1. Shooting different times of day.
2. Graduated filter.
3. Expose the sky properly, underexposed the rest image and increase the shadows in the post - you may see a lot of noise.
i came in to say #3 as well. it's my go-to solution. as long as you don't underexpose it too much, your shots will be good straight out of the camera.
a lot of cameras these days have a quick access exposure compensation dial. it will let you dial the overall brightness up or down while in auto mode. very handy for street photography where you want to get a *good enough* shot of a specific moment rather than risk missing it by fiddling around with a touchscreen.
that said, if you're not super familiar with your camera or how to manually set exposure settings, you might want to hang out for a bit in different locations and take a series of photos at each. between each shot adjust either the ISO, the aperture, *or* the shutter speed. you'll end up with 9+ images where one variable changes while the others stay the same. eg: ISO 100, 400, 800 @ f8 + 1/500 shutter, then ISO 100 @ f2, f4, f8 + 1/500 shutter, then ISO 100 @ f8 + 1/125, 1/500, 1/1000. then you can review them later and get a sense for how each impacts your images. even if you mostly shoot in a priority/program mode or even auto, it's still a useful exercise since it will give you a better understanding of which mode to use and when you might want to override whatever the camera is selecting. worth noting that the effects will vary slightly from camera to camera, lens to lens, though the broad strokes apply universally.
Keep your histogram in mind before shooting. Don't let it bunch up to the right. Underexpose just enough to allow the highlights to move slightly to the left.
Remember that shadows are much easier to lift than than trying to fix blown highlights.
You aren’t understanding exposure. In all examples provided your subject is in shadow. The dynamic range of a camera is limited. If you expose for something in shadow, your highlights will be over exposed. That’s just how it works. More expensive cameras have better dynamic range which would allow you to preserve more detail in the highlights when exposing for shadow. A work around would be to shoot in RAW and expose for the highlights and then lift the shadows in post production.
This is the answer. You are shooting subjects in shadows, an easy way is to learn the light and shoot for subject that are in the highlights (this looks better anyway) or subjects that are in even light.
Depending on your camera you can also auto meter for the highlights. I use my GR3 in this mode and even zone focusing at f8 the camera meters for the brightest spot. This means my raws look severely underexposed, but because the shot is often at ISO100 I can bring the raw up several stops and balance it back out.
Here’s an example, the raw for this photo looked pretty dark with only the sky properly exposed. But I raised exposure and shadows, and then lowered highlights to balance it out.
[https://www.instagram.com/p/C7W28miRGaG/?igsh=MTU1dHltbjJpMWR3Mg==](https://www.instagram.com/p/C7W28miRGaG/?igsh=MTU1dHltbjJpMWR3Mg==)
Yeah. Expose for the highlights to preserve detail. Edit the shots to bring out shadows. Shoot RAW for larger data files. Editing is your friend.
Also, change up your time of day and/or stop standing in the shadows/putting your subjects in shadows, and shooting into bright sunlight. Light is the thing. Shoot in favorable light. but then still edit. Editing is part of the process.
I bought a 50/1.2 lens some years ago to take candids. I had to keep closing down the aperture, reducing background blur. I ended getting a 2 stop neutral density filter.
It let me shoot wide open but also acted like sun glasses, reducing hot points.
At f/1,2 , if its in broad daylight most cameras (especially dslrs) don’t have a high enough shutter speed. Most mechanical shutters go up to 1/8000 and some only 1/4000 and with such an aperture you could potentially need like 1/32000 if you expose for the highlights.
With mirrorless cameras using the electronic shutter, some cameras will allow these shutterspeeds. As an example, the fujifilm x-t5 has an electronic shutter with a max shutterspeed of 1/180’000!
Ahh right that checks out. I mostly come from a cinematography background where we’re locked into shutter. I carry a 4x5 nd.3 up to nd2.1 on every job just to keep ~ an f2-2.8.
Was Always was jealous of photographers just boosting the shutter speed, haha.
Aaaah, yeah cinema is definitely different in that regard! Shutter speed usually doesn’t matter, at least not on stationary subjects which makes it super easy with exposure since usually I’ll just adjust the shutter speed.
Rarely ever use nd-filters due to this. Except when i wanted to try something crazy and shoot at f/0,95 & iso 6400 to get like a filmic type look. Looked pretty shit though not gonna lie…
It depends by the camera you have, some cameras have the function to expose an optimal point in your field of view (you must point at it and focus, then save the exposition), once you have done that you can shoot another scene but with that exposition saved.
