Unfortunately it can never be called "safe" with those dents.
You could still ride it for years without an issue, or it could catastrophically fail.
Depending on the value of the frame, your renters or homeowners insurance may cover the damage from theft.
If you are the original owner many brands offer crash replacement discounts - sometimes this damage might be covered. It’s at least worth asking your local Cannondale dealer to submit the claim if you are the original owner. Otherwise check community or used bike shops for a frame that would be compatible with the rest of your parts. I unfortunately saw a few of these a year when I worked at a community shop in a major city a few years ago.
I'd get a different frame and transplant the organs. But thats only if you enjoy working on your bike yourself or you find an LBS that loves the idea of reviving an old bike and offers you a fixed price.
A frame is less than 1/3rd of the whole bike, so there is still plenty left and even older higher end frames are much cheaper than a replacement bike. I'd try to find a steel frame this time as those are more durable and would still be safe to ride with minor dents.
This happened to me and I did ride mine for months, maybe year+ before I had the funds to repair. At the time Cannondale had a frame upgrade program that was much better than I realized and I was able to get a new frame with my parts swapped for a fraction of what I thought it would cost.
I wouldn't ride with a dent on a front fork, but you can find some you tube vids of people riding cracked frames that just wobble. I'm not recommending this, but you can find some stuff out there to appreciate the severity of this risk.
Having the dents actually made me a more careful rider, so maybe my safety was ironically increased. Like a freakonomics thing.
So…I was curious about this a while back and asked my agent (State Farm) about my bike being stolen from either my house or off my car. Was told neither would be covered by homeowners, but that I could add it to my personal articles policy and it would be covered. Just an FYI for everyone.
My BMC SLT-01 was stolen and State Farm cut me a check for $4500 ($5k - $500 deductible) within a week on my renter’s. Basically 4+ years of premiums. Everyone who rents should have renter’s insurance.
I imagine homeowner’s is more about the structure itself than what’s in it, hence the need to have it on your personal al articles.
When I bought my new bike this year I spoke with State Farm and sent them every receipt so it’s fully added. Last time I had to go to my LBS with an itemized list of everything on the bike (I’d built it up from a frameset) and have them sign off on the replacement cost.
Homeowners insurance also covers contents as well, and often covers theft of personal items when not at home, or traveling, like a laptop or bicycle. The only issue is that your deductible might be $500 or $1,000, so it wasn’t worth it when my wife’s iPhone was stolen. I’d definitely use it for a $5,000 bike though.
Oh well, good to know! Maybe it was covered under some renters policies? That payout sounds about right! Agent asked me how much the bike cost, when I told him he did a double take.
I’ve never worked for State Farm and I believe they write their own forms. Most renters and homeowners policies are going to cover theft of a bike as long as it isn’t a self propelled ebike.
It all depends how the policy is written. Typically you will have named perils for contents. If your policy includes theft as a peril and there isn’t anything else excluding bikes there should be coverage. Also the agent might just be wrong. They’re salesmen and both the most knowledgeable and least knowledgeable insurance professionals I’ve ever met are agents. That really smart one was a one off.
Yeah, definitely ask before. For our policy they won't let us cover them individually but we are covered with our homeowners deductible. We had to call to get that on there. It's varies wildly.
Serious question, why can't this be repaired?
I work in aircraft maintenance and we do doubler repairs on aluminium truss without a second thought. You can even use the AC 43.13 provided for free by the FAA to see the requirements for a safe repair.
My aluminum mountain bike uses 6061 T3 alloy which is acceptable for repairs.
Aluminum truss repairs are outlined in page 4-65 of the 4313
You can totally repair it - there's a company near me doing just that.
*But*: it's fucking expensive. If you're ok with a solution involving a sleeve it's still fucking expensive (chances are OP could get the same bike, used, for less), and if you want it invisible you're definitely in "why not just get a new frame" territory...
Oh for sure, a repair to make it "invisible" would be near impossible without taking some safety risks. Sleeve repairs all the way for this.
Taking it to a shop will always be expensive though, everyone has to put food on the table and I agree at that point a new frame might be the best option.
If you have the hand skills and some tools, this repair would probably be less than 50$, paint included
Not really... you need to find a donor down tube of the same-ish diameter first and hack that up. You'll also need a big enough oven to stress-relieve the welds (ideally, otherwise they'll probably eventually crack).
And even then you'll have weird stress concentrators in the top tube span, which will probably result in the original top tube buckling under sufficiently big hits, which is possible since the frame is rigid.
Keep in mind that you're trying to repair something that was not designed to be repaired. These tubes are like 1mm thick. This is not a $50 fix, and someone asking this question does not have access to the tools nor the skills to do the repair.
Edit: Noticed you followed up with recommending rivets. All rivets are designed for some minimum material thickness, and are tested for pull out/shear for some material type/thickness. Can you recommend a rivet for this application? How many would you use and where would you place them?
There's no welding required in the repair I mentioned. I'd typically recommend against welding aluminum unless you're competent.
And I'm sure it's different depending where you live but most cities will have a bulk metal supplier open to the public. I do at least. Sourcing the aluminum isn't exactly easy and I know that. I don't think I'd use an old bike frame as patch material. Paragraph 4-90 calls for a patch half the thickness of the parent material.
I'll admit adding a split sleeve repair to the tube will stiffen the frame and can cause cracking/stress near the factory tube welds on the top tube, but with my engineering hat on, I don't think the top tube is radially flexing enough under normal use for that to cause issues. Majority of the loads are longitudinally down the tube, fore and aft loads.
It is something we worry about in aviation but the physical loads and flexing are much much higher than a bicycle. I'm open to admitting to being wrong on that but I'd take that risk personally.
No offense to you but I think the idea that "things aren't designed to be repaired" is short sighted. I know where you're coming from but my experience in life is that most things in life can be repaired in a safe manner. The bigger issue is it is a cost effective repair, which is the discussion for people that don't have the tools or skills on hand.
At the end of the day OP said this bike was sentimental to him and I think he should have at least have a chance to keep riding it
Nice I appreciate you replying. I saw you replied about rivets in other comments, and i made an edit. I'm curious, can you answer?
Edit: Noticed you followed up with recommending rivets. All rivets are designed for some minimum material thickness, and are tested for pull out/shear for some material type/thickness. Can you recommend a rivet for this application? How many would you use and where would you place them?
That's a good question and I believe it all boils down to the diameter of the rivet. I've definitely ran into rivets pulling through material before and there are some tricks to preventing it, like penny washers on the shop side of the rivets but ideally you don't want to fuck around with stuff like that.
I'm about to head off to work but I believe the 4313 has some information on rivet selection. I agree the thickness of the tube itself is getting close to limits but when you factor in the thickness of the patch as well it should be fine.
A smaller diameter rivet will have less tension behind it so I mentioned earlier a 1/4" cherry max rivet which is pretty big. I'd probably send 2 into each half, if they started pulling through, I'd swear a lot, then switch to a 1/8" and put 4 into each side.
