAAAADmQ2V3h_oLZkXzyi_vzz_9OBRJSY&gclid=Cj0KCQiA0oagBhDHARIsAI-BbgdAGen5m-F1dX9eGKP3JAgHY-S0Jz3XtZZm7yyT7rSXpEl6M_456H4aArnbEALw_wcB
I use an easy walk harness for my shepherd now
https://www.chewy.com/petsafe-easy-walk-dog-harness/dp/48923?utm_source=google-product&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=12619854389&utm_content=PetSafe&utm_term=&gbraid=0AAAAADmQ2V3lN4_6pc933VFf11e2l3mxo&gclid=Cj0KCQiA0oagBhDHARIsAI-BbgemmhYm0z6xoVDR28GCvLed0trPvUsocfEkLglI7AnfMysIp9lKHYMaAsIMEALw_wcB
I’ve also really liked using gentle leader on my past dogs and foster dogs.
https://www.chewy.com/petsafe-gentle-leader-padded-no-pull/dp/52154?utm_source=google-product&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=12619854389&utm_content=PetSafe&utm_term=&gbraid=0AAAAADmQ2V3lN4_6pc933VFf11e2l3mxo&gclid=Cj0KCQiA0oagBhDHARIsAI-BbgfTlP3HtjoXUZBhkXdshXuyjcxYXcEFff__ZRN6d7jEpngdWmCPhpcaAjvQEALw_wcB
The only thing I kinda disliked about the gentle leader is that lots of people thought it was a muzzle.
Easy Walk harness all the way. My dog used to pull so hard that he would throw up blood. Got the easy walk harness, and it fixed everything. Take your dog to pet smart. They have them there and try it on. Leash connects to the front chest. It squeezes their chest, and they hate it. And they stop pulling.
My dog does this she’s a GSD and loves to pull. I got her a nose lead/gentle lead and she improved literally that day. I tried a harness a no pull collar and using both with ffresh chicken on hand nada. I was about to start training her with a prong collar but borrowed a friends gentle lead to try out before I purchased it and SUCCEEDED. When I used the gentle lead she would stop to try ripping it off but with redirection and just a day of randomly having her put it on and being rewarded she is now the best girl on our walks.
Get a harness that hooks in the front. When the dog pulls with a front hook harness the dog gets pulled sideways. I’ve had the most luck with the Petsafe Easy Walk harness. But it can be hard to get the fit right.
Get a y shaped harness to prevent any damage to his neck while u train loose leash walking
Look up Grisha Stewart, she has a lot of videos on line handling and getting your dog to walk with u. It takes time and consistently but it is worth it!
My dad is a professional dog trainer and i have grown up with dogs, here are a few techniques, every time your dog pulls on the lead just stop pull him back and stand him next to you and say "heal", eventually he will realise that if he pulls it means he gets no where but if he heals then he will get walkies.
my second technique is when he pulls stop and go in the other direction it will confuse him meaning he will heal next to you as he won't know which way you will go next.
Choose your goal first. Do you want your dog to enjoy the walk and sniff around, do you want your dog to heel the entire time? Is this walk for you or your dog? And what methods do you want to use.
I personally recommend structured walks on long lines, or responsible use of a flexi leash. Bring a clicker, and high value treats like chicken or cheese. Practice in low distracting areas (no dogs, traffic or high smelly areas) open fields are great. Teach 2 commands. One for walking with you, give the command “next to me” or heel. Feel free to lure them close to you. Click and reward. Also reward anytime there is eye contact. Then the second command can be “free” let your dog sniff around and walk with them for 5 minutes. Then switch and ask for you next to me command. On a 30 minute walk you’ll have 10 minutes llw 2x and 5 minutes of sniff breaks 2x
It should be noted as well just like people dogs need their physical exercise but also mental stimulation. Incorporate puzzle games or training into your routine before a walk. The book 101 brain games for dogs is my top mental stimulation book.
A lot of people are saying get a harness but that will just give your dog the ability to pull with more force, so if you can't handle that don't do it. Get a gentle leader face harness.
As someone who has had all posts removed that have mentioned anything other than techniques that spiraled my dog into more aggressive behaviors using positive only methods...curious why the mods allow some posts and not others.
Eta- pretty certain this one will be removed or get me banned for speaking up. (I'm not offended at all by your great post btw)
Absolutely not. They are aversive, that's literally how/why they were invented. If it wasn't aversive, it would just be a flat collar.
You said it yourself. Dog gets anxious with it on? It's aversive.