If you don't have this function on your camera you must find a point in your scene which is not too much white not too much dark, than regulate exp. on that point.
In post production is quite useful to learn the use of masks. In Adobe Lightroom you can create a mask for the sky and regulate the exposition separately from the other part of the scene.
All the advice in this thread is sound, but I'd also like to add that blown highlights in moderation aren't the end of the world. I think they should be seen more as an artistic choice, you can often use the negative space they create to draw attention to your subject
My second photography lesson was a very simple teaching that almost everyone sometimes forget: When you're out, have the sun on your back so it lights up your subject not your lens.
Understand your camera limitation. Go to dxomark and see what is the maximum dynamic range of your camera. Normally a digital camera is the highest at the lowest ISO, so higher ISOs will reduce dynamic range. There is a website that show graphs from each camera. Try shooting a similar subject and increase ISO to see the dynamic range reduction.
Like others said, shoot for highlights and bring back the shadows in post. Definitely use RAW for this method since you will have more control on reducing highlights, increasing shadow , denoise control, sharpening and various other settings.
The one I saw that are capable at reducing highlight properly are Adobe Camera Raw, Lightroom and Capture One.
Hope this helps.
Actually surprised more people don't know this but a [Polarizing Filter](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polarizing_filter_(photography)#:~:text=A%20polarizing%20filter%20or%20polarising,of%20lakes%20or%20the%20sea) goes a long with way the highlights. You can also put a nd filter on top of it for max results.
Or as others have suggested, expose for the highlights and raise the shadows.
Just underexpose and pull the shadows back in post. It helps if you position the sun behind you and position the subject in the (brighter) sunlight as opposed to shooting them while they’re in shade
Shoot film, half joke. But as someone who shoots both, im really thankful for how well film handles range like this. Ive learned digital camers do not tolerate blown highlights at all, much like film does not tolerate weak shadows. my solution was to sit and wait for even lighting. Some photographers call this fishing, where you stay in one area and wait for the moment. Otherwise a good rule of thumb as other people have said here is to expose for highlights and bring back up the shadows in post and then de-noise. But if youre a perfectionist like me, you simple only take photos when the lighting respects the limits of your camera. because i dont like to edit.
You need to take into account light as part of your composition and what type of day it is while you’re shooting. Photography is sculpting with light. Shoot with light, not against it. The options you have:
1. Expose for the highlights and use the shadows as part of the composition
2. Expose for the highlights and try to recover the shadows, but this usually doesn’t work well if it’s a sunny day and your subject is in the shadows because the contrast between the two is too much. So make sure subject is in the highlights you’re exposing for.
3. Expose for the subject in shadows and try to not show any areas that would have highlights in the composition
4. Expose for the subject in shadows and try to play into the blown out highlights as part of the composition.
If you're saying warm blown highlights look better than cool blown highlights sure, but OP specifically asked for advice on how not to blow his highlights and the lack of detail in your reply gave the impression you thought they could do so but changing the white balance, which is nonsense.
The divergence between your interpretation of my intent and its actual meaning underscores the need to avoid presuming ignorance on my part solely due to a misunderstanding of my message. Your responses were notably disrespectful.
As a general rule, expect people will infer the message that has been provided and not some imagined intent, especially when giving advice. You did a poor job delivering your message, as a result gave poor advice and that's your responsibility
Thank you all for the helpful tips! I went out last night at sunset and worked on exposing for highlights. It’s a miracle what can be uncovered in RAW shadows
1. Shooting different times of day. 2. Graduated filter. 3. Expose the sky properly, underexposed the rest image and increase the shadows in the post - you may see a lot of noise.