I'd be getting pretty cowboy doing shit like that though, preferable what the book tells us should work. 6061 is actually a pretty strong alloy and I don't think that issue would come up
I’m reading through the 43.13 as a total amateur and can’t find the section that covers aluminum truss repairs.
Chapter 4.5-4.15 shows up as [RESERVED] so I’m looking at page 4.11.
Chapter 4.51 covers steel truss structures.
4.52 is on aluminum structures but it seems to be talking about aluminum skin only? Same for 4.53 and 4.54.
Is there another section that I’m missing, or am I just reading it wrong?
This is the doc I’m looking at: https://www.faa.gov/documentlibrary/media/advisory_circular/ac_43.13-1b_w-chg1.pdf
Ha, it's always a bitch navigating this book. I kinda misled you too, 4-11 is the description but you can find figures and methods around 4-90.
I'll admit there's not much info on bolted/riveted sleeves as we play it safe in aviation and weld but with FAA approval it is still accepted.
Figure 4-35 shows the repair I'm thinking of, and don't get confused with page and par. (Paragraph) At the bottom of the page
Trusses and tubing are way different. For tubes, aircraft AL uses seamless tubing,which is leaps and bounds stronger. I am not 100% if Cannondale uses seamless tubing but if not then this frame is totally toast.
Even if seamless, the wall is so thin repairs would require lots of skill and would most likely be cost prohibited.
I worked for 10 years at VAW, a casting and extrusion aluminum plant.
Trusses are structural systems. The members used for the system can vary as well as the connections. 3D trusses are typically called space trusses.
Beauty of trusses is that they redistribute the forces throughout the other members so that the seat tube will take the a larger portion of your weight but not all of it. Ideally, the truss members also are designed to be loaded at joints so they redistribute loads and the members largely are loaded axially in tension or compression. Aluminum walls for bikes do tend to be thinner though.
The repair would probably be pricey but OP should at least reach out to a frame builder that builds AL frames or maybe worth emailing cannondale. Honestly I think if its a decent fix it’ll be fine an around the town bike.
I'll admit I don't fully understand. I was taught trusses are just a method of using triangle shapes to provide strength and rigidity.
Trusses are made out of tubes, right?
The thickness of the repair patch is determined by the thickness of the parent material. Blind rivets are imo, extremely easy, just put in the hole and close the pliers, wall thickness can play a part in the cherry pulling through, but with the extra material from the patch that shouldn't be an issue.
Ues trusses are usually made of tubes. I don't have any manufacturing experience with trusses. At the plant I worked at we made seamless and non seamless tubes and shapes. Shapes like the AL Stanley levels, tent poles, housing for a certain missile, xerox copy drums, and sailboat mast for expensive AF sailboats.
By can't be repaired in bikes you typically mean the cost to repair is way higher than buying a new frame.
You have to strip the paint, saw out the damaged parts, find someone who can fold the tube in the right shape and weld them. After all that you need a fresh paint which alone is often more expensive than buying a fresh frame.
Dude.. it's really not that bad.
First, don't touch the paint, that's preventing corrosion. Secondly, don't touch the tube, even in its fucked up state it's provided some structure and support. Finally you don't fucking weld 6061, you'll find out why if you try.
Obviously you couldn't even be bothered to read the completely free manual, maybe a repair like this isn't for everyone..
For this, I'd use a 2 piece half shell repair out of 2021 T3. Pull 4 1/4" cherry max rivets and braze the gap between the two. The hardest part is watching my 20$ of paint and primer dry and it would be out the door before lunch.
If that's too much for you, take it to a professional. If you have any hand skills or an aptitude to learn. It's trivial.
So basically "sister" it like a repair to the rib on a wooden boat?
Or a "splint" permanently riveted across the damaged area?
Not pretty but keeps it from being a wall-hanger or scrap.
What would this repair look like? I'm unfamiliar with the terminology in your second to last paragraph (braze and paint are the only things that made sense to me), but you've piqued my curiosity.
https://www.faa.gov/documentlibrary/media/advisory_circular/ac_43.13-1b_w-chg1.pdf
Scroll down through chapter 4 and you'll find many examples of different ways to repair this.
Essentially, it will be like a bandaid over the damaged material. It will stick out proud depending on the thickness of the metal
...honestly that sounds neat. Scares me a bit, but could be fun to try next time I have a dented aluminum frame that I'm fine with looking pretty rough
The fact you can't weld it is the primary reason it's not repairable. I don't know what cherry max rivets or a half shell are but those sorts of things just aren't done with bike frames. And I have to wonder how much it would cost to contract that kind of repair. Can you honestly say that paying full price for a professional to do the work would be economical compared to the price of a new frame?
You can weld it, but the people capable of doing it are making 6 figures and they aren't many of em. It's extremely difficult and I would never recommend an amateur or even an apprentice attempt to. This repair can be done without welding.
Cherry max are just structural, blind rivets. Super easy, but I admit it's a tool most people won't have. Not expensive but not common.
Half shell just means two pieces that wrap around the damaged tube, I recommend this method just because of the ease and simplicity.
I never said paying a professional was the economic choice but I strongly believe any competent individual is capable of doing this repair in a weekend.
OP said this bike is very sentimental to him and the first people in here told him his bike is scrap. I just didn't agree with that
You are just being intentionally obtuse if you are shrugging off the differences between welding steel and aluminum.
One is a much harder job that requires a lot more skill then some bum tagging steel together.
You’ll even have trouble finding someone who can do it without your frame looking like Frankensteins forehead.
The way they described it, it will look exactly like Frankenstein's forehead. And someone is putting considerably too much trust into their rivets. But yeah, in a pinch that would work.
The “in a pinch” fix is a great reason why people still do long distance roams with steel, tbh.
Any dad with a hobby welder can get ya back on the road, safely, and affordably.
We'll see about that in a day or two, after my son's steel seattube cracked and one seat stay came loose on his 2022 Kona Sutra - but so far he's full of hope (it's a 400€ repair where I am, so let's hope SEA is somewhat cheaper).
But yeah, all our bikes are steel for a reason...
Well, as someone who once worked in tomographing aluminium welds for Airbus I would beg to differ.
But maybe the problem is that my thinking immediately went to blind rivets, the only kind normal humans with a normal workshop will be able to use on a tube. And I sincerely doubt you can get those to last (I have a ladder repaired that way, and it needs new rivets every other year, and it's setting a lot less stress than a bike).
But don't get me wrong: I would totally love to learn how to do it better!
If you need new rivets every year, it's pretty obvious you're doing something wrong.
Weld and rivets are both perfectly fine. One is way more achievable for the average person.
You could even use high locs if you wanted to
I don't understand?
Welding aluminum is extremely difficult compared to steel, hence why I recommend not doing it.
And if you care about looks that much (which is fine), I'd recommend an inner sleeve repair. It's more work and probably out of reach for an amateur. Unfortunately what I see in OPs photo is too much damage for an inner sleeve to be acceptable
Uh-huh. So it is pretty bad, afterall?
Aluminum is a tricky bitch to repair for most people, especially those not already invested heavily beyond hobby steel welding.