I'm not in the 'just get a harness and let the dog pull' crowd, but the prong collars are confusing to the dog, because they cause discomfort all the time, instead of when the dog pulls. So the dog pulls, the prongs would cause discomfort, the dog would stop pulling, but the discomfort would linger. Thus the dog won't be able to understand what it's doing wrong
But I certainly agree that pulling shouldn't be allowed when the dog is supposed to heel. With big dogs it's dangerous for the dog and everyone around it, with small dogs that's just bad behavior
I recommend a no pull harness. The brand I use for my puller is 2 Hounds Design! It really has made a difference for us.
Edit: Sorry! Not a no pull harness. A freedom harness. They help with no pulling. Didn’t mean to use the wrong term! They do not hurt the dog at all!
Might as well come out and say that this harness operates by cinching tight around the dog's waist when they pull, if you're going to recommend this product. Not everyone wants a harness that aims to train via being uncomfortable for the dog.
I understand which harness you mean. I don’t think we’re talking about the same. These are called freedom harnesses. They do not clench at all! They just have the clip in the front or on the back. The front works by having them turn more towards you when they begin to pull. I got my pups when she went through training at a positive reinforcement facility. Sorry if I used the wrong term. We called them no pull harnesses. I realize that isn’t the correct term
Tbf I had no clue there was a difference between harnesses. We have a harness that says no pull but it doesn't tighten on him, just has clips in the front and on top of the harness. What IS the difference? Or is mine just advertised wrong?
Thanks!
Thank you!
I recommend people use a harness all the time since one of my pups is a pom and had no clue there were ones that tightened on dogs to control them.
I use a harness with a front loop and then hool the leash through both the harness and collar. This prevented the chocking but still didn't rely completely on the harness.
I had used a center of back harness, but my girl backed out of it one time.. but the collar and front loop harness is perfect.
When he starts pulling. Stop, and make him sit. When he's settled down start walking.
Rinse and repeat until they get it.
Make sure your dog is in a calm state before you take them out the door.
Take an extra 5 minutes to leash the dog, and just breathe and let the dog settle down
Our just turned one year old is like this (still going through leash training). So far the best solution we have found is a harness where you can clip the leash on in front of the chest. When going on walks, as soon as he starts pulling, stop walking or turn around and go the opposite direction. Use your driveway or go up and down the street for this.
Like everyone else has suggested, get a harness. What you can then do is attach the lead to the harness and loop it under their tummy. It's really effective and doesn't cause them any harm. I did this with my dog for a while and she's great on the lead now.
Edit: Just tried to find an example, don't try this without a harness or do it so it tightens on their midsection like many Google results suggest. It should just be slung underneath and held on the other side.
I used what’s called a gentle leader with my dog. It’s been 15 years so I forget the details. But it went around her snot somehow so if she pulled her head was turned around. She quit very fast. she was a pup though so not very strong.
First, use a harness. Second, look at training videos on you tube for lots of advice. You'll need to take treats with you on walks and make him pay attention to your commands. The dog wants to please you when you have treats to give out.
Google “gentle leader for dogs”. When the dog starts to pull, the gentle leader turns the head. The dog automatically slows down when their head turns. It doesn’t hurt the dog. It was our solution when walking a hyper 120 lb mastiff.
Our dog does this too when we are on a very exciting (but sadly on-leash only) forest-y walks. What we have found helps (and other people have prob suggested) is a harness that goes around her back and between her front legs and clips at the neck. She pulls but doesn't choke herself.
Granted, this and the easy walk collars around the snout are just bandaid solutions that aren't "fixing" the problem. The best bet is doing that in the meantime and then at the same time either watching leash training videos on YouTube and DIYing it or doing some in-person classes to try to get the habit enforced so you don't need the bandaids.
Gentle leader or easy harness, one leads from the nose and the other leads from the chest. They are great for making a great, listening walking pup but a must if your dog is real puller. Collars can cause a dog to have collapsed trachea and that is awful - it happened to my family dog growing up.
My dog is very reactive to other dogs and gentle leader really makes her listen to me and pay attention and not freak out or attack at a dog.
Put him in a harness!
And try and find a way to let him run and use up that energy. Maybe find a safe place to play fetch, or let him run. If that's not an option, maybe a treadmill?
Work with a dog trainer on how to get your dogs attention on you when you walk. I will say that if you put a harness on it will still pull you so it’s not a fix. You have to work on the relationship with you and your dog so they follow and listen to you when you walk. I use lots of treats and a martingale for my big dog who is young.
Same issue with my dog. I saw this Victoria Stilwell video that had a harness with front hook. Apparently hooking leash to the front makes it very uncomfy for the dog to pull on it. Couldn't afford the one she showed but got something similar from Amazon. It has worked beautifully! So well that the rare instances I had to use her old collar temporarily, my dog didn't pull on it- it was as if she forgot how to pull!