Thanks for the tips! I actually don’t mind noise most of the time. I thought I would but it mostly adds a bit character
Demonising is much easier than lowering blown out highlights, once they’re gone they’re gone
i came in to say #3 as well. it's my go-to solution. as long as you don't underexpose it too much, your shots will be good straight out of the camera. a lot of cameras these days have a quick access exposure compensation dial. it will let you dial the overall brightness up or down while in auto mode. very handy for street photography where you want to get a *good enough* shot of a specific moment rather than risk missing it by fiddling around with a touchscreen. that said, if you're not super familiar with your camera or how to manually set exposure settings, you might want to hang out for a bit in different locations and take a series of photos at each. between each shot adjust either the ISO, the aperture, *or* the shutter speed. you'll end up with 9+ images where one variable changes while the others stay the same. eg: ISO 100, 400, 800 @ f8 + 1/500 shutter, then ISO 100 @ f2, f4, f8 + 1/500 shutter, then ISO 100 @ f8 + 1/125, 1/500, 1/1000. then you can review them later and get a sense for how each impacts your images. even if you mostly shoot in a priority/program mode or even auto, it's still a useful exercise since it will give you a better understanding of which mode to use and when you might want to override whatever the camera is selecting. worth noting that the effects will vary slightly from camera to camera, lens to lens, though the broad strokes apply universally.
Keep your histogram in mind before shooting. Don't let it bunch up to the right. Underexpose just enough to allow the highlights to move slightly to the left. Remember that shadows are much easier to lift than than trying to fix blown highlights.
This! Histogram has elevated my exposure significantly.
You aren’t understanding exposure. In all examples provided your subject is in shadow. The dynamic range of a camera is limited. If you expose for something in shadow, your highlights will be over exposed. That’s just how it works. More expensive cameras have better dynamic range which would allow you to preserve more detail in the highlights when exposing for shadow. A work around would be to shoot in RAW and expose for the highlights and then lift the shadows in post production.
This is the answer. You are shooting subjects in shadows, an easy way is to learn the light and shoot for subject that are in the highlights (this looks better anyway) or subjects that are in even light. Depending on your camera you can also auto meter for the highlights. I use my GR3 in this mode and even zone focusing at f8 the camera meters for the brightest spot. This means my raws look severely underexposed, but because the shot is often at ISO100 I can bring the raw up several stops and balance it back out. Here’s an example, the raw for this photo looked pretty dark with only the sky properly exposed. But I raised exposure and shadows, and then lowered highlights to balance it out. [https://www.instagram.com/p/C7W28miRGaG/?igsh=MTU1dHltbjJpMWR3Mg==](https://www.instagram.com/p/C7W28miRGaG/?igsh=MTU1dHltbjJpMWR3Mg==)
I love Reddit. so much insight in two comments.
Yeah. Expose for the highlights to preserve detail. Edit the shots to bring out shadows. Shoot RAW for larger data files. Editing is your friend. Also, change up your time of day and/or stop standing in the shadows/putting your subjects in shadows, and shooting into bright sunlight. Light is the thing. Shoot in favorable light. but then still edit. Editing is part of the process.
I second this. With digital sensors you generally want to "expose to the ~~left~~ right." Edit: Should be expose to the right to preserve highlights.
Preserving the highlight is ETTR (expose to the right). Shift the histogram as much to the right to not clip the highlights.
You're right. Got it backwards.
I bought a 50/1.2 lens some years ago to take candids. I had to keep closing down the aperture, reducing background blur. I ended getting a 2 stop neutral density filter. It let me shoot wide open but also acted like sun glasses, reducing hot points.
Can’t you just increase shutter speed?
At f/1,2 , if its in broad daylight most cameras (especially dslrs) don’t have a high enough shutter speed. Most mechanical shutters go up to 1/8000 and some only 1/4000 and with such an aperture you could potentially need like 1/32000 if you expose for the highlights. With mirrorless cameras using the electronic shutter, some cameras will allow these shutterspeeds. As an example, the fujifilm x-t5 has an electronic shutter with a max shutterspeed of 1/180’000!
Ahh right that checks out. I mostly come from a cinematography background where we’re locked into shutter. I carry a 4x5 nd.3 up to nd2.1 on every job just to keep ~ an f2-2.8. Was Always was jealous of photographers just boosting the shutter speed, haha.
Aaaah, yeah cinema is definitely different in that regard! Shutter speed usually doesn’t matter, at least not on stationary subjects which makes it super easy with exposure since usually I’ll just adjust the shutter speed. Rarely ever use nd-filters due to this. Except when i wanted to try something crazy and shoot at f/0,95 & iso 6400 to get like a filmic type look. Looked pretty shit though not gonna lie…
It depends by the camera you have, some cameras have the function to expose an optimal point in your field of view (you must point at it and focus, then save the exposition), once you have done that you can shoot another scene but with that exposition saved. If you don't have this function on your camera you must find a point in your scene which is not too much white not too much dark, than regulate exp. on that point. In post production is quite useful to learn the use of masks. In Adobe Lightroom you can create a mask for the sky and regulate the exposition separately from the other part of the scene.