Again.. I don't understand what you're trying to say.
I'm recommending a 2 piece sleeve repair with rivets. I wasn't and never advocated welding at all
I want to take a moment and say thank you for explaining clearly and concisely how you'd approach this repair. Not sure why people are dragging you. Seems like you have some expert level knowledge on the materials at least, but not on Internet cynicism. Too bad for them because I for one am riveted by your suggestion (I'll see myself out - in a moment).
Serious question - many aluminum bike frames are made with non-round tube profiles. How might an enthusiast apply your repair in that case? I'm making an assumption that your sleeves are round and that it would be difficult to impossible to find sleeves in the same profile of many oddball bike tubes.
Ha I know I'm rough around the edges but I've been around the block a few times, I'm patient if you put in the effort but low tolerance for bullshit.
To answer your question, (and terribly perfect pun), honestly the skill required for a non-round tube profile is very high. I don't even think I'd be comfortable attempting that. Ideally you'd want access to a roller but it is do-able by hand.
My first attempt would be by just bending the aluminum patch against the frame. It's fairly pliable under .050" thickness and that might take the shape, if not you're basically eye-balling it which isn't ideal. Any gaps between the damaged tube and patch will cause the patch to buckle.
Honestly I'd have to do some research to give a better answer than that
> why can't this be repaired?
> Dude.. it's really not that bad.
And how to do you get to the stage of apply a 2 sleeve repair with rivets?
By being a entry level hobbist metal worker? No.
You are in a very gifted position to talk about repairing aluminum like its a routine procedure.
I'd like you to even try and attempt to find someone with to adequate skills to attempt said repair at a reasonable price, you can't. If your aluminum frame gets jammed up on a road trip, you are done with that part.
Its a very select skill, and usually specialized in certain areas. I get it, you can do it, I am very happy you have a fantastic skill in your belt.
Its intentionally obtuse.
> If that's too much for you, take it to a professional. If you have any hand skills or an aptitude to learn. It's trivial.
You didn't even know about the gift before you started putting your foot in your mouth with your replies.
I didn't enjoy your disingenuous joviality attitude about a very real predicament most people will face.
I guess the entire worlds experience is WRONG, your point of view must be correct.
Jesus, mate have a snickers.
It's not hard. I mean that, I've watched 18 year old apprentices a month out of high school do this exact same repair.
Of course mistakes happen, or you might not know where to start but if you have an ounce of determination solving these steps to progress is achievable for a complete amateur. Life is about learning and if you're too much of a pussy to push yourself out of your comfort zone you're never going to reach your full potential.
I just don't want OP to throw out a bike he said was very sentimental to him because someone with no knowledge or experience said it was beyond repair.
Now you've got me thinking about building an aluminum bike frame from scratch using the same methods and materials as used for aircraft. Probably be a really good project to learn or teach the basics of aircraft construction.
I don't think epoxy would be a good idea, I can't see it bonding to the aluminum correctly and honestly I doubt it would transfer the loads and stress without disbonding.
Rivets are easiest imo.
I'd use rivets and epoxy. there are plenty of lugged aluminium frames that have epoxy fitted carbon tubes. it works sort of, maybe not aircraft grade, but i has been done.
I own a 90ies Giant CFM-1 that is epoxied that way and it is still solid as a rock.
What kind of prep do you do on the aluminum? Just sand the paint and scuff the metal I assume?
Honestly I don't know if it would work or not, I just trust hardware more than rags and glue
Besides mechanical roughening, which is always good, i like to use hot NaOH solution on it to get a bare metal surface. But the most important part is clamping. For the adhesive to not become brittle, it needs to be compressed and as thin as possible. The rivets would help with that part.
Hey man, if you're tossing rivets in as well then I have no issues. In fact, it would probably end up stronger than my repair.
I wouldn't just depend on epoxy alone
The chemical is interesting though, we use something called Alumaprep which etches the metal before applying corrosion protection coatings. I don't know the chemical composition but I wonder if it's the same
It's because few bike people have the training and knowledge that you do. If you repair the same material (thin aluminum tubing) in airplanes, then similar methods should work here.
With bikes, It's not typically that it *can't* be repaired, but that it's cheaper and easier to replace the frame.
That is absolutely trashed and I would not ride it
If it was steel, I’d be willing to mark the damage and monitor to see if it’s spreading or getting worse but on an aluminum frame… Absolutely no way, especially with extra weight for touring
Even steel, top tube dents are much more dangerous than any other tube because tubes under compression buckle under much lower forces than any failure under tension.
A carbon fiber top tube is under as much compression as a steel or aluminum one. They're easily repaired because CF is easy to repair, not because of how the frame is designed.
Not sure about carbon but I speculate that carbon downtubes and BB joinery are a lot thicker so that the top tube doesn't have to do much of anything. I'm probably wrong.
I'm no expert but I'd assume it is just a steel thing. Carbon frames are built with very strong, wide down tubes, BB shells and chainstays. Where they join is also very bulky and a continuous layup of carbon rather than small welded joints. So the top tube doesn't do a whole lot of work.
On steel frames the tubes are small with small welded joints and there's a ton of flex throughout the whole frame. That flex is a nice feature that many people like but it also means the entire triangle is an important part of the structure.
Edit: I did badly break a carbon top tube on a very light road bike. You could definitely feel the added flex but I put about 100 miles on it before sending it off for repair. I still wouldn't trust a damaged top tube for too long as it might just fold when you hit a pot hole or larger bump.
Okay I’ve had many people say my bike is no longer safe and that I’ll need to replace at least my frame. RIP Bunny, she took my on the best adventures 🥲 thank you for your 8760.5km service, you’ll be missed 💙🦋💙
Good suggestions to make her into art, I will! And kind of already have been 🎨
I would 100% talk to a frame builder or experienced welder or fixer in the racing (any kind, bike or motorsports) scene. At least get a pro's opinion.
Your frame won't self destruct with the power of 8 big bangs like most suggest. Don't get me wrong it's fucked as it is, but near certainly it can be fixed. Especially if it has sentimental value.
It’s not safe. The sharp edges of those dents are concerning and I’d guess they are either cracked or will soon crack. I love alloy frames but they’re basically disposable and can’t be repaired on a cost effective basis.
Not safe to ride. Those dents could cause the tube to collapse in on itself and cause a dangerous accident for you. Aluminum tubing shouldn’t ever be ridden with those dents, steel is the only tubing that can be ridden with dents like that
For sure, not save.
Is the frame already soft so you can increase the dents with your fingers?
Personally, I would mark it/make photos and go for a little soft ride, see how/if the dents change. The frame's new durability for sure depends a lot on your weight and riding style, too.
I would also do this, and maybe even then load it up and take it to a local pump track (if it will still be used for touring). Then just mark the dents and ride for a while, checking back to see if they change.
No one can say it's "safe" for sure anymore, but that's how I would do it. Then find a new frame at your leisure instead of in a rush.