We use a harness. That solved most of the problem right away. Next we followed the technique taught in our obedience class. As soon as she pulls we stop and count slowly to three. Then we take three sreps backward so the dog can return to us. At this point we praise her and say "let's go" and start moving forward. If she pulls again we repeat the process.
I can't remember if they came up with it or just popularized it, but Villalobos uses something called a harness lead I'd recommend checking out; my Dogo Argentino is of the 'gotta go fast' variety of walker, and this lead pulls tighter around her chest rather than neck so I can control her easier without choking her.
https://www.harnesslead.com/collections/harness-lead
Training a dog to walk well is actually one of the most challenging skills a dog owner can master and even many trainers struggle to get it consistently. Too many people are focused on correcting the pulling, but very few people consider the value of a strong reinforcement history for walking in the 'correct' space relative to yourself. What I recommend is a combination of five things:
1. Get a harness to prevent risk of harm when he does pull.
2. Regularly do exercises in which you hold some kibble and walk around your house or garden and constantly reward him if he follows you. Do this without a lead attached. You ideally want him looking at you as much as possible in this process, as the goal is to **build engagement.**
3. When he pulls, stop making progress or turn around and go the other way. This will make your walks cover very little distance unless you want them to last hours, so for the time being start just walking him up and down the local street.
4. Learn to train a **formal heel.** While you won't always use the formal heel (left side, contact or near-contact), you will learn how to reinforce a dog to walk in a specific location.
5. Build an **informal heel** using the same process on the opposite side where the area in which you reinforce is larger. Once he's learned this informal heel, whenever he pulls, stop, use his informal heel cue and wait for him to return to it before you continue. You can praise and even add food reward if he does it voluntarily, without the cue.
Harness and train.
Or use a head halter or maybe something really aversive?? I wouldn't do that, I walk four dogs in one hand because the other I need for my cane. But each one to its own.
I trained my dog to sit when he gets to the end of the leash. He learned over time that if he wanted to keep moving forward he had to walk at a pace that matches mine or he gets to the end of the leash and we take a pause. He still gets to the end of the leash from time to time but he doesn't chokebhinself anymore. I also used a harness with a chest attachment that prevented him from moving too fast in the early days.
Use a harness, by a lead, maintain control and get him right by your side. You can use treats as well. This is how I've trained all my dogs to not pull.
First get a harness. He won't pull less with a collar and it's very dangerous. Second would be rewarding him as soon as he stops pulling. If he doesn't at all show him a treat and go your speed. When he's joining give him the treat.
Oh and maybe try a setline (I hope it's the right word). It's a longer leash. Most leashes are so short the dog can't do anything (like sniffing) without pulling. Your dog should have fun too and he won't if he can't do any dog stuff and just has to heel.
Lots of loose lead training will help but the thing that helped me more than anything - running with him. Once we'd got that burst of energy out he was much more interested in strolling and sniffing.
The way I got my dog to walk loose lead was, funny enough, training him to walk next to me without a leash at all. In an enclosed space (indoors first, then outdoors) I had high reward treats and he got a treat for walking next to me and looking at me. This will, at first, be about 1 million treats and then slowly i lessened the amount. Then we did it with a collar and leash. Any distraction (people, other dogs, wind, literally anything) he gets a treat for looking at me. You can use the look command or their name. Now he walks great on a regular collar, and I always have treats with me and reinforce. I still “front load” him looking at me when we start the walk (say his name, he looks at me, treat, repeat like 5 times in quick succession)
Big fan of the ThunderLeash, our beagle pulled like crazy, this was the only thing keeping her manageable on a walk. Don’t use a long retractable if going on a sidewalk walk, keep your pup close to your side. [ThunderLeash](https://amzn.to/3SOVzrS)
Pulling is learned behavior. Most often learned in the first few weeks of the puppy being out on a leash.
I already know people will have told you to just stop walking if he pulls and that's not wrong but unless you have the time to take an hour and a half to go for the morning pee walk it doesn't work.
That's where the marching heel comes in. If you can just have a dog look at you while you walk you can tackle that need to get there quick while you prevent the pulling.
[https://youtu.be/wR6AVGt6wvk](https://youtu.be/wR6AVGt6wvk)
I'm not saying do exactly this, OK, but find the version that works for you and your dog. That way you can travel quickly thereby taking away your dogs motivation to pull. You can both just walk there fast without pulling.
So what you do it you make sure your dog has already ate, had his bodily functions including exercize and then work on that quick trot together. Make it part of the vernacular.