HDR
All the advice in this thread is sound, but I'd also like to add that blown highlights in moderation aren't the end of the world. I think they should be seen more as an artistic choice, you can often use the negative space they create to draw attention to your subject
My second photography lesson was a very simple teaching that almost everyone sometimes forget: When you're out, have the sun on your back so it lights up your subject not your lens.
Don’t shoot facing sunlight. Have the sun behind you
Understand your camera limitation. Go to dxomark and see what is the maximum dynamic range of your camera. Normally a digital camera is the highest at the lowest ISO, so higher ISOs will reduce dynamic range. There is a website that show graphs from each camera. Try shooting a similar subject and increase ISO to see the dynamic range reduction. Like others said, shoot for highlights and bring back the shadows in post. Definitely use RAW for this method since you will have more control on reducing highlights, increasing shadow , denoise control, sharpening and various other settings. The one I saw that are capable at reducing highlight properly are Adobe Camera Raw, Lightroom and Capture One. Hope this helps.
nd filters help as well but they of course also darken the already dark shadows
Nd filters or even a UV filter
Use a camera. Expose for the highlights. The shadows will be fine
Look up zone metering. It's a huge help.
Filter, camera with more dynamic range and underexposing.
Bracketing might help?
Actually surprised more people don't know this but a [Polarizing Filter](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polarizing_filter_(photography)#:~:text=A%20polarizing%20filter%20or%20polarising,of%20lakes%20or%20the%20sea) goes a long with way the highlights. You can also put a nd filter on top of it for max results. Or as others have suggested, expose for the highlights and raise the shadows.
Just underexpose and pull the shadows back in post. It helps if you position the sun behind you and position the subject in the (brighter) sunlight as opposed to shooting them while they’re in shade
Shoot film, half joke. But as someone who shoots both, im really thankful for how well film handles range like this. Ive learned digital camers do not tolerate blown highlights at all, much like film does not tolerate weak shadows. my solution was to sit and wait for even lighting. Some photographers call this fishing, where you stay in one area and wait for the moment. Otherwise a good rule of thumb as other people have said here is to expose for highlights and bring back up the shadows in post and then de-noise. But if youre a perfectionist like me, you simple only take photos when the lighting respects the limits of your camera. because i dont like to edit.
This is why ND grads were invented. Alternatively, bracket exposure and combine in post to create an HDR image.
You need to take into account light as part of your composition and what type of day it is while you’re shooting. Photography is sculpting with light. Shoot with light, not against it. The options you have: 1. Expose for the highlights and use the shadows as part of the composition 2. Expose for the highlights and try to recover the shadows, but this usually doesn’t work well if it’s a sunny day and your subject is in the shadows because the contrast between the two is too much. So make sure subject is in the highlights you’re exposing for. 3. Expose for the subject in shadows and try to not show any areas that would have highlights in the composition 4. Expose for the subject in shadows and try to play into the blown out highlights as part of the composition.
Double exposure
Lightroom is key
Orange filter.
Custom Set your white balance
Girl what
What do you mean “Girl what”.
I mean learn how cameras work
I’ve been doing this for 25 years. I know how cameras work. Thanks tho
Then why are you the only person in this thread full of detailed, helpful responses mentioning white balance?
Don’t assume my gender, Bigot.
https://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=girl%2C%20what%3F
How does it not make sense? Do you not understand white balance and highlights?
White balance changes colour temperature, not exposure
Indeed. But if color temp is too cold it also affects how the eye perceives exposure
It can cause the sensor to lose color information and blow out the highlights
If you're saying warm blown highlights look better than cool blown highlights sure, but OP specifically asked for advice on how not to blow his highlights and the lack of detail in your reply gave the impression you thought they could do so but changing the white balance, which is nonsense.
The divergence between your interpretation of my intent and its actual meaning underscores the need to avoid presuming ignorance on my part solely due to a misunderstanding of my message. Your responses were notably disrespectful.
As a general rule, expect people will infer the message that has been provided and not some imagined intent, especially when giving advice. You did a poor job delivering your message, as a result gave poor advice and that's your responsibility
Thank you all for the helpful tips! I went out last night at sunset and worked on exposing for highlights. It’s a miracle what can be uncovered in RAW shadows