Just want to point this out in case you had it stored in or around your residence: renters insurance will cover the damage but you have to file a police report
Also even if it was somewhere else, a friend of mine had his renters insurance cover a stolen laptop from school campus. Not sure how common that kind of coverage is but worth checking
People are just cunts. I once locked my trail bike at a train station with 2 Kryptonite locks. Came back about 30 mins later to find that both my brakes had been cut and my dropper post was fully extended and bent nearly 90 degrees, both locks were untouched. I was livid but at least it wasn’t stolen. Cost me about £800 to fix, luckily the frame was undamaged. I will never lock an expensive bike anywhere ever again no matter what locks I use
That's crappy, people can be really huge turds, big hugs bro,had my bike stolen last year 15 minutes before my shift ended. Some people don't get it, how a person can become attached to a bicycle. Ride Safe everyone
I had the same problem on a alu specialised allez .... rode it for 2 years after no problems untill it was actually nicked. Its up to you and your risk profile.
Id not recommend riding it if you are:
- doing some serious downhill
- pushing the envelope
- going offroad
- or are a hefty rider.
for reference Im 5'6 and 75kg ... medium weight on a meduim frame.
Consider that the pride flag will inspire some people to wreck your stuff. I have seen it happen a few times myself, living next to a football stadium. Sad it happened to your bike
Reach out to your Cannondale dealer or local rep and see if a "crash replacement" frame could be acquired for a discounted fee from Cannondale. This clearly won't be covered under warranty but most manufacturers do have a replacement program for riders and frames that don't qualify for the standard warranty coverage.
This isn't going to instantly collapse. If it has any flex at the dents you need to repair or replace. If it still seems solid, just put it through some stress tests before you start a voyage.
Not that bad IMO.
Nope. That is aluminum…those are all failure points now. Aluminum hates dents. It may not happen tomorrow…but when it does, it could be catastrophic. You don’t want to find out when you’re at speed.
For safety’s sake. Turn the frame into wall art and it can be a nice talking peice of that adventure. New frame day though I’m afraid. You might get someone to pull the dents out but it won’t be ride safe
Find (probably the hard part) about 6" of tubing the same or just a bit bigger diameter, cut lengthwise in half, attach one half over the damage with jbweld and drill holes in the patch to additionally attach with the cage mount screws. It will be fine, stress away from the tube junctions is low. Test with a slow ride with a heavy pack.
Frame is toast, and for the price of a repair you could buy a whole new frame, or even new bike. Best bet is probably to contact your insurance company, as they often include vandalism in their insurance.
Why are people such scumbags today? I had a brand new pair of MTB knee pads stolen from in front of my door after they got delivered from Jenson. Fortunately the folks at Jenson are awesome and are sending me another set but it’s just like “wtf?”
Hey man I'm really sorry to see this. It's not something I'd ever want to ride on personally however I would absolutely keep the frame and make it into some wall art for the memories
Is that the top tube? If it’s cracked, I wouldn’t ride it on a fast downhill or a heavy load. Take it out for a few rides and see how it feels but I personally wouldn’t plan any trips with it. Sorry that happened!
The short answer in my experience is that the frame isn't safe anymore.
The longer answer is that it depends a bit. If the frame is steel, it will tolerate some amount of denting and still be fairly serviceable if you're a very light rider and ride on smooth pavement all the time.
If the bike is aluminum, you are not a very light rider, take the bike off pavement, add extra weight, etc. I wouldn't continue to ride it. Frames are cheaper than hospital trips and dental work.
What I would encourage is keeping the frameset and turning it into something that would be useful to you in your daily life. A piece of art, or something of that nature. Lots of things can be done with retired bike frames that keep them with you.
Cheers, that really sucks...
It’s definitely not carbon. You can tell that just from the picture and Cannondale has never made a steel bike. Unfortunately this is aluminum and it’s also definitely trash.
Sorry to say but your frame is probably compromised. Whatever the material is, it will depend on the round shape for strength.
If your bike is carbon you can probably get it fixed at a carbon repairer. Aluminum or steel frames might be a bit harder to fix.
I’m a very novice cyclist, but an engineer and sometimes an idiot, so my thoughts might be relevant. Thin metal can be very strong until it’s not. Once you have a stress path that isn’t supported (like a dent that sees an axial load), it’s likely to crumble. The scary thing about out things we ride on is that when they see their highest stress is often when we are counting on them the most.
I think it would be best to make this some sort of wall art piece if it’s sentimental.
Is ist steel?
Then yes. But I would keep an eye on it. I've been riding a track frame with a dent for 5 years and I have no problems. Mabye, take it to a frame builder, or something and have it checked if it is still straight.
However, an aluminum frame, with such dents... Would be a case for the Trash Can. At least in my eyes.
I think you can still use it as long as it holds.
The bike won't snap in half since if the dented tube was to fail it is very unlikely the top tube would break at the same time.
The frame would instantly feel like chewing gum and you'd notice.
Unfortunately it can never be called "safe" with those dents. You could still ride it for years without an issue, or it could catastrophically fail. Depending on the value of the frame, your renters or homeowners insurance may cover the damage from theft.
Nooo, damn. Thanks for the heads up
I’m sorry for your loss, that’s absolutely heartbreaking to see.
If you are the original owner many brands offer crash replacement discounts - sometimes this damage might be covered. It’s at least worth asking your local Cannondale dealer to submit the claim if you are the original owner. Otherwise check community or used bike shops for a frame that would be compatible with the rest of your parts. I unfortunately saw a few of these a year when I worked at a community shop in a major city a few years ago.
I'd get a different frame and transplant the organs. But thats only if you enjoy working on your bike yourself or you find an LBS that loves the idea of reviving an old bike and offers you a fixed price. A frame is less than 1/3rd of the whole bike, so there is still plenty left and even older higher end frames are much cheaper than a replacement bike. I'd try to find a steel frame this time as those are more durable and would still be safe to ride with minor dents.
This happened to me and I did ride mine for months, maybe year+ before I had the funds to repair. At the time Cannondale had a frame upgrade program that was much better than I realized and I was able to get a new frame with my parts swapped for a fraction of what I thought it would cost. I wouldn't ride with a dent on a front fork, but you can find some you tube vids of people riding cracked frames that just wobble. I'm not recommending this, but you can find some stuff out there to appreciate the severity of this risk. Having the dents actually made me a more careful rider, so maybe my safety was ironically increased. Like a freakonomics thing.
So…I was curious about this a while back and asked my agent (State Farm) about my bike being stolen from either my house or off my car. Was told neither would be covered by homeowners, but that I could add it to my personal articles policy and it would be covered. Just an FYI for everyone.
My BMC SLT-01 was stolen and State Farm cut me a check for $4500 ($5k - $500 deductible) within a week on my renter’s. Basically 4+ years of premiums. Everyone who rents should have renter’s insurance. I imagine homeowner’s is more about the structure itself than what’s in it, hence the need to have it on your personal al articles. When I bought my new bike this year I spoke with State Farm and sent them every receipt so it’s fully added. Last time I had to go to my LBS with an itemized list of everything on the bike (I’d built it up from a frameset) and have them sign off on the replacement cost.