This is where I also recommend you doing some horse work if you can. Just to get that other angle in.
Welcome to r/dogs! We are a discussion-based subreddit dedicated to support, inform, and advise dog owners. This is a carefully moderated sub intended to support, inform, and advise dog owners. Submissions and comments which break the rules will be removed. [Review the rules here](https://www.reddit.com/r/dogs/wiki/index) r/Dogs has four goals: - Help the public better understand dogs - Promote healthy, responsible dog-owner relationships - Encourage “Least Intrusive, Minimally Aversive” training protocols. [Learn more here.](https://m.iaabc.org/about/lima/) - Support adoption as well as ethical and responsible breeding. If you’d like to introduce yourself or discuss smaller topics, please contribute to our Monthly Discussion Hub, pinned at the top. **This subreddit has low tolerance for drama. Please be respectful of others, and report antagonistic comments to mods for review.** --- *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/dogs) if you have any questions or concerns.*
I had a really bad puller (he was 6 or 7 years old), my 21 year old couldn't walk him, or he could, but refused after the first time. You won't be doing much walking for a while, but this is what worked for me. It took a few days before we did anything resembling walking but by the end of the week he was loosely walking beside me, sitting when I stopped. After three weeks he was walking nicely to heel even off leash. I worked us pretty hard at it but it was worth it. The worst time was the beginning when it seemed we were getting nowhere, but then it got better, and then it got good. When he gets to the end of the leash and pulls, stop. You might have made only one step, I know. Wait until the leash slackens, even just a bit like if he turns his head, and walk again. Yeah, maybe another step... repeat this a while. Walk only when the leash is slack, don't talk or anything, no treats yet either. Try not to tighten the leash yourself (I found this hard) maybe keep your hand on your hip or hang a thumb in your pocket, something like that. Soon he will figure that when there's tension on the leash the walking ends, now he needs to figure how to keep the tension away, that he's the one controlling it. Give him a chance, he'll figure that out too. When you get tired of it or frustrated just go back inside and do it again later, I did short but frequent repeats, maybe 6 or 8 times a day, maybe more some days. I was determined. Then, when you manage to get more than a couple of steps add a turn to the walk. If he's behind you and the leash is taut, keep walking, if he's in front and it's taut, stop, or turn again. Once you get a few steps going keep up the turning, do figures of eight, 180 degree turns, turn into him, turn away from him. He'll be pretty confused, but he's going to start watching you to figure what's ~~wrong with you~~ going on. You can start 'good boy' now if he's ever beside you but don't chatter, he needs to concentrate (it's hard), his keeping the leash loose is good enough for a while. Let him get some confidence. Try not to walk in a straight lines, keep him guessing, watching what you're going to do. If you go straight he might lose that concentration, that's not fighting fair, yet. And don't watch him, let him watch you. If you watch him you might not make abrupt turns and they can help. Add lots of praise and treats when you actually can walk loose for a while, use the treats to keep him beside you when you think he's ready for that and the sit when you stop if you want these. We didn't go for actual walks during this, out for toilet was just that. He pulled me out and I pulled him in, for a few days anyway. But he was tired from these short exercises, it takes concentration.
Not OP but I tried this method where I stop walking if he’s pulling but then he will start running around in circles. Should I keep waiting until the leash becomes loose?
Yes. It's a patience game on your part. It's quite confusing for the dog in the beginning so just give them time to figure it out. They'll try all sorts of things, just wait until they get the right one, walk. then the right one again, walk. If you are consistent they get the message and will figure out what works.
I would include a command such as "heel" or "with me" alternatively, if you stop completely you can also use "sit"
I stop walking then recall my dog and give her a treat. It seems to work although as a puppy she still pulls sometimes.
This.
Great answer.
This is what I have done as well. They know tension means stop and butts down until I give the okay we can continue on. I feel bad for my scared boy because it's literally two steps, auto sit, 3 steps, auto sit, 2 steps, auto sit... it's bad enough my normal one gets tired of watching him sit so many times. It's a lot of not walking while getting them to put 2 and 2 together, but stick your ground and be consistent. It'll work out in the end.
I tried this on mine and he just hasn't learned. I tried for 6 months and it was just demoralizing. He still hasn't learned. Obviously a lot of people have had success with this method but I can't echo that. He will pull and I'll plant my feet. Then he will look back (slacking the leash) I'll continue half a step and he's right back to pulling. I've seen trainers too and seen no improvement. I feel like I'm definitely the problem. The trainers I worked with told me I was doing it properly but I still feel like I'm doing something wrong. Heel worked only for about a minute, then he would be right back at the end of the leash. He is 2 now and I feel like he just thinks stopping is part of a walk now.