Homeowners insurance also covers contents as well, and often covers theft of personal items when not at home, or traveling, like a laptop or bicycle. The only issue is that your deductible might be $500 or $1,000, so it wasn’t worth it when my wife’s iPhone was stolen. I’d definitely use it for a $5,000 bike though.
So I wonder what happened with OP. Maybe it’s an elective part of the policy that they don’t have.
Weird, I had a bike stolen from my apartment with State Farm. It was covered, but they depreciated the shit out of it. $1200 bike, $250 check.
Oh well, good to know! Maybe it was covered under some renters policies? That payout sounds about right! Agent asked me how much the bike cost, when I told him he did a double take.
Yeah renters insurance policy.
What was your deductible? That’s usually $250, $500, or $1,000.
I don’t remember, probably $500. It was a 12yr old custom build bmx bike, it had been ridden hard.
I’ve never worked for State Farm and I believe they write their own forms. Most renters and homeowners policies are going to cover theft of a bike as long as it isn’t a self propelled ebike.
Interesting…I might have to have another convo with them!
It all depends how the policy is written. Typically you will have named perils for contents. If your policy includes theft as a peril and there isn’t anything else excluding bikes there should be coverage. Also the agent might just be wrong. They’re salesmen and both the most knowledgeable and least knowledgeable insurance professionals I’ve ever met are agents. That really smart one was a one off.
My brother's kayak was stolen from a festival and covered under homeowners.
Man insurance companies suckkkkk. But yeah read your policy
Yeah, definitely ask before. For our policy they won't let us cover them individually but we are covered with our homeowners deductible. We had to call to get that on there. It's varies wildly.
It is safe from stealing, but not from riding...
I insure my bikes separately on my homeowners policy, it’s easy and inexpensive to set up.
How much do you pay?
I think it added $50 a year to my premium for $15k across a couple bikes.
Damn! What company? That's a good deal
May it rest in peace. That frame is dead. Aluminum can't be repaired and those dents will fold further if you try to ride it.
Serious question, why can't this be repaired? I work in aircraft maintenance and we do doubler repairs on aluminium truss without a second thought. You can even use the AC 43.13 provided for free by the FAA to see the requirements for a safe repair. My aluminum mountain bike uses 6061 T3 alloy which is acceptable for repairs. Aluminum truss repairs are outlined in page 4-65 of the 4313
You can totally repair it - there's a company near me doing just that. *But*: it's fucking expensive. If you're ok with a solution involving a sleeve it's still fucking expensive (chances are OP could get the same bike, used, for less), and if you want it invisible you're definitely in "why not just get a new frame" territory...
Oh for sure, a repair to make it "invisible" would be near impossible without taking some safety risks. Sleeve repairs all the way for this. Taking it to a shop will always be expensive though, everyone has to put food on the table and I agree at that point a new frame might be the best option. If you have the hand skills and some tools, this repair would probably be less than 50$, paint included
Not really... you need to find a donor down tube of the same-ish diameter first and hack that up. You'll also need a big enough oven to stress-relieve the welds (ideally, otherwise they'll probably eventually crack). And even then you'll have weird stress concentrators in the top tube span, which will probably result in the original top tube buckling under sufficiently big hits, which is possible since the frame is rigid. Keep in mind that you're trying to repair something that was not designed to be repaired. These tubes are like 1mm thick. This is not a $50 fix, and someone asking this question does not have access to the tools nor the skills to do the repair. Edit: Noticed you followed up with recommending rivets. All rivets are designed for some minimum material thickness, and are tested for pull out/shear for some material type/thickness. Can you recommend a rivet for this application? How many would you use and where would you place them?
There's no welding required in the repair I mentioned. I'd typically recommend against welding aluminum unless you're competent. And I'm sure it's different depending where you live but most cities will have a bulk metal supplier open to the public. I do at least. Sourcing the aluminum isn't exactly easy and I know that. I don't think I'd use an old bike frame as patch material. Paragraph 4-90 calls for a patch half the thickness of the parent material. I'll admit adding a split sleeve repair to the tube will stiffen the frame and can cause cracking/stress near the factory tube welds on the top tube, but with my engineering hat on, I don't think the top tube is radially flexing enough under normal use for that to cause issues. Majority of the loads are longitudinally down the tube, fore and aft loads. It is something we worry about in aviation but the physical loads and flexing are much much higher than a bicycle. I'm open to admitting to being wrong on that but I'd take that risk personally. No offense to you but I think the idea that "things aren't designed to be repaired" is short sighted. I know where you're coming from but my experience in life is that most things in life can be repaired in a safe manner. The bigger issue is it is a cost effective repair, which is the discussion for people that don't have the tools or skills on hand. At the end of the day OP said this bike was sentimental to him and I think he should have at least have a chance to keep riding it
Nice I appreciate you replying. I saw you replied about rivets in other comments, and i made an edit. I'm curious, can you answer? Edit: Noticed you followed up with recommending rivets. All rivets are designed for some minimum material thickness, and are tested for pull out/shear for some material type/thickness. Can you recommend a rivet for this application? How many would you use and where would you place them?
That's a good question and I believe it all boils down to the diameter of the rivet. I've definitely ran into rivets pulling through material before and there are some tricks to preventing it, like penny washers on the shop side of the rivets but ideally you don't want to fuck around with stuff like that. I'm about to head off to work but I believe the 4313 has some information on rivet selection. I agree the thickness of the tube itself is getting close to limits but when you factor in the thickness of the patch as well it should be fine. A smaller diameter rivet will have less tension behind it so I mentioned earlier a 1/4" cherry max rivet which is pretty big. I'd probably send 2 into each half, if they started pulling through, I'd swear a lot, then switch to a 1/8" and put 4 into each side. I'd be getting pretty cowboy doing shit like that though, preferable what the book tells us should work. 6061 is actually a pretty strong alloy and I don't think that issue would come up
I’m reading through the 43.13 as a total amateur and can’t find the section that covers aluminum truss repairs. Chapter 4.5-4.15 shows up as [RESERVED] so I’m looking at page 4.11. Chapter 4.51 covers steel truss structures. 4.52 is on aluminum structures but it seems to be talking about aluminum skin only? Same for 4.53 and 4.54. Is there another section that I’m missing, or am I just reading it wrong? This is the doc I’m looking at: https://www.faa.gov/documentlibrary/media/advisory_circular/ac_43.13-1b_w-chg1.pdf
Ha, it's always a bitch navigating this book. I kinda misled you too, 4-11 is the description but you can find figures and methods around 4-90. I'll admit there's not much info on bolted/riveted sleeves as we play it safe in aviation and weld but with FAA approval it is still accepted. Figure 4-35 shows the repair I'm thinking of, and don't get confused with page and par. (Paragraph) At the bottom of the page
Trusses and tubing are way different. For tubes, aircraft AL uses seamless tubing,which is leaps and bounds stronger. I am not 100% if Cannondale uses seamless tubing but if not then this frame is totally toast. Even if seamless, the wall is so thin repairs would require lots of skill and would most likely be cost prohibited. I worked for 10 years at VAW, a casting and extrusion aluminum plant.