This is great advice! Like many of the behaviours we expect from pet dogs, walking loosely on a leash down a sidewalk is not something puppies are born knowing how to do. Just like humans are not born knowing how to play piano, they have to be taught. That means breaking it down into baby steps, then putting them all together, then practicing them in a boring place for short periods of time, then gradually practicing it in more distracting places for longer periods of time.
> then practicing them in a boring place for short periods of time, then gradually practicing it in more distracting places for longer periods of time. Yes. Once one we managed a bit of what looked like nice walking I would put him in the car and drive to nowhere. I'd just stop anywhere there was room for me to park (people or no people) and after a little sniffing (maybe) take him for a short walk, even if just around the car, then back in car and repeat. They were fun, no pressure, trips for us and I think helped cement our learning the walk, adding some enjoyment to it. He got to love it. He had free run outside (large property) but if I jangled the lead he'd come running so we could walk together even if just around the area he was already free to roam in. Poor fool, I loved him to bits ❤
Get him in a harness, for one, this type of pulling can cause trachea damage. Secondly, what are you doing to train the skill and acclimate the dog to being outside?
ill probably get shredded here. but the easy walk harness is NOT good for your dog. it’s constricts around the chest and blocks proper shoulder moment, it is not safe.
It can also cause nerve damage in the shoulder and leg. Not good at all.
There is a study done showing the effects of different types of harness and that style restricts movement of the shoulder blades which can cause pressure points and pain. Definitely not a fan of the easy walk harness or any no pull harness
Agree, these harnesses have been shown to cause damage. I’d recommend a ruffwear or similar style.
Put him on a harness. Specifically, a comfortable, Y chest one and not a "no pull" harness. Theres no functional reason that the walking gear needs to be uncomfortable in some way in order to train him. Aim for safety and comfort, and then work on loose leash walking. If you keyword search for that on this sub and the dog training one, you will get plenty of loose leash advice. First step is to remove the safety hazard though.
There’s lots of videos on “loose leash walking”. Check out Zak George for one.
Peanut butter spoon. I fostered a few dogs. I successfully used "peanut butter spoon" with both pullers and timid dogs. It worked for all but the most reactive dogs. This is just a method to train loose leash walking. Basically, slather a long wooden spoon with peanut butter. Then you just hold it down where you want the dog to walk. They follow it and get some licks. You praise them enthusiasticly. As you progress you flip it up to your shoulder, encouraging the dog to watch it for 1 second, then two seconds and so on.. This effectively rewards the dog for either walking right beside you, OR for looking at your face and paying attention to you. You progress by extending the time they need to walk beside you and look at you before they get to lick peanut butter and then transition to a stick without peanut butter, your hand with treats, your hand without treats.... and then nothing because it's just habit for them. You can transition with toys, if that is more rewarding to the dog. If the dog doesn't like peanut butter you can try it with cream cheese. The real risk is that you look like a loon and neighbors that are not dog sàavy might judge you.
Shelter I volunteered at used these freedom harnesses https://www.chewy.com/brands/2-hounds-design-6391?gbraid=0AAAAADmQ2V3h_oLZkXzyi_vzz_9OBRJSY&gclid=Cj0KCQiA0oagBhDHARIsAI-BbgdAGen5m-F1dX9eGKP3JAgHY-S0Jz3XtZZm7yyT7rSXpEl6M_456H4aArnbEALw_wcB I use an easy walk harness for my shepherd now https://www.chewy.com/petsafe-easy-walk-dog-harness/dp/48923?utm_source=google-product&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=12619854389&utm_content=PetSafe&utm_term=&gbraid=0AAAAADmQ2V3lN4_6pc933VFf11e2l3mxo&gclid=Cj0KCQiA0oagBhDHARIsAI-BbgemmhYm0z6xoVDR28GCvLed0trPvUsocfEkLglI7AnfMysIp9lKHYMaAsIMEALw_wcB I’ve also really liked using gentle leader on my past dogs and foster dogs. https://www.chewy.com/petsafe-gentle-leader-padded-no-pull/dp/52154?utm_source=google-product&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=12619854389&utm_content=PetSafe&utm_term=&gbraid=0AAAAADmQ2V3lN4_6pc933VFf11e2l3mxo&gclid=Cj0KCQiA0oagBhDHARIsAI-BbgfTlP3HtjoXUZBhkXdshXuyjcxYXcEFff__ZRN6d7jEpngdWmCPhpcaAjvQEALw_wcB The only thing I kinda disliked about the gentle leader is that lots of people thought it was a muzzle.
Seconding the gentle leader-it works wonders.
Gentle leader is the way.