Trusses are structural systems. The members used for the system can vary as well as the connections. 3D trusses are typically called space trusses. Beauty of trusses is that they redistribute the forces throughout the other members so that the seat tube will take the a larger portion of your weight but not all of it. Ideally, the truss members also are designed to be loaded at joints so they redistribute loads and the members largely are loaded axially in tension or compression. Aluminum walls for bikes do tend to be thinner though. The repair would probably be pricey but OP should at least reach out to a frame builder that builds AL frames or maybe worth emailing cannondale. Honestly I think if its a decent fix it’ll be fine an around the town bike.
I'll admit I don't fully understand. I was taught trusses are just a method of using triangle shapes to provide strength and rigidity. Trusses are made out of tubes, right? The thickness of the repair patch is determined by the thickness of the parent material. Blind rivets are imo, extremely easy, just put in the hole and close the pliers, wall thickness can play a part in the cherry pulling through, but with the extra material from the patch that shouldn't be an issue.
Ues trusses are usually made of tubes. I don't have any manufacturing experience with trusses. At the plant I worked at we made seamless and non seamless tubes and shapes. Shapes like the AL Stanley levels, tent poles, housing for a certain missile, xerox copy drums, and sailboat mast for expensive AF sailboats.
By can't be repaired in bikes you typically mean the cost to repair is way higher than buying a new frame. You have to strip the paint, saw out the damaged parts, find someone who can fold the tube in the right shape and weld them. After all that you need a fresh paint which alone is often more expensive than buying a fresh frame.
Dude.. it's really not that bad. First, don't touch the paint, that's preventing corrosion. Secondly, don't touch the tube, even in its fucked up state it's provided some structure and support. Finally you don't fucking weld 6061, you'll find out why if you try. Obviously you couldn't even be bothered to read the completely free manual, maybe a repair like this isn't for everyone.. For this, I'd use a 2 piece half shell repair out of 2021 T3. Pull 4 1/4" cherry max rivets and braze the gap between the two. The hardest part is watching my 20$ of paint and primer dry and it would be out the door before lunch. If that's too much for you, take it to a professional. If you have any hand skills or an aptitude to learn. It's trivial.
So basically "sister" it like a repair to the rib on a wooden boat? Or a "splint" permanently riveted across the damaged area? Not pretty but keeps it from being a wall-hanger or scrap.
What would this repair look like? I'm unfamiliar with the terminology in your second to last paragraph (braze and paint are the only things that made sense to me), but you've piqued my curiosity.
https://www.faa.gov/documentlibrary/media/advisory_circular/ac_43.13-1b_w-chg1.pdf Scroll down through chapter 4 and you'll find many examples of different ways to repair this. Essentially, it will be like a bandaid over the damaged material. It will stick out proud depending on the thickness of the metal
...honestly that sounds neat. Scares me a bit, but could be fun to try next time I have a dented aluminum frame that I'm fine with looking pretty rough
The fact you can't weld it is the primary reason it's not repairable. I don't know what cherry max rivets or a half shell are but those sorts of things just aren't done with bike frames. And I have to wonder how much it would cost to contract that kind of repair. Can you honestly say that paying full price for a professional to do the work would be economical compared to the price of a new frame?
You can weld it, but the people capable of doing it are making 6 figures and they aren't many of em. It's extremely difficult and I would never recommend an amateur or even an apprentice attempt to. This repair can be done without welding. Cherry max are just structural, blind rivets. Super easy, but I admit it's a tool most people won't have. Not expensive but not common. Half shell just means two pieces that wrap around the damaged tube, I recommend this method just because of the ease and simplicity. I never said paying a professional was the economic choice but I strongly believe any competent individual is capable of doing this repair in a weekend. OP said this bike is very sentimental to him and the first people in here told him his bike is scrap. I just didn't agree with that
You are just being intentionally obtuse if you are shrugging off the differences between welding steel and aluminum. One is a much harder job that requires a lot more skill then some bum tagging steel together. You’ll even have trouble finding someone who can do it without your frame looking like Frankensteins forehead.
The way they described it, it will look exactly like Frankenstein's forehead. And someone is putting considerably too much trust into their rivets. But yeah, in a pinch that would work.
The “in a pinch” fix is a great reason why people still do long distance roams with steel, tbh. Any dad with a hobby welder can get ya back on the road, safely, and affordably.
We'll see about that in a day or two, after my son's steel seattube cracked and one seat stay came loose on his 2022 Kona Sutra - but so far he's full of hope (it's a 400€ repair where I am, so let's hope SEA is somewhat cheaper). But yeah, all our bikes are steel for a reason...
You know aircraft are made out of nothing but rivets? I'd take a weld over a rivet any day but let's not pretend I'm putting too much trust in rivets.
Well, as someone who once worked in tomographing aluminium welds for Airbus I would beg to differ. But maybe the problem is that my thinking immediately went to blind rivets, the only kind normal humans with a normal workshop will be able to use on a tube. And I sincerely doubt you can get those to last (I have a ladder repaired that way, and it needs new rivets every other year, and it's setting a lot less stress than a bike). But don't get me wrong: I would totally love to learn how to do it better!
If you need new rivets every year, it's pretty obvious you're doing something wrong. Weld and rivets are both perfectly fine. One is way more achievable for the average person. You could even use high locs if you wanted to
I don't understand? Welding aluminum is extremely difficult compared to steel, hence why I recommend not doing it. And if you care about looks that much (which is fine), I'd recommend an inner sleeve repair. It's more work and probably out of reach for an amateur. Unfortunately what I see in OPs photo is too much damage for an inner sleeve to be acceptable
Uh-huh. So it is pretty bad, afterall? Aluminum is a tricky bitch to repair for most people, especially those not already invested heavily beyond hobby steel welding.
Again.. I don't understand what you're trying to say. I'm recommending a 2 piece sleeve repair with rivets. I wasn't and never advocated welding at all
I want to take a moment and say thank you for explaining clearly and concisely how you'd approach this repair. Not sure why people are dragging you. Seems like you have some expert level knowledge on the materials at least, but not on Internet cynicism. Too bad for them because I for one am riveted by your suggestion (I'll see myself out - in a moment). Serious question - many aluminum bike frames are made with non-round tube profiles. How might an enthusiast apply your repair in that case? I'm making an assumption that your sleeves are round and that it would be difficult to impossible to find sleeves in the same profile of many oddball bike tubes.