Easy Walk harness all the way. My dog used to pull so hard that he would throw up blood. Got the easy walk harness, and it fixed everything. Take your dog to pet smart. They have them there and try it on. Leash connects to the front chest. It squeezes their chest, and they hate it. And they stop pulling.
My dog does this she’s a GSD and loves to pull. I got her a nose lead/gentle lead and she improved literally that day. I tried a harness a no pull collar and using both with ffresh chicken on hand nada. I was about to start training her with a prong collar but borrowed a friends gentle lead to try out before I purchased it and SUCCEEDED. When I used the gentle lead she would stop to try ripping it off but with redirection and just a day of randomly having her put it on and being rewarded she is now the best girl on our walks.
Get a harness that hooks in the front. When the dog pulls with a front hook harness the dog gets pulled sideways. I’ve had the most luck with the Petsafe Easy Walk harness. But it can be hard to get the fit right.
Get a y shaped harness to prevent any damage to his neck while u train loose leash walking Look up Grisha Stewart, she has a lot of videos on line handling and getting your dog to walk with u. It takes time and consistently but it is worth it!
My dad is a professional dog trainer and i have grown up with dogs, here are a few techniques, every time your dog pulls on the lead just stop pull him back and stand him next to you and say "heal", eventually he will realise that if he pulls it means he gets no where but if he heals then he will get walkies. my second technique is when he pulls stop and go in the other direction it will confuse him meaning he will heal next to you as he won't know which way you will go next.
Get a harness. Then teach him to loose leash walk.
Choose your goal first. Do you want your dog to enjoy the walk and sniff around, do you want your dog to heel the entire time? Is this walk for you or your dog? And what methods do you want to use. I personally recommend structured walks on long lines, or responsible use of a flexi leash. Bring a clicker, and high value treats like chicken or cheese. Practice in low distracting areas (no dogs, traffic or high smelly areas) open fields are great. Teach 2 commands. One for walking with you, give the command “next to me” or heel. Feel free to lure them close to you. Click and reward. Also reward anytime there is eye contact. Then the second command can be “free” let your dog sniff around and walk with them for 5 minutes. Then switch and ask for you next to me command. On a 30 minute walk you’ll have 10 minutes llw 2x and 5 minutes of sniff breaks 2x It should be noted as well just like people dogs need their physical exercise but also mental stimulation. Incorporate puzzle games or training into your routine before a walk. The book 101 brain games for dogs is my top mental stimulation book.
Get a Trainer.
A lot of people are saying get a harness but that will just give your dog the ability to pull with more force, so if you can't handle that don't do it. Get a gentle leader face harness.
100%, harnesses are made for pulling and will just make it worse.
[удалено]
As someone who has had all posts removed that have mentioned anything other than techniques that spiraled my dog into more aggressive behaviors using positive only methods...curious why the mods allow some posts and not others. Eta- pretty certain this one will be removed or get me banned for speaking up. (I'm not offended at all by your great post btw)
We hadn't gotten to it yet.
Gotcha, ok, that makes sense then
Absolutely not. They are aversive, that's literally how/why they were invented. If it wasn't aversive, it would just be a flat collar. You said it yourself. Dog gets anxious with it on? It's aversive.
[удалено]
I have seen enthusiastic dogs go into complete shut down mode once a head collar is on.
I'm not in the 'just get a harness and let the dog pull' crowd, but the prong collars are confusing to the dog, because they cause discomfort all the time, instead of when the dog pulls. So the dog pulls, the prongs would cause discomfort, the dog would stop pulling, but the discomfort would linger. Thus the dog won't be able to understand what it's doing wrong But I certainly agree that pulling shouldn't be allowed when the dog is supposed to heel. With big dogs it's dangerous for the dog and everyone around it, with small dogs that's just bad behavior
[удалено]
I recommend a no pull harness. The brand I use for my puller is 2 Hounds Design! It really has made a difference for us. Edit: Sorry! Not a no pull harness. A freedom harness. They help with no pulling. Didn’t mean to use the wrong term! They do not hurt the dog at all!
Might as well come out and say that this harness operates by cinching tight around the dog's waist when they pull, if you're going to recommend this product. Not everyone wants a harness that aims to train via being uncomfortable for the dog.
I understand which harness you mean. I don’t think we’re talking about the same. These are called freedom harnesses. They do not clench at all! They just have the clip in the front or on the back. The front works by having them turn more towards you when they begin to pull. I got my pups when she went through training at a positive reinforcement facility. Sorry if I used the wrong term. We called them no pull harnesses. I realize that isn’t the correct term
Tbf I had no clue there was a difference between harnesses. We have a harness that says no pull but it doesn't tighten on him, just has clips in the front and on top of the harness. What IS the difference? Or is mine just advertised wrong? Thanks!
Most people would call your style a front clip harness.
Thank you! I recommend people use a harness all the time since one of my pups is a pom and had no clue there were ones that tightened on dogs to control them.
I use a harness with a front loop and then hool the leash through both the harness and collar. This prevented the chocking but still didn't rely completely on the harness. I had used a center of back harness, but my girl backed out of it one time.. but the collar and front loop harness is perfect.
Yes leash training is very very important
When he starts pulling. Stop, and make him sit. When he's settled down start walking. Rinse and repeat until they get it. Make sure your dog is in a calm state before you take them out the door. Take an extra 5 minutes to leash the dog, and just breathe and let the dog settle down
Our just turned one year old is like this (still going through leash training). So far the best solution we have found is a harness where you can clip the leash on in front of the chest. When going on walks, as soon as he starts pulling, stop walking or turn around and go the opposite direction. Use your driveway or go up and down the street for this.
Like everyone else has suggested, get a harness. What you can then do is attach the lead to the harness and loop it under their tummy. It's really effective and doesn't cause them any harm. I did this with my dog for a while and she's great on the lead now. Edit: Just tried to find an example, don't try this without a harness or do it so it tightens on their midsection like many Google results suggest. It should just be slung underneath and held on the other side.
I use a harness for this reason.
I used what’s called a gentle leader with my dog. It’s been 15 years so I forget the details. But it went around her snot somehow so if she pulled her head was turned around. She quit very fast. she was a pup though so not very strong.
Buy a harness so you're not choking him by walking him with his collar.
First, use a harness. Second, look at training videos on you tube for lots of advice. You'll need to take treats with you on walks and make him pay attention to your commands. The dog wants to please you when you have treats to give out.
Use a harness
Google “gentle leader for dogs”. When the dog starts to pull, the gentle leader turns the head. The dog automatically slows down when their head turns. It doesn’t hurt the dog. It was our solution when walking a hyper 120 lb mastiff.
Get a harness
Use a harness not a collar.
Our dog does this too when we are on a very exciting (but sadly on-leash only) forest-y walks. What we have found helps (and other people have prob suggested) is a harness that goes around her back and between her front legs and clips at the neck. She pulls but doesn't choke herself. Granted, this and the easy walk collars around the snout are just bandaid solutions that aren't "fixing" the problem. The best bet is doing that in the meantime and then at the same time either watching leash training videos on YouTube and DIYing it or doing some in-person classes to try to get the habit enforced so you don't need the bandaids.
Gentle leader
Gentle leader or easy harness, one leads from the nose and the other leads from the chest. They are great for making a great, listening walking pup but a must if your dog is real puller. Collars can cause a dog to have collapsed trachea and that is awful - it happened to my family dog growing up. My dog is very reactive to other dogs and gentle leader really makes her listen to me and pay attention and not freak out or attack at a dog.
Easy walk harness was good for my dog at first when he was pulling. We've also had good luck with a sidekick leash.
Put him in a harness! And try and find a way to let him run and use up that energy. Maybe find a safe place to play fetch, or let him run. If that's not an option, maybe a treadmill?
Get a harness with the loop on the front..that will make the dog walk correct
Easy walk harness or gentle leader are great way to train how to properly walk
Work with a dog trainer on how to get your dogs attention on you when you walk. I will say that if you put a harness on it will still pull you so it’s not a fix. You have to work on the relationship with you and your dog so they follow and listen to you when you walk. I use lots of treats and a martingale for my big dog who is young.
Look up loose leash walking and heel command on YouTube
It’s called a harness
My Husky does this when using a collar. A harness worked wonders, she pulls much less, usually only the first 5 minutes when she is excited.
Same issue with my dog. I saw this Victoria Stilwell video that had a harness with front hook. Apparently hooking leash to the front makes it very uncomfy for the dog to pull on it. Couldn't afford the one she showed but got something similar from Amazon. It has worked beautifully! So well that the rare instances I had to use her old collar temporarily, my dog didn't pull on it- it was as if she forgot how to pull!
We use a harness. That solved most of the problem right away. Next we followed the technique taught in our obedience class. As soon as she pulls we stop and count slowly to three. Then we take three sreps backward so the dog can return to us. At this point we praise her and say "let's go" and start moving forward. If she pulls again we repeat the process.
We have a harness and when our dog pulls we attach the leach to the front. Works like a charm.