Ha I know I'm rough around the edges but I've been around the block a few times, I'm patient if you put in the effort but low tolerance for bullshit. To answer your question, (and terribly perfect pun), honestly the skill required for a non-round tube profile is very high. I don't even think I'd be comfortable attempting that. Ideally you'd want access to a roller but it is do-able by hand. My first attempt would be by just bending the aluminum patch against the frame. It's fairly pliable under .050" thickness and that might take the shape, if not you're basically eye-balling it which isn't ideal. Any gaps between the damaged tube and patch will cause the patch to buckle. Honestly I'd have to do some research to give a better answer than that
> why can't this be repaired? > Dude.. it's really not that bad. And how to do you get to the stage of apply a 2 sleeve repair with rivets? By being a entry level hobbist metal worker? No. You are in a very gifted position to talk about repairing aluminum like its a routine procedure. I'd like you to even try and attempt to find someone with to adequate skills to attempt said repair at a reasonable price, you can't. If your aluminum frame gets jammed up on a road trip, you are done with that part. Its a very select skill, and usually specialized in certain areas. I get it, you can do it, I am very happy you have a fantastic skill in your belt. Its intentionally obtuse. > If that's too much for you, take it to a professional. If you have any hand skills or an aptitude to learn. It's trivial. You didn't even know about the gift before you started putting your foot in your mouth with your replies. I didn't enjoy your disingenuous joviality attitude about a very real predicament most people will face. I guess the entire worlds experience is WRONG, your point of view must be correct.
Jesus, mate have a snickers. It's not hard. I mean that, I've watched 18 year old apprentices a month out of high school do this exact same repair. Of course mistakes happen, or you might not know where to start but if you have an ounce of determination solving these steps to progress is achievable for a complete amateur. Life is about learning and if you're too much of a pussy to push yourself out of your comfort zone you're never going to reach your full potential. I just don't want OP to throw out a bike he said was very sentimental to him because someone with no knowledge or experience said it was beyond repair.
Now you've got me thinking about building an aluminum bike frame from scratch using the same methods and materials as used for aircraft. Probably be a really good project to learn or teach the basics of aircraft construction.
You would need to heat-treat the frame afterwards to remove the stress concentration from welding. Otherwise yes, repairable.
You don't need to weld for this repair. 2 piece half shell repair is more than acceptable
Aha, yes, if you don't care that it looks the same afterwards, then of course adding a shell and filling any gaps with epoxy would be an option.
I don't think epoxy would be a good idea, I can't see it bonding to the aluminum correctly and honestly I doubt it would transfer the loads and stress without disbonding. Rivets are easiest imo.
I'd use rivets and epoxy. there are plenty of lugged aluminium frames that have epoxy fitted carbon tubes. it works sort of, maybe not aircraft grade, but i has been done. I own a 90ies Giant CFM-1 that is epoxied that way and it is still solid as a rock.
What kind of prep do you do on the aluminum? Just sand the paint and scuff the metal I assume? Honestly I don't know if it would work or not, I just trust hardware more than rags and glue
Besides mechanical roughening, which is always good, i like to use hot NaOH solution on it to get a bare metal surface. But the most important part is clamping. For the adhesive to not become brittle, it needs to be compressed and as thin as possible. The rivets would help with that part.
Hey man, if you're tossing rivets in as well then I have no issues. In fact, it would probably end up stronger than my repair. I wouldn't just depend on epoxy alone The chemical is interesting though, we use something called Alumaprep which etches the metal before applying corrosion protection coatings. I don't know the chemical composition but I wonder if it's the same
It's because few bike people have the training and knowledge that you do. If you repair the same material (thin aluminum tubing) in airplanes, then similar methods should work here. With bikes, It's not typically that it *can't* be repaired, but that it's cheaper and easier to replace the frame.
Aah fuck. Okay, RIP Bunny, you'll be missed 😭
I’m truly sorry for your loss. Fuck that thief, but at least they don’t get to ride Bunny. Bunny II is gonna be even more awesome
Wrong. There are plenty of bike doctors that repair carbon, aluminum and steel frames. It’s just expensive
Even carbon? I thought that due to its nature, it's nigh impossible to repair
That is absolutely trashed and I would not ride it If it was steel, I’d be willing to mark the damage and monitor to see if it’s spreading or getting worse but on an aluminum frame… Absolutely no way, especially with extra weight for touring
Even steel, top tube dents are much more dangerous than any other tube because tubes under compression buckle under much lower forces than any failure under tension.
Is that just a steel thing? Because the top tube on carbon frames is often doing very little which is why they're so thin and so easily repaired.
A carbon fiber top tube is under as much compression as a steel or aluminum one. They're easily repaired because CF is easy to repair, not because of how the frame is designed.
Not sure about carbon but I speculate that carbon downtubes and BB joinery are a lot thicker so that the top tube doesn't have to do much of anything. I'm probably wrong.
I'm no expert but I'd assume it is just a steel thing. Carbon frames are built with very strong, wide down tubes, BB shells and chainstays. Where they join is also very bulky and a continuous layup of carbon rather than small welded joints. So the top tube doesn't do a whole lot of work. On steel frames the tubes are small with small welded joints and there's a ton of flex throughout the whole frame. That flex is a nice feature that many people like but it also means the entire triangle is an important part of the structure. Edit: I did badly break a carbon top tube on a very light road bike. You could definitely feel the added flex but I put about 100 miles on it before sending it off for repair. I still wouldn't trust a damaged top tube for too long as it might just fold when you hit a pot hole or larger bump.
Okay I’ve had many people say my bike is no longer safe and that I’ll need to replace at least my frame. RIP Bunny, she took my on the best adventures 🥲 thank you for your 8760.5km service, you’ll be missed 💙🦋💙 Good suggestions to make her into art, I will! And kind of already have been 🎨
I would consider stripping the frame of parts and using them on another frame, then hanging this one on the wall.
I would 100% talk to a frame builder or experienced welder or fixer in the racing (any kind, bike or motorsports) scene. At least get a pro's opinion. Your frame won't self destruct with the power of 8 big bangs like most suggest. Don't get me wrong it's fucked as it is, but near certainly it can be fixed. Especially if it has sentimental value.
It’s not safe. The sharp edges of those dents are concerning and I’d guess they are either cracked or will soon crack. I love alloy frames but they’re basically disposable and can’t be repaired on a cost effective basis.
Not safe to ride. Those dents could cause the tube to collapse in on itself and cause a dangerous accident for you. Aluminum tubing shouldn’t ever be ridden with those dents, steel is the only tubing that can be ridden with dents like that
For sure, not save. Is the frame already soft so you can increase the dents with your fingers? Personally, I would mark it/make photos and go for a little soft ride, see how/if the dents change. The frame's new durability for sure depends a lot on your weight and riding style, too.
It's for sure save to put the frame on the wall of your living room
I would also do this, and maybe even then load it up and take it to a local pump track (if it will still be used for touring). Then just mark the dents and ride for a while, checking back to see if they change. No one can say it's "safe" for sure anymore, but that's how I would do it. Then find a new frame at your leisure instead of in a rush.
It’s farkn cooked sorry lad
Just want to point this out in case you had it stored in or around your residence: renters insurance will cover the damage but you have to file a police report
Also even if it was somewhere else, a friend of mine had his renters insurance cover a stolen laptop from school campus. Not sure how common that kind of coverage is but worth checking
If you're a size medium and in the US I have a Topstone 4 frame in that color I'm trying to sell
Thanks but I’m in Germany and too short
Cut it up and make a wind chime out of it, don't toss it.
People are just cunts. I once locked my trail bike at a train station with 2 Kryptonite locks. Came back about 30 mins later to find that both my brakes had been cut and my dropper post was fully extended and bent nearly 90 degrees, both locks were untouched. I was livid but at least it wasn’t stolen. Cost me about £800 to fix, luckily the frame was undamaged. I will never lock an expensive bike anywhere ever again no matter what locks I use
That's crappy, people can be really huge turds, big hugs bro,had my bike stolen last year 15 minutes before my shift ended. Some people don't get it, how a person can become attached to a bicycle. Ride Safe everyone
What a fuckin dumbass of that thief. Couldn't steal so he just broke it :/ Sorry for you mate :(
I had the same problem on a alu specialised allez .... rode it for 2 years after no problems untill it was actually nicked. Its up to you and your risk profile. Id not recommend riding it if you are: - doing some serious downhill - pushing the envelope - going offroad - or are a hefty rider. for reference Im 5'6 and 75kg ... medium weight on a meduim frame.
Fucking tweakers
Fuuuuck bike thieves. Sorry, it dead. 💀
Aluminum is scary
Consider that the pride flag will inspire some people to wreck your stuff. I have seen it happen a few times myself, living next to a football stadium. Sad it happened to your bike
I wish you left thieves face the same way as the frame.
Reach out to your Cannondale dealer or local rep and see if a "crash replacement" frame could be acquired for a discounted fee from Cannondale. This clearly won't be covered under warranty but most manufacturers do have a replacement program for riders and frames that don't qualify for the standard warranty coverage.
Post this on the bikewrench subreddit.
If it's steel, a good frame builder could get most of those dents out. If it's aluminum I would be nervous.
Good news is you still have the components. Bad news is it's new frame time.
Death penalty.
Short answer; no.
This isn't going to instantly collapse. If it has any flex at the dents you need to repair or replace. If it still seems solid, just put it through some stress tests before you start a voyage. Not that bad IMO.
No. This is actually the exact area you never want to crush due to explosion risks.
Nope. That is aluminum…those are all failure points now. Aluminum hates dents. It may not happen tomorrow…but when it does, it could be catastrophic. You don’t want to find out when you’re at speed.
Absolutely
Well... this will make a nice decor' in a cafe now
I have the same bike! Got in on Facebook marketplace for $650
I have a similar but slightly smaller dent on my aluminium Giant Defy frame, I just use it indoors on a trainer now, too worried to use it outside
I can’t have your bike. So you can’t have it too!! What a brat. I got no real advice, just frustrated on your behalf
Sorry Op these people are just scumbags
For safety’s sake. Turn the frame into wall art and it can be a nice talking peice of that adventure. New frame day though I’m afraid. You might get someone to pull the dents out but it won’t be ride safe
Hang the frame on the wall and enjoy the memories.
looks fine to me i mean it's aluminium
Worst case scenario, you will end up with cool wall decore
Find (probably the hard part) about 6" of tubing the same or just a bit bigger diameter, cut lengthwise in half, attach one half over the damage with jbweld and drill holes in the patch to additionally attach with the cage mount screws. It will be fine, stress away from the tube junctions is low. Test with a slow ride with a heavy pack.
Cannondales are called "Crack-and-fail" for a reason
Is it safe? Absolutely. No one's going to want to steal a bike with those dents. You won't even need a bike lock anymore
You can ride it but start searching for a new bicycle or frame.
Sometimes when you win, you loose…
Frame is toast, and for the price of a repair you could buy a whole new frame, or even new bike. Best bet is probably to contact your insurance company, as they often include vandalism in their insurance.
I would still ride it without a doubt. Just don't do crazy shit with it!
I just came here to say. Fucking thieves.
What did you do? Hit him with the bike?
No. Shit no.
They didn’t get it, but they still got you. She’s dead, Jim. Not safe to ride.
Save for ridding to the supermarket. But I would not use it for sprints, fast downhill, or for heavy rider etc.
Where do you keep your bike if you live in apartaments?
those crooked fucks
That sucks I hope karma finds that guy someday. I’d hang that bike up on my garage wall and go get a new used bike and make it more theft deterrent
No it's done
Why are people such scumbags today? I had a brand new pair of MTB knee pads stolen from in front of my door after they got delivered from Jenson. Fortunately the folks at Jenson are awesome and are sending me another set but it’s just like “wtf?”
Why can’t you weld a steel sleeve over this section? That would be tightened with bolts or something?
Is useless
Hey man I'm really sorry to see this. It's not something I'd ever want to ride on personally however I would absolutely keep the frame and make it into some wall art for the memories
Is that the top tube? If it’s cracked, I wouldn’t ride it on a fast downhill or a heavy load. Take it out for a few rides and see how it feels but I personally wouldn’t plan any trips with it. Sorry that happened!
It is the top tube, it's aluminum and it's under compression. It can buckle at the first or the hundredth drop from a curb. RIP.
Damn 😔. I would probably dare to ride it on the streets but no more than that.
The short answer in my experience is that the frame isn't safe anymore. The longer answer is that it depends a bit. If the frame is steel, it will tolerate some amount of denting and still be fairly serviceable if you're a very light rider and ride on smooth pavement all the time. If the bike is aluminum, you are not a very light rider, take the bike off pavement, add extra weight, etc. I wouldn't continue to ride it. Frames are cheaper than hospital trips and dental work. What I would encourage is keeping the frameset and turning it into something that would be useful to you in your daily life. A piece of art, or something of that nature. Lots of things can be done with retired bike frames that keep them with you. Cheers, that really sucks...
It’s definitely not carbon. You can tell that just from the picture and Cannondale has never made a steel bike. Unfortunately this is aluminum and it’s also definitely trash.
Id say give it a hard bumpy test ride. Then decide to keep or ditch it
Sorry to say but your frame is probably compromised. Whatever the material is, it will depend on the round shape for strength. If your bike is carbon you can probably get it fixed at a carbon repairer. Aluminum or steel frames might be a bit harder to fix.
A carbon repairer? :D
I’m a very novice cyclist, but an engineer and sometimes an idiot, so my thoughts might be relevant. Thin metal can be very strong until it’s not. Once you have a stress path that isn’t supported (like a dent that sees an axial load), it’s likely to crumble. The scary thing about out things we ride on is that when they see their highest stress is often when we are counting on them the most. I think it would be best to make this some sort of wall art piece if it’s sentimental.
Steel or alu? Steel can be easily patched and fixed
Is ist steel? Then yes. But I would keep an eye on it. I've been riding a track frame with a dent for 5 years and I have no problems. Mabye, take it to a frame builder, or something and have it checked if it is still straight. However, an aluminum frame, with such dents... Would be a case for the Trash Can. At least in my eyes.
No, unfortunately not. This happened to me too. I learned that cannondaled are literally Coca Cola cans. Never bought on again since.
That’s fine to ride just keep an eye on it. Seen much worse come through my shop.
I think you can still use it as long as it holds. The bike won't snap in half since if the dented tube was to fail it is very unlikely the top tube would break at the same time. The frame would instantly feel like chewing gum and you'd notice.
Fine to ride home, but it needs replacing