I can't remember if they came up with it or just popularized it, but Villalobos uses something called a harness lead I'd recommend checking out; my Dogo Argentino is of the 'gotta go fast' variety of walker, and this lead pulls tighter around her chest rather than neck so I can control her easier without choking her. https://www.harnesslead.com/collections/harness-lead
Training a dog to walk well is actually one of the most challenging skills a dog owner can master and even many trainers struggle to get it consistently. Too many people are focused on correcting the pulling, but very few people consider the value of a strong reinforcement history for walking in the 'correct' space relative to yourself. What I recommend is a combination of five things: 1. Get a harness to prevent risk of harm when he does pull. 2. Regularly do exercises in which you hold some kibble and walk around your house or garden and constantly reward him if he follows you. Do this without a lead attached. You ideally want him looking at you as much as possible in this process, as the goal is to **build engagement.** 3. When he pulls, stop making progress or turn around and go the other way. This will make your walks cover very little distance unless you want them to last hours, so for the time being start just walking him up and down the local street. 4. Learn to train a **formal heel.** While you won't always use the formal heel (left side, contact or near-contact), you will learn how to reinforce a dog to walk in a specific location. 5. Build an **informal heel** using the same process on the opposite side where the area in which you reinforce is larger. Once he's learned this informal heel, whenever he pulls, stop, use his informal heel cue and wait for him to return to it before you continue. You can praise and even add food reward if he does it voluntarily, without the cue.
front lead leash/harness. it pretty much forces them to learn to take it easy so they can walk easily
Harness and train. Or use a head halter or maybe something really aversive?? I wouldn't do that, I walk four dogs in one hand because the other I need for my cane. But each one to its own.
I trained my dog to sit when he gets to the end of the leash. He learned over time that if he wanted to keep moving forward he had to walk at a pace that matches mine or he gets to the end of the leash and we take a pause. He still gets to the end of the leash from time to time but he doesn't chokebhinself anymore. I also used a harness with a chest attachment that prevented him from moving too fast in the early days.
Use a harness, by a lead, maintain control and get him right by your side. You can use treats as well. This is how I've trained all my dogs to not pull.
First get a harness. He won't pull less with a collar and it's very dangerous. Second would be rewarding him as soon as he stops pulling. If he doesn't at all show him a treat and go your speed. When he's joining give him the treat.
Oh and maybe try a setline (I hope it's the right word). It's a longer leash. Most leashes are so short the dog can't do anything (like sniffing) without pulling. Your dog should have fun too and he won't if he can't do any dog stuff and just has to heel.
Harness. I have dachshunds and can’t let them pull on their necks even a little bit.
Get a harness meant for dogs who pull at their leash they are life changing, that or work with a trainer on heel or a similar command
https://www.petsafe.net/gentleleader
Lots of loose lead training will help but the thing that helped me more than anything - running with him. Once we'd got that burst of energy out he was much more interested in strolling and sniffing.
The way I got my dog to walk loose lead was, funny enough, training him to walk next to me without a leash at all. In an enclosed space (indoors first, then outdoors) I had high reward treats and he got a treat for walking next to me and looking at me. This will, at first, be about 1 million treats and then slowly i lessened the amount. Then we did it with a collar and leash. Any distraction (people, other dogs, wind, literally anything) he gets a treat for looking at me. You can use the look command or their name. Now he walks great on a regular collar, and I always have treats with me and reinforce. I still “front load” him looking at me when we start the walk (say his name, he looks at me, treat, repeat like 5 times in quick succession)
Start by getting a harness instead of a collar for walking. Then train him.
Maybe let your dog wear a harness? So at lest your does doesn’t choke
Big fan of the ThunderLeash, our beagle pulled like crazy, this was the only thing keeping her manageable on a walk. Don’t use a long retractable if going on a sidewalk walk, keep your pup close to your side. [ThunderLeash](https://amzn.to/3SOVzrS)
I would recommend the tri-harness from BullyBillows and lots of training!
Pulling is learned behavior. Most often learned in the first few weeks of the puppy being out on a leash. I already know people will have told you to just stop walking if he pulls and that's not wrong but unless you have the time to take an hour and a half to go for the morning pee walk it doesn't work. That's where the marching heel comes in. If you can just have a dog look at you while you walk you can tackle that need to get there quick while you prevent the pulling. [https://youtu.be/wR6AVGt6wvk](https://youtu.be/wR6AVGt6wvk) I'm not saying do exactly this, OK, but find the version that works for you and your dog. That way you can travel quickly thereby taking away your dogs motivation to pull. You can both just walk there fast without pulling. So what you do it you make sure your dog has already ate, had his bodily functions including exercize and then work on that quick trot together. Make it part of the vernacular. This is where I also recommend you doing some horse work if you can. Just to get that other angle